Shady3275

I Would like to hear your feed back on the losi RTR after you have some time to get it up and going. The last rc I had was a losi XXX-NT RTR and I was satisfied with it. Never really did any upgrades, just ran it stock and replaced parts if they broke. I am debating between the LOSI RTR vs. Serpent RTR. It's a little bit cheaper and has the novarossi engine. Let me know your thoughts on the dynamite engine in the losi, as well as the molded turn buckles, thought it was odd that the nitro buggy and truggy RTR have molded turn buckles that look like they might not be adjustable. Whereas the rtr electric buggy has the traditional turnbuckles

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

I haven't heard much in the terms of bad experiences with the Dynamite motors but I'll definitely let you know. I would go with the Losi RTR, especially if you plan on going racing. Thats what they're marketing it as, ready to go racing and upgrade as you go which is why I chose it.

As for the turnbuckles, if a RTR has molded turnbuckles, be sure to get the upgrade added to your cart the same time you get the rtr.

Shady3275

I Would like to hear your feed back on the losi RTR after you have some time to get it up and going. The last rc I had was a losi XXX-NT RTR and I was satisfied with it. Never really did any upgrades, just ran it stock and replaced parts if they broke. I am debating between the LOSI RTR vs. Serpent RTR. It's a little bit cheaper and has the novarossi engine. Let me know your thoughts on the dynamite engine in the losi, as well as the molded turn buckles, thought it was odd that the nitro buggy and truggy RTR have molded turn buckles that look like they might not be adjustable. Whereas the rtr electric buggy has the traditional turnbuckles

Shady3275

What is the recommended % of nitro fuel to run in these .21 engines. Is it 25% ?

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Im currently running VP 20/14% blend on my sons Kyosho .21.

The Losi RTR calls for 20%-30%

Stick with what the manufacturer recommends :-)

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

If I get some time I'll do a quick write up with pics and a in depth review once I get to run it after break in :-)

FnH

Hi, I am trying to decide whether to buy this buggy RTR, Kyosho' s buggy(also rtr) or a used 8ight 4.0 nitro kit for 550$( everything to run it included). I figured out that I needed some extra stuff for the kit though, such as a starter box, a nitro starter kit and fuel. That boosted the overall cost of the used kit up to 650$-700$. I found both RTRs at 540$ each online. I am really lost as I am newbie and this would be my first racing car to get some action at my local track.( I has aome experience with an e-truggy that wasn't made for racing and that clearly didn't cut it.Thanks in advance

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

updated my original post. Started the write-up/first impressions. Work in progress :-)

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

soo this is my first Losi, are the hex screws metric or us?

what sizes would you suggest getting? Nuts too?

Thanks.

token

SAE

.050” Hex Wrench
1.5mm Hex Wrench
1/16” Hex Wrench
5/64” Hex Wrench
3/32” Hex Wrench

http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...-Manual-ML.pdf

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

Why thank you

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

updated the main post with a Track Day update:

Track Day - 3/15/2017

Took it out to the track today along with my son and his buggy.

TO start off, for whatever reason, I cant set the brake bias on this. It just straight locks up, but I manged to make it lock up less than it was.(yes I used the threadable linkage, if i go any more the rod will back out of the hole!)
-With that said, our local track has quite a few hairpins so I was able to go in, tap the brakes while turning and pitch it sideways and square it up a lot better coming out of the corners in a very controllable slide.
-Settings out of the box, it has quite a bit of on power push, easily corrected by moving the front shocks to the inner mounting hole on the arm, however, still a slight hint of push. Might switch to my track preferred Blockades to see if that cures it.
-Lost a body clip on one of the crashes, but then found someone elses thats been sitting there for a while while turn marshalling lol.

Also noted, the car nose dives off jumps so you definitely have to stay on it a bit. Nothing is binding, and brakes arent engaging prematurely...I'll double check just in case...any cure for this?

Overall, not bad and definitely recommended. Handles very well out of the box. It is quick and fluid and handles the bumps and jumps like one should expect being built upon a race winning platform. Cant wait to slowly upgrade this with key components and more track time to see what it can really do. Definitely need to get the rust off after 10+years away lol

NitroJunky721

sweet

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

If the brakes are locking up completely, then thats why it is nosing down.

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

the brakes do not engage while at idle. Only when I apply the brakes do they go full lock.