gt racing

...and go up to 7 in the front diff.
ride height down i would try 27/28 tank full.

greenracing

iTrader: (1)

Anyone?

artur72

You're absolutely right about the oil in shocks, I do not know how I overlooked it. Outside temperature is 40C. Our track has a very good grip.
With standard setup do similarly. Look like that the steering servo are too fast and they make rear are unstable.

What you think to try with 10-10-3 diff oil.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

If your having corner entry issue you should try less droop in the rear. When you get on the brakes the rear end picks up, entering a corner with brakes n a high ass will make it extremely hard to control. One of my best tuning method for corner entry stability is my rear droop, you can keep that thing squatting n down where it's getting traction n no chassis roll.

artur72

Do you think to reduce droop with screw on rear arm. My Limiter/Droop: 112 mm.

Unfortunately I do not understand this:

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

He is referring to lowering the rear droop lol.

When you take droop out, it prevents the arms from going all the way down, keeping whichever end of the vehicle closer to the ground, which results in better handling.

cubandiaz

iTrader: (18)

Trying to tame my Nova Drake. Granted the motor is still breaking in somewhat. Clutch set up is all Carbon shoes with all Green springs. I have attempted to see if using Expo could smooth it out but really felt no difference. I have adjusted the low end speed needle many different ways only for it to not have enough to clear some jumps but it made the aggressive hit better yet the motor lagged. The car itself is great and handles well for me on my current setup. This is the final piece to my puzzle. I need help/suggestions regarding taming this hit, making it somewhat linear and drivable similar to an EBuggy. If this is the wrong section sorry.

dodgeguy

iTrader: (208)

Use the steel flywheel. That should help make a more linear feel.

cubandiaz

iTrader: (18)

Already running a steel flywheel. Any other ideas or suggestions?

BPro

iTrader: (13)

Use the smallest Venturi. run 9901 pipe and 41021 header. Use 25% nitro instead of 30%.

BPro

iTrader: (13)

Go up a tooth on the clutch bell

Tomcat8

Try softer clutch springs. 2x green/2x black

BlueStreakOne

iTrader: (1)

Re servo speed adjust the curve on your radio so it's less responsive at the beginning of the rotation.

kaptain crash

iTrader: (46)

Learn to "blip" the throttle and also use the overdrive front diff. if your back end keeps kicking out. It will be hard to get close to that "linear feeling" with a nitro engine unless you wanna run a 4-stroke. Some engines have a longer power band then others. One reason why some get their engines modded is to get more of that linear feeling..."power band". Nitro and electric are 2 different beasts. I have watched guy's that race with only 1/2 throttle "endpoint" set on their radios, they look so smooth on a flowing track. But a track with short run ups to big jumps you might need 3/4 endpoint set. Just something more you can try.

Matt Piva

iTrader: (25)

Few mod questions I have for any experts on the 8 3.0/4.0

I'm looking at upgrading a few things on my losi 8 3.0 closer to a 4.0 and also taking a few mods off for performance gain in flex and over all durability. I'm not sure what works, so this is why I'm posting it in the 4.0 thread hoping any of you drivers that made the jump can give me some feedback and information..

Mod parts I want to add and need advice if used by you.From most important to just an interest in trying, here they are.

Shocks
There are a few brands with after market pistons, some are aluminum (fioroni T. A. P.) some plastic (vrp gamechangers, competition suspension red and blue pistons) (Flashpoint brass pistons also) , what has been a good product in the losi shocks so far? I'm very interested in upgrading my 3.0 shocks.. I believe caps changed, I don't see caps changing much?

Mods
The new brakes and rotors, will they fit my 3.0 and are they much better?

The radio tray stiffener that attaches to the center diff is a must? Can it work with the aluminum center diff (bulkheads)? And also is the aluminum tri horn able to use the stiffener attachment to the center diff? I'm really interested in the tri horn if it's better.

I have aluminum spindles but plastic carriers, is this better for flex? I think only the spindles broke at the turnbuckle attachment correct?

Losi made new aluminum servo saver bellcranks TLR341007 will this eliminate some steering slop? Does this part add unnecessary rigid feeling to buggy?

Fioroni makes light weight aluminum diff cases, at a small increase on oil does it make a difference? I'm really interested in this upgrade..

The overdrive gears for front diff?

Flex
The rear uprights (hubs) I'm thinking of going back to plastic, who's with me on feeling the aluminum are a little rigid?

The aluminum center diff mount, it was really expensive but I notice the bottom brake cam catches, and I have a lot of high velocity wobble on the box coming from the center diff, maybe to much brake gap but I really think it's from brake cams or in general the wobble I can feel with my finger when rocking it from the cups, is it normal to have a little slop or should the diff be solid when bolted up? I'm thinking of going to stock simply because I notice an increase in clutch bearing failure and a big increase in my clutch bell getting notchy and worn out faster, maybe from the added rigitidity from the aluminum center diff mount makes on throttle chew up the gears.

The new 4.0 has upgraded universals like a kyosho, are the better in the front then the old style 2.0 universals? Right now I have dog bones everywhere exept the front but don't no if the new ones for the 4.0 will work??

These are alot of questions, I plan on posting in 3.0/4.0 threads so I can pull the trigger and get what's best. I love tuning on the 8s they have always responded well to upgrades.