Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road
Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy >

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy

    Hide Wikipost
Old 11-11-2016, 07:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Finally , its launched : [URL=http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dnx8/[/URL]

Part# TD102040.

As more information becomes available, i'll update the first 2 posts of this thread. Please PM me if you find more info you'd like to put on here. Cheers

Link to manual.

Link to setup sheet.

Blog from Travis 3/27/2015 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/tag/travis-amezcua/

Build info : [url=http://www.tdbuild.info[/url]

Get Support: [url=http://www.tdsupport.info[/url]

FEATURES
*Chassis: Hard anodized 7075 T6 aluminum, 0.12" (3mm) thick
*Drive: Four wheel
*Shocks: 16mm Big Bore aluminum body with vented caps, and a choice of
constant volume and emulsion bodies
*Shock Towers: 0.20" (5mm) thick milled aluminum
*Suspension: Fully adjustable pivot ball with square hinge pin inserts
for more options for front end mods, galvanized components for
protection against oxygenation
*Differentials: Ultra lightweight bevel gear type with composite cross
shafts for increased acceleration and durability
*Fuel Tank: --oz (--cc)
*Clutch Bell: 13T steel
*Steering:
with adjustable Ackermann, Ackermann refers to the effect of the
the inner front wheel rotating faster than the outer front wheel
during turns
*Rear Body Mount: Floating type for increased body life
*Battery Box: Fully enclosed for maximum protection
*Body: Pretrimmed polycarbonate with cab-forward design
*Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front
suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the
chassis, Active Caster Inserts for quick changes
*Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the
tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle

Vehicle;
*Length: 20.9" (522mm)
*Width: 12.1" (307mm)
*Height: 7.3" (186mm)
*Wheelbase: 12.7-12.9" (322 - 328mm)
*Racing Weight: 7lbs 8oz (3.4kg)









Essentials

a) IMPORTANT: Use wash like MUGE0161 "Mugen FRONT TRACK WIDTH ADJUSTMENT SPACER) on lower Pivot balls to prevent premature failure.

Dimensions of washer: 6mm inner and 14mm outer so any equivalent brand will work.


Recommendations

a) Use Alum Servo Arm

TD340122 25T
TD340123 24T
TD340124 23T

or Hot Bodies 67168 24T, 67169 25T or 67167 23T


b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.



c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper

The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert.
The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.



d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver

e) Shock Build options

For Emulsion build see this post:
[url=http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html[/url]
Bladders are TD330589


After Market Upgrade


RPM Wing Mount [url=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/chassis-accessories/arrma-durango-wing-mounts/[/url]

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-19-2015, 05:30 PM
  #91  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (60)
 
rcmania74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: st louis
Posts: 2,897
Trader Rating: 60 (98%+)
Default

WITHOUT it that pin would also ride on the oring and tear it and then it would leak too.
rcmania74 is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 05:45 PM
  #92  
Tech Lord
Thread Starter
iTrader: (360)
 
tobamiester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tea drinking Limmey in NJ
Posts: 12,389
Trader Rating: 360 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rcmania74
WITHOUT it that pin would also ride on the oring and tear it and then it would leak too.
That was kinda my gut feeling also. I left mine in. Just finished the build. Driveline is tight. But will likely free up.

Pleased to see a pretty standard 34mm flywheel.

Had to re-seat the lower brake cam as the pre-built version touched the center spur.

Had issues with one of my front shock rods also.

Overall pretty nice build.
tobamiester is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 06:12 PM
  #93  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (60)
 
rcmania74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: st louis
Posts: 2,897
Trader Rating: 60 (98%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tobamiester
That was kinda my gut feeling also. I left mine in. Just finished the build. Driveline is tight. But will likely free up.

Pleased to see a pretty standard 34mm flywheel.

Had to re-seat the lower brake cam as the pre-built version touched the center spur.



Had issues with one of my front shock rods also.

Overall pretty nice build.
Yeah had to adjust my brake cam lever too... yeah im sitting here messing with the diffs right now...that oring gets all twisted around with that shim out. .. a diff always loosens up not tighten up so i don't know what they are doing lol
rcmania74 is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 09:31 PM
  #94  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

my front end pinion gear feels like it has a snag in it?
I left my front Diff out untill i was done with the entire buggy. the rear pinion and Diff
(though tight because new) rotates with Zero issues. But my front just doesn't feel right?
half of a rotation.... fine
other half of the rotation catch & slight snag...
any help here??
any one else experiance this?
H83R is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 09:34 PM
  #95  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

just to put this out there, i double checked to make sure the crown gear was seated straight, even, & on tight..

And still the problem persist
H83R is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 09:44 PM
  #96  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
 
rpboggs1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: York, PA
Posts: 404
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by H83R
just to put this out there, i double checked to make sure the crown gear was seated straight, even, & on tight..

And still the problem persist
If the 4 diff screws are slightly loose, does it spin completely free? I should say the 4 screws on the actual diff... Not the 4 screws to remove the diff from the bulkhead. I used to have that problem on my TLRs if I over tightened the diff screws then it would warp the housing and cause a bind in one spot.
rpboggs1 is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 09:51 PM
  #97  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by rpboggs1
If the 4 diff screws are slightly loose, does it spin completely free? I should say the 4 screws on the actual diff... Not the 4 screws to remove the diff from the bulkhead. I used to have that problem on my TLRs if I over tightened the diff screws then it would warp the housing and cause a bind in one spot.
To be perfectly honest, I did not try that approach.
I have the 4 Actual diff screws "snug" tight. just as i have them on the center diff and the rear diff.
But since the DNX8 does have easy access to the diffs, I'll go try that...lol
But, i am kinda pissy now... I let my better judgement get the best of me..
I was going to leave the 2 Large shims in the center diff. Because something like that has Always free'ed up and gotten looser with wear. not tighter..
So....
instead of draing the diff for the 2nd time. I'm just going to let it ride and see how it does without the 2 large shims.
I've already ordered a complete center diff set, just out of habbit anyways...lol
H83R is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 11:03 PM
  #98  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy-image.jpg

H83R is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 11:05 PM
  #99  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy-image.jpg

H83R is offline  
Old 04-19-2015, 11:06 PM
  #100  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy-image.jpg

Lipo Switch fits nice and snug right there
H83R is offline  
Old 04-20-2015, 03:58 AM
  #101  
Tech Rookie
 
crazyfonseca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Coimbra
Posts: 17
Default

You can put 2 gaskets just to make sure all plays freely and mantain those shims.
As the problems of leak or others, zero so far on all my diffs.

Originally Posted by rcmania74
WITHOUT it that pin would also ride on the oring and tear it and then it would leak too.
crazyfonseca is offline  
Old 04-20-2015, 04:07 AM
  #102  
Tech Rookie
 
crazyfonseca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Coimbra
Posts: 17
Default

Wanna share with you guys a easy modification I've done for all the guys that prefer a KO type switch. Here are some photos:


crazyfonseca is offline  
Old 04-20-2015, 11:48 AM
  #103  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by crazyfonseca
Wanna share with you guys a easy modification I've done for all the guys that prefer a KO type switch. Here are some photos:


Like I siad in messenger Carlos.. Just genius man..
Now I feel bad for getting the Answer RC Lipo switch.
I think I might just get another KO switch, and copy you on this one...
On a couple side notes though:
I'm not happy with the spring cups for the front and rear shocks, there is too much play & they don't hold snugly...
So, I'm going to be looking to replace those. (just for me)
Also, Kinda sucks I couldn't get my Light Blue Kyosho springs to fit either front or rear. So I'm using the Kit springs.
I am using the IMBUE V2 Brass pistons in my shocks
Imbue V2 Brass pistons 16mm 3.4 mounting hole.
I used AE Slime for the O-Rings, & Losi 35wt Front Losi 32.5wt rear
SO BUTTERY SMOOTH!!!!!!!!!!!
The kit went together with super ease, other than a slight hickup with the front Diff and pinion gear. All went great...
H83R is offline  
Old 04-20-2015, 12:25 PM
  #104  
JCG
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 51
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default DNX8

I ran about 10 tanks on DNX8 yesterday and was pretty pleased with the results.
As far as pinions feeling notchy make sure when you build all the diffs the conicals are completely flush to the diff case so that the conical treks straight on the pinion.
The drivetrain is super free no complaints just more testing.
JCG is offline  
Old 04-21-2015, 05:21 PM
  #105  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (24)
 
H83R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Queen Creek, Az.
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy-image.jpg
H83R is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.