Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy
11-11-2016, 07:23 AM - Wikipost
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Finally , its launched : [URL=http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dnx8/[/URL]
Part# TD102040. As more information becomes available, i'll update the first 2 posts of this thread. Please PM me if you find more info you'd like to put on here. Cheers Link to manual. Link to setup sheet. Blog from Travis 3/27/2015 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/tag/travis-amezcua/ Build info : [url=http://www.tdbuild.info[/url] Get Support: [url=http://www.tdsupport.info[/url] FEATURES *Chassis: Hard anodized 7075 T6 aluminum, 0.12" (3mm) thick *Drive: Four wheel *Shocks: 16mm Big Bore aluminum body with vented caps, and a choice of constant volume and emulsion bodies *Shock Towers: 0.20" (5mm) thick milled aluminum *Suspension: Fully adjustable pivot ball with square hinge pin inserts for more options for front end mods, galvanized components for protection against oxygenation *Differentials: Ultra lightweight bevel gear type with composite cross shafts for increased acceleration and durability *Fuel Tank: --oz (--cc) *Clutch Bell: 13T steel *Steering: with adjustable Ackermann, Ackermann refers to the effect of the the inner front wheel rotating faster than the outer front wheel during turns *Rear Body Mount: Floating type for increased body life *Battery Box: Fully enclosed for maximum protection *Body: Pretrimmed polycarbonate with cab-forward design *Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the chassis, Active Caster Inserts for quick changes *Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle Vehicle; *Length: 20.9" (522mm) *Width: 12.1" (307mm) *Height: 7.3" (186mm) *Wheelbase: 12.7-12.9" (322 - 328mm) *Racing Weight: 7lbs 8oz (3.4kg)       Essentials a) IMPORTANT: Use wash like MUGE0161 "Mugen FRONT TRACK WIDTH ADJUSTMENT SPACER) on lower Pivot balls to prevent premature failure. Dimensions of washer: 6mm inner and 14mm outer so any equivalent brand will work. Recommendations a) Use Alum Servo Arm TD340122 25T TD340123 24T TD340124 23T or Hot Bodies 67168 24T, 67169 25T or 67167 23T b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.  c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert. The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.  d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver e) Shock Build options For Emulsion build see this post: [url=http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html[/url] Bladders are TD330589 After Market Upgrade RPM Wing Mount [url=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/chassis-accessories/arrma-durango-wing-mounts/[/url] 
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04-16-2015, 02:29 PM
#76
Hi there guys,
Hope you are enjoying your cars!
I'm driving the car already for a long time and also have tested many things since I'm a pilot run user.
And because of that, wanna share some tips we've found:
a) Remove the 2 large shims from the centre diff to help make the diff mesh free’er and more reliable.
b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.
c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper
d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver
Car really works well as the base setup, but I found for easy driving that a thicker oil in the front diff might help. So, instead of 5k, 7k, 3k (front/center/rear) try 7k or 10k, 5k, 3k.
Hope you are enjoying your cars!
I'm driving the car already for a long time and also have tested many things since I'm a pilot run user.
And because of that, wanna share some tips we've found:
a) Remove the 2 large shims from the centre diff to help make the diff mesh free’er and more reliable.
b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.
c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper
d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver
Car really works well as the base setup, but I found for easy driving that a thicker oil in the front diff might help. So, instead of 5k, 7k, 3k (front/center/rear) try 7k or 10k, 5k, 3k.
04-16-2015, 05:21 PM
#77
Tech Regular
Aside from letter "B", do these build tips directly translate to the DEX8 too? Mainly wondering about the center diff shims. Although I've had the DEX for a couple of days, I've only had a chance to look at all the pretty parts. Hoping to start putting them together tonight.
04-17-2015, 02:57 AM
#78
04-17-2015, 02:16 PM
#79
I know i should be running the stock set up and gauge my performance from there.
but i'm not...lol
Going to be running Imbue V2 8 hole pistons, Novarossi 13T vented clutch bell, Reds Quattro Clutch, & Kyosho light blue springs front and rear. I will start out trying 7-5-4 for the diffs.
since i'm in arizona and the weather is warmer here..
but i'm not...lol
Going to be running Imbue V2 8 hole pistons, Novarossi 13T vented clutch bell, Reds Quattro Clutch, & Kyosho light blue springs front and rear. I will start out trying 7-5-4 for the diffs.
since i'm in arizona and the weather is warmer here..
04-17-2015, 02:28 PM
#80
I've added your comments to post #2 on this thread. Thankyou!
I'll try and keep ahead of constructive realworld experiences with this car that people post here. Lets make this a great thread
If you want me to update post 1 or 2, please PM me, I'd be happy to add stuff.
Hoping to build mine this weekend
I'll try and keep ahead of constructive realworld experiences with this car that people post here. Lets make this a great thread
If you want me to update post 1 or 2, please PM me, I'd be happy to add stuff.
Hoping to build mine this weekend
04-17-2015, 05:04 PM
#81
Tech Regular
Hi Guys, I have been running the car for a while now as i am also a pilot run user!
Carlos put up a lot of good tips/experiences with the car already.
I found while running the car that i preferred the durango blue shock o-rings the best for the smoothest shock action possible, the purple o-rings are also a good option that will last a little longer but wont be as smooth as the blue (Blue - TD330611 or Purple - TD330612), When i put the o-rings in the shocks i use some shock o-ring grease to make them even smoother.
When it comes to bleeding the shock i do this with the bladder in the cap and screw it on gently (when you have the amount of rebound set) to let the air and excess oil out! The best ways that i have found to run the caps is with the foam and with out the screw or my personal favourite is no foam and with the screw, but i would recommend trying both.
Another very useful setup option that i have found is the active caster, adding more active caster gives more off power and on power steering, i like to run 3 dots down!
Any questions feel free to ask!
Aaron
Carlos put up a lot of good tips/experiences with the car already.
I found while running the car that i preferred the durango blue shock o-rings the best for the smoothest shock action possible, the purple o-rings are also a good option that will last a little longer but wont be as smooth as the blue (Blue - TD330611 or Purple - TD330612), When i put the o-rings in the shocks i use some shock o-ring grease to make them even smoother.
When it comes to bleeding the shock i do this with the bladder in the cap and screw it on gently (when you have the amount of rebound set) to let the air and excess oil out! The best ways that i have found to run the caps is with the foam and with out the screw or my personal favourite is no foam and with the screw, but i would recommend trying both.
Another very useful setup option that i have found is the active caster, adding more active caster gives more off power and on power steering, i like to run 3 dots down!
Any questions feel free to ask!
Aaron
04-17-2015, 05:12 PM
#82
Hi Guys, I have been running the car for a while now as i am also a pilot run user!
Carlos put up a lot of good tips/experiences with the car already.
I found while running the car that i preferred the durango blue shock o-rings the best for the smoothest shock action possible, the purple o-rings are also a good option that will last a little longer but wont be as smooth as the blue (Blue - TD330611 or Purple - TD330612), When i put the o-rings in the shocks i use some shock o-ring grease to make them even smoother.
When it comes to bleeding the shock i do this with the bladder in the cap and screw it on gently (when you have the amount of rebound set) to let the air and excess oil out! The best ways that i have found to run the caps is with the foam and with out the screw or my personal favourite is no foam and with the screw, but i would recommend trying both.
Another very useful setup option that i have found is the active caster, adding more active caster gives more off power and on power steering, i like to run 3 dots down!
Any questions feel free to ask!
Aaron
Carlos put up a lot of good tips/experiences with the car already.
I found while running the car that i preferred the durango blue shock o-rings the best for the smoothest shock action possible, the purple o-rings are also a good option that will last a little longer but wont be as smooth as the blue (Blue - TD330611 or Purple - TD330612), When i put the o-rings in the shocks i use some shock o-ring grease to make them even smoother.
When it comes to bleeding the shock i do this with the bladder in the cap and screw it on gently (when you have the amount of rebound set) to let the air and excess oil out! The best ways that i have found to run the caps is with the foam and with out the screw or my personal favourite is no foam and with the screw, but i would recommend trying both.
Another very useful setup option that i have found is the active caster, adding more active caster gives more off power and on power steering, i like to run 3 dots down!
Any questions feel free to ask!
Aaron
cool...
04-17-2015, 09:49 PM
#83
Question about the rear toe in section of this setup help guide...
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...ips%20Card.pdf
The hinge pin hole is opposite the bar. So if the front bar is in and the rear bar out according to the chart, you should have 5 degrees of rear toe... BUT the holes would be actually out on the front and in on the rear in that scenario. Is the chart right or is it backwards (and should be referencing the hole position as opposed to the bar position)?
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...ips%20Card.pdf
The hinge pin hole is opposite the bar. So if the front bar is in and the rear bar out according to the chart, you should have 5 degrees of rear toe... BUT the holes would be actually out on the front and in on the rear in that scenario. Is the chart right or is it backwards (and should be referencing the hole position as opposed to the bar position)?
04-18-2015, 03:43 PM
#84
Tech Regular
Question about the rear toe in section of this setup help guide...
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...ips%20Card.pdf
The hinge pin hole is opposite the bar. So if the front bar is in and the rear bar out according to the chart, you should have 5 degrees of rear toe... BUT the holes would be actually out on the front and in on the rear in that scenario. Is the chart right or is it backwards (and should be referencing the hole position as opposed to the bar position)?
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/setu...ips%20Card.pdf
The hinge pin hole is opposite the bar. So if the front bar is in and the rear bar out according to the chart, you should have 5 degrees of rear toe... BUT the holes would be actually out on the front and in on the rear in that scenario. Is the chart right or is it backwards (and should be referencing the hole position as opposed to the bar position)?
04-18-2015, 07:12 PM
#86
Hint & Tips
From crazyfonseca:
a) Remove the 2 large shims from the centre diff to help make the diff mesh free’er and more relia
b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.
c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper
d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver
e) Car really works well as the base setup, but I found for easy driving that a thicker oil in the front diff might help. So, instead of 5k, 7k, 3k (front/center/rear) try 7k or 10k, 5k, 3k.
From crazyfonseca:
a) Remove the 2 large shims from the centre diff to help make the diff mesh free’er and more relia
b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.
c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper
d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver
e) Car really works well as the base setup, but I found for easy driving that a thicker oil in the front diff might help. So, instead of 5k, 7k, 3k (front/center/rear) try 7k or 10k, 5k, 3k.
04-19-2015, 02:45 PM
#88
Tech Regular
more on power steering and makes the car feel easier to drive but you will lose of power steering.
I would recommend to take them out, they make the diff feel tighter after a few runs!
I would recommend to take them out, they make the diff feel tighter after a few runs!
04-19-2015, 05:19 PM
#90
I put a post on the ebuggy thread on taking that shim out...i think thats bad advice. .that "shim" pushes the oring into the recess and WITHOUT it that pin would also ride on that oring and tear it...other cars have this same set up..id not recommend taking those out.