Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy
11-11-2016, 07:23 AM - Wikipost
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Finally , its launched : [URL=http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dnx8/[/URL]
Part# TD102040. As more information becomes available, i'll update the first 2 posts of this thread. Please PM me if you find more info you'd like to put on here. Cheers Link to manual. Link to setup sheet. Blog from Travis 3/27/2015 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/tag/travis-amezcua/ Build info : [url=http://www.tdbuild.info[/url] Get Support: [url=http://www.tdsupport.info[/url] FEATURES *Chassis: Hard anodized 7075 T6 aluminum, 0.12" (3mm) thick *Drive: Four wheel *Shocks: 16mm Big Bore aluminum body with vented caps, and a choice of constant volume and emulsion bodies *Shock Towers: 0.20" (5mm) thick milled aluminum *Suspension: Fully adjustable pivot ball with square hinge pin inserts for more options for front end mods, galvanized components for protection against oxygenation *Differentials: Ultra lightweight bevel gear type with composite cross shafts for increased acceleration and durability *Fuel Tank: --oz (--cc) *Clutch Bell: 13T steel *Steering: with adjustable Ackermann, Ackermann refers to the effect of the the inner front wheel rotating faster than the outer front wheel during turns *Rear Body Mount: Floating type for increased body life *Battery Box: Fully enclosed for maximum protection *Body: Pretrimmed polycarbonate with cab-forward design *Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the chassis, Active Caster Inserts for quick changes *Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle Vehicle; *Length: 20.9" (522mm) *Width: 12.1" (307mm) *Height: 7.3" (186mm) *Wheelbase: 12.7-12.9" (322 - 328mm) *Racing Weight: 7lbs 8oz (3.4kg)       Essentials a) IMPORTANT: Use wash like MUGE0161 "Mugen FRONT TRACK WIDTH ADJUSTMENT SPACER) on lower Pivot balls to prevent premature failure. Dimensions of washer: 6mm inner and 14mm outer so any equivalent brand will work. Recommendations a) Use Alum Servo Arm TD340122 25T TD340123 24T TD340124 23T or Hot Bodies 67168 24T, 67169 25T or 67167 23T b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.  c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert. The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.  d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver e) Shock Build options For Emulsion build see this post: [url=http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html[/url] Bladders are TD330589 After Market Upgrade RPM Wing Mount [url=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/chassis-accessories/arrma-durango-wing-mounts/[/url] 
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01-12-2017, 09:58 PM
#811
[QUOTE=rpboggs1;14799830]And make sure to use a cross hatch pattern when tightening the screws and try to screw them down evenly so the spur/ring gear stays level the whole time... otherwise it will tilt the spur/ring gear slightly and you can't get it flat by cranking the rest of the screws down. It has happened to me more than I care to admit. Haha.[/QUOTE
This is very important if you didn't do this be sure to do it as described also you can try double up on gaskets that may help too, good luck and let us know how you go with it...
This is very important if you didn't do this be sure to do it as described also you can try double up on gaskets that may help too, good luck and let us know how you go with it...
01-14-2017, 08:03 PM
#812
Tech Apprentice
To answer your question about to all kits require this work, no. But sometimes they do. I've had it happen on 1/10 and 1/8 Associated. I've had 1/8 Redcats that required nothing. Hit or miss really. It's always smart to check the mating surfaces and lightly scuff them to remove any burrs or high spots. It's not exact science so any sandpaper between 120-320 will do. Obviously take more care with 120.A trick I use on stubborn seals is to apply a hair thin coat of thick grease to both sides of the gasket. Hair thin! Then screw it together like the other guys said. Bring each screw down a few turns until barely snug. Then tighten by half turns in A Star pattern until tight. They don't need to be pop the veins in your hand tight either. The gasket, unless compressed too much by over tightening the screws, will fill in the minor imperfections that remain, resulting in a dry diff. It's one of those things you just "get" by doing a bunch of them. What's really cool is that all of this applies to full size gaskets as well. So by getting it right, youre adding automotive knowledge as well! 
lol
lol
Last edited by Phantom56; 01-14-2017 at 09:22 PM.
01-14-2017, 09:59 PM
#813
Tech Initiate
Thanks again for the responses guys. I did everything that has been mentioned the first time I rebuilt the diffs except sand/scuff the diff case. They looked flat and felt true but may not have been. As I said before, all three brand new diffs leaked. They only did that after I was manually twisting the outdrives in opposite directions back and forth very fast to check resistance differences between the different silicone weights I was using. Also, as they sat over night, the oil that leaked between the diff housing and gear was gone. I think I must have a vacuum leak. It sucks in air as I'm twisting the outdrives pushing the oil out any spot not perfectly sealed. As the air recedes it sucks the silicone back in. I think the problem is the set screw. Looking at Tower it looks like the 408 diff housing doesn't have the set screw. Will that housing work on the DNX8 diff?
01-15-2017, 04:09 AM
#814
Thanks again for the responses guys. I did everything that has been mentioned the first time I rebuilt the diffs except sand/scuff the diff case. They looked flat and felt true but may not have been. As I said before, all three brand new diffs leaked. They only did that after I was manually twisting the outdrives in opposite directions back and forth very fast to check resistance differences between the different silicone weights I was using. Also, as they sat over night, the oil that leaked between the diff housing and gear was gone. I think I must have a vacuum leak. It sucks in air as I'm twisting the outdrives pushing the oil out any spot not perfectly sealed. As the air recedes it sucks the silicone back in. I think the problem is the set screw. Looking at Tower it looks like the 408 diff housing doesn't have the set screw. Will that housing work on the DNX8 diff?
If you are worried about the set screw, this may be a PITA, but take them apart, clean them out really good, use Nitro Motor spray to clean them out, and also the set screw hole. Let this all dry out, and ensure no silicone is left in the diff.
Then degrease the set screw, you can apply a tiny bit of Gasket / RTV sealant to the threads, you just have to coat inside the lands. let that screw sit for about 10 minutes to flash over. Then install it into the Diff Housing.
Let it dry per the cure time on the tube. Then rebuild your diff, and see if that helps.
01-20-2017, 08:15 PM
#815
Tech Initiate
So the 408 diff housings came in today. They look like they will fit. They are also made in Taiwan instead of China and appear to be higher quality than the DNX8 housings. The gasket surface on the housing is much smoother and flatter. No set screw either.
Last edited by Magnus75; 01-21-2017 at 05:17 AM.
01-26-2017, 08:29 AM
#816
Tech Apprentice
why dnx8 is so cheap at amain? new platform , or perhaps TD is closing 1/8 division?
01-31-2017, 01:55 PM
#822
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
Hi, I have a brand new OS MAX XZB blue Head version 2 setting on the motor mounts in my DNX8. The rear right lug of the engine is rubbing against the rear drive shaft. I was wondering if there is enough adjustment in the center Diff mount to move the drive shaft away from the motor mount? I dont really want to grind down on the lug to get clearence from the drive shaft! any suggestions would be very helpful Thanks Michael
01-31-2017, 07:17 PM
#823
Gona have to shave it off the new os engines come shaved off right rear tab! It don't take much!
02-01-2017, 05:18 AM
#825
Do you have a belt sander ? It does a much cleaner looking job just buzz corner down!!