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Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy

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Old 11-11-2016, 07:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Durango DNX8 1/8th Nitro Buggy
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Last edit by: tobamiester
Finally , its launched : [URL=http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dnx8/[/URL]

Part# TD102040.

As more information becomes available, i'll update the first 2 posts of this thread. Please PM me if you find more info you'd like to put on here. Cheers

Link to manual.

Link to setup sheet.

Blog from Travis 3/27/2015 http://www.team-durango.com/blog/tag/travis-amezcua/

Build info : [url=http://www.tdbuild.info[/url]

Get Support: [url=http://www.tdsupport.info[/url]

FEATURES
*Chassis: Hard anodized 7075 T6 aluminum, 0.12" (3mm) thick
*Drive: Four wheel
*Shocks: 16mm Big Bore aluminum body with vented caps, and a choice of
constant volume and emulsion bodies
*Shock Towers: 0.20" (5mm) thick milled aluminum
*Suspension: Fully adjustable pivot ball with square hinge pin inserts
for more options for front end mods, galvanized components for
protection against oxygenation
*Differentials: Ultra lightweight bevel gear type with composite cross
shafts for increased acceleration and durability
*Fuel Tank: --oz (--cc)
*Clutch Bell: 13T steel
*Steering:
with adjustable Ackermann, Ackermann refers to the effect of the
the inner front wheel rotating faster than the outer front wheel
during turns
*Rear Body Mount: Floating type for increased body life
*Battery Box: Fully enclosed for maximum protection
*Body: Pretrimmed polycarbonate with cab-forward design
*Caster: Adjustable, caster/toe-in refers to the angle of the front
suspension when viewed from the side of the car in relation to the
chassis, Active Caster Inserts for quick changes
*Camber: Adjustable, camber refers to the angle of the tops of the
tires from vertical when viewed from front or behind vehicle

Vehicle;
*Length: 20.9" (522mm)
*Width: 12.1" (307mm)
*Height: 7.3" (186mm)
*Wheelbase: 12.7-12.9" (322 - 328mm)
*Racing Weight: 7lbs 8oz (3.4kg)









Essentials

a) IMPORTANT: Use wash like MUGE0161 "Mugen FRONT TRACK WIDTH ADJUSTMENT SPACER) on lower Pivot balls to prevent premature failure.

Dimensions of washer: 6mm inner and 14mm outer so any equivalent brand will work.


Recommendations

a) Use Alum Servo Arm

TD340122 25T
TD340123 24T
TD340124 23T

or Hot Bodies 67168 24T, 67169 25T or 67167 23T


b) The tank lid seal can be adjusted with the screw in the centre. The tighter the screw the LESS the tank will seal. Screw-off 1 or 2 turns just make it perfect.



c) For the front bumper not touch the inserts, also have removed the boss inside the front bumper

The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert.
The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.



d) Also, glue the nut in the servo-saver

e) Shock Build options

For Emulsion build see this post:
[url=http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html[/url]
Bladders are TD330589


After Market Upgrade


RPM Wing Mount [url=http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/chassis-components/chassis-accessories/arrma-durango-wing-mounts/[/url]

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Old 01-09-2017, 07:58 PM
  #796  
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Well, I just got this kit in the mail. Absolute steal at that price. This is such a nice kit. I went through everything and it's 1st class quality. The last 8th scale buggy i put together (1/8 is not my thing) was the RC8.2e. This Durango kits quality makes that kit look like something made by Nikko.Even the packaging looks and feels high quality. It will be an absolute shame if this line gets cut. But if it does, I sure hope they discount the EBuggy and Truggy like they did this kit! Count me in.
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:53 PM
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Hi Alan check to see if you have every thing that was included in your kit. Mine was missing a plastic shock bushing for the front shocks. I got on line at Team Durango's website and got my part last week. So far I haven't found anything else missing but your right the quality is great. The manual is a little intriguing because its like putting together a Lego Set there are no writing instructions what so ever. Its all pictures that Ive seen.The nice things are that all of the assembles are assembled. I like you hope durango keeps making these kits. Michael
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:33 PM
  #798  
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Hey Michael, I didn't inventory the parts yet, just went through them. I noticed that they assembled certain assemblies. I've never seen that done before. Obviously I'll double check everything.

This kind of packaging and feel of quality is what I expect with a boutique brand. I've never dealt with X-ray but I'm told that's the way they are too.

Honestly, even if they cut these kits, the car will be viable for quite a long time regardless. Everything that I read about these new kits says that they are rock solid and handle surprisingly well. I absolutely love nitro so really looking forward to getting this kit going. I picked up one of the new 5 port SH. 21's, they've got a premium racing line out that people in Europe are using with great success along with Spektrum's new brushless servos and their 5.5ms Sr2000 Rx. Pretty solid setup so I'm expecting big things with it. Lol
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:08 PM
  #799  
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I have a brand new OS Max XZB 21 ver2 that I bought last year for my HN X3 sabre buggy. The x3 is a nice car with great potential but with the closing of OFNA last year it is very hard to find parts for it. The car I have is a roller that someone pieced together and I bought it second hand. ITs never seen the dirt and I need to upgrade it slightly.
Well my plans changed when i saw the DNX8 on sale at Amain on black Friday. I bought it so now I am trying to put it together and maybe run it some time this spring!
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:37 PM
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Default Leaking Diffs

I can't seem to keep the diffs from leaking between the housing and the gear. I've rebuilt them twice. The gaskets look good and the housings aren't cracked. There isn't excessive fluid in them.These are new diffs. Is this normal? In one of the diff housings, the set screw is stripped and leaking. What is this set screw for exactly. I know it bleeds fluid, but in what case would you need to do that.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:06 AM
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If all is ok, apparently it will be the set screw that leaks than
try to degrease the hole as much as possible, and use any sealant or glue to seal the screw, or plumbers wire twisted around it
The screw is only used to be able to extract the pin of the planetary gears for maintenance and greasing the outdrives every now and than

Last edited by speedy2; 01-12-2017 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:11 PM
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Default Diffs Leaking

Only one diff is leaking from the set screw. There is no way to get the outdrive pin out through that hole. The pin is recessed into the planetary gear. Also the set screw is only on one end anyway. All the diffs are mainly leaking at the gasket between the housing and the ring gear (spur on center). Anybody know how to stop that?
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnus75
Only one diff is leaking from the set screw. There is no way to get the outdrive pin out through that hole. The pin is recessed into the planetary gear. Also the set screw is only on one end anyway. All the diffs are mainly leaking at the gasket between the housing and the ring gear (spur on center). Anybody know how to stop that?
Speedy2 is talking about during disassembly, on some 1/8 diffs, the diff pins can be extracted via the set screw hole, or on some it allows them to recess in there so you can pull the out drive out, then the pin out. Used to be common practice. Yet you are right they wont fall out once assembled, just that this is a point of access for servicing.
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Old 01-12-2017, 01:31 PM
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yes one must lift the planetary gear out or let it fall out by knocking the diffhousing on a table
and than the pin appears to be taken out..
in half of the diffshousings the cavities are large enough to extract the pin without this screw

Last edited by speedy2; 01-13-2017 at 02:11 AM.
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Old 01-12-2017, 03:35 PM
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Are they warped or uneven? Did you give them a little bit of a sanding?
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Old 01-12-2017, 05:56 PM
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Default Diffs Leaking

Thanks for responding guys. I understand what speedy is saying now. That set screw is completely unnecessary though. Just another spot to leak imo. The housings look straight but may not be. What grit sandpaper? Do all kits require this?
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:47 PM
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try lightly sanding the cases with a 220 or softer grit paper. You could also just replace the gaskets you can get them from tower.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by stoney452
try lightly sanding the cases with a 220 or softer grit paper. You could also just replace the gaskets you can get them from tower.
Everything was new including the gaskets. I'll try sanding the housings on a flat surface and see how it goes.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Magnus75
Everything was new including the gaskets. I'll try sanding the housings on a flat surface and see how it goes.
And make sure to use a cross hatch pattern when tightening the screws and try to screw them down evenly so the spur/ring gear stays level the whole time... otherwise it will tilt the spur/ring gear slightly and you can't get it flat by cranking the rest of the screws down. It has happened to me more than I care to admit. Haha.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:48 PM
  #810  
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You can use that set screw to relief pressure and excessive oil from diff. Take set screw away when tightening diff screws and keep that hole upwards. After tightening four main screw put set srew back
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