Xray XB8
#1006
On another note, am I the only one to that thinks the hudy starter box is not designed to accomodate the xb8 flywheel, I had to shave a little of the starter box rear posts to back up the buggy enough for it to align at least 3/4 on the starterbox flywheel.
Anyone has some good ideas other than my solution?
Anyone has some good ideas other than my solution?
#1008
Remove the left rear post (closest to the starter wheel)
#1009
Just finished up my buggy this weekend, had an XB9 Bitty body sitting around since November and found it fit pretty decently. Disregard the shocks, used these on my xb9 and they felt great and were same length as the Xray ones so i just decided to use them.
#1010
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...-Pin%20-%20Set
Hi.
Does this make sense if you read the text from the old 808 5 degrees kingpin steering blocks
Hi.
Does this make sense if you read the text from the old 808 5 degrees kingpin steering blocks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ml#post9733715
Now on the new XB8, they did a great job and figured out a way to make them work...
#1014
#1015
Marcus, You're killing me dude!
The stock shocks are really good!
The stock shocks are really good!
#1017
#1018
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
I ran the 10* kingpin blocks this yesterday. Loved the way the car handles with them instead of the 14s. My car was dialed all weekend (ran both Sat and Sun), but blew up TWO Savox HV servos on Saturday, and my motor problems continue. Narrowed it down to a leaking front bearing, so a replacement is in the mail.
Car ran so good yesterday, I think I sold a couple kits.. lol
And I agree about the shocks, the new shocks are much smoother. But the old shocks aren't bad.
Another note, for anyone wondering about whether to upgrade or go with an XB8 vs XB9. My lap times have greatly improved from last season, and I can drive the XB8 much harder, on the throttle sooner out of the corner. Car steers accurately and effectively... I don't lose corner speed, or feel like I need to slow down as much as I did with the XB9. Yesterday I ran the second fastest lap during the qualifiers with my XB8 in a field of 38. Like I said above, I think I sold a couple kits yesterday (or maybe the car did that... )
Car ran so good yesterday, I think I sold a couple kits.. lol
And I agree about the shocks, the new shocks are much smoother. But the old shocks aren't bad.
Another note, for anyone wondering about whether to upgrade or go with an XB8 vs XB9. My lap times have greatly improved from last season, and I can drive the XB8 much harder, on the throttle sooner out of the corner. Car steers accurately and effectively... I don't lose corner speed, or feel like I need to slow down as much as I did with the XB9. Yesterday I ran the second fastest lap during the qualifiers with my XB8 in a field of 38. Like I said above, I think I sold a couple kits yesterday (or maybe the car did that... )
#1019
Tech Rookie
You'll be happy with the 10s. Ok so correct me if I'm wrong but so far as the lower hinge pins go when you lower them you are putting more weight above them which will let more weight transfer side to side. This would be raising your roll center, in doing so will add rear traction (good for loose tracks). For high bite conditions I've always raised the pins up as to put less weight above the pin itself. Lowering the inside of the a-arm to the chassis would be raising your roll center, more weight above the pin. Raising the inside of the a-arm would be lowering your roll center, less weight above the pin. I'm talking about the rear of the car and what I do in diff traction conditions. The front of the car is the same philosophy but I don't really play with it. I just run them down as to let more weight transfer side to side giving the car more steering.
#1020
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
You'll be happy with the 10s. Ok so correct me if I'm wrong but so far as the lower hinge pins go when you lower them you are putting more weight above them which will let more weight transfer side to side. This would be raising your roll center, in doing so will add rear traction (good for loose tracks). For high bite conditions I've always raised the pins up as to put less weight above the pin itself. Lowering the inside of the a-arm to the chassis would be raising your roll center, more weight above the pin. Raising the inside of the a-arm would be lowering your roll center, less weight above the pin. I'm talking about the rear of the car and what I do in diff traction conditions. The front of the car is the same philosophy but I don't really play with it. I just run them down as to let more weight transfer side to side giving the car more steering.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ll-center.html