djbxp

i need to get little more steering (initial turn in and while coming out of the turn). Don't want to change roll center or shocks because i have found them pretty much.

I'm running 5-5-3 diffs and thinking to go up to 6-6-3 to get some steering coming out of corner. I'm running also full caster from lower arms, upper arms and upper arm shims. I'm willing to remove also some caster to gain some steering.

What you suggest doing ? removing caster, 6-6-3 diffs or both? And removing caster how? from upper arms, lower arms or caster shims and why?

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

I would try 7-5-3 in the diffs.. that will give you good pull out of the corner.. and i would go less castor in front on the upper arm shims.. reason.. easy to change. changing lower, will also change track width..

so..
front diff.. 7k
and move upper arm forward.. closer to shock tower..

only 2 changes, to get the effect your looking for..

djbxp

Cool but 7-5-3 will take away some steering entering corner. that's why i am saying 6-6-3 to get more front pull without loosing steering entering corner.

Good point on caster.. i will remove some from upper arms and then from clips.

Thanks for your help.

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

i dont think it will take away as much as you think.. i went from 5 to 7, and love it.. made the car more stable.. and predictable..

djbxp

I did try 7-5-3 and 6-5-3 last month and car didn't turn in fast off throttle in corners. It was really tight track and low speed hairpins.

BigInJapan

iTrader: (18)

few things to try in no particular order
shorter wheelbase
stand front shock up
check end points for maximum steering throw
move front hinge pins inside
softer front springs
add more toe out at front
lower ride height at front
rear wing set low and forward
more camber at front
more droop/downtravel at rear - and less at front
softer anti-roll bar at front/harder at rear
lower the roll center at front - higher at rear

basically take away traction at rear until you have a good balance between steering and traction - you cant have both set to maximum

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Thats a great list. Here are a couple things to add, as if that's not enough

• Move the Ackerman plate all the way forward
• Move the pills on the front/ upper arm to the top position.
• Try a 10* plate or 6* if you are running 10

razo125

One more option to consider if the track is not rough, but low speed/tight. The first thing I think of is an active front diff. This was my "go to" option part in those conditions when I ran the xb9/xb808. There's no sacrifice in rear traction, the thing drove like a touring car.

djbxp

Thanks everyone for the great info!! Wheelbase seems to be good option.

What about the wheelbase adjustments being 3 different options ?
What would be the difference if shorter the car from rear hubs or rear arms?
What would be the difference if shorter front arms or rear arms?
What each option does?

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

If you shorten the wheelbase in the rear it puts the rear wheels closer to the engine and adds rear traction.

djbxp

No difference if do this from rear hub or arms ?

What about front ?

rick oxley

anyone??

RobinCH

To reduce the bump steer.
I've been running all season with 0 at the rack and 3 at the hub. The steering doesn't open anymore when the suspension is depressed.

rick oxley

thankyou for the reply,does the increased bumpsteer at full droop have
any negative efect when you run the shims like this?

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Look at the bottom case of the blown servo, are there any signs that it was hitting the chassis. I space them up and make sure my end points are correct, no issues here.

I have also bent the steering post a couple times, it has never caused a servo failure but I was running 450oz servos back then. I could see this as an issue on weaker servos.