Noticed the same thing, they do go on just tight. I thought about breaking the edge on the OD.

When I did a dry fit, the rear was really tight. I did chamfer the OD and it slid right in with out a problem.

Also i've noticed that web manual says go into 5C holes for rear camber link, but printed version has 6D position for this. Which one is correct for 'kit' setup?
And what about drop screws? They're supposed to be downwards in rear arms, and upwards in front arms.

The setups on the web are newer setups. You could start with one of those rather than the kit setup. Either way, pick one and follow it exactly. Then make changes from there.

Yes the droop screws are reversed in front to get more droop if necessary.

Thanks for info about setups.
About rear droop screws: if they're supposed to be placed heads down, how can i reach their hex sockets after assembling whole buggy? I suppose that they gonna be blocked by the droop pads on the chassis, or i missing something?

There is a Hex in both ends.

Mine in Bag H looks exactly like that (part no. also from manual) and doesn't have any hex on the end of thread section unlike droop screws on my ebuggy, that's why i'm a bit confused.

Yeah the ones in the NB48 don't have a hex in the threaded end. I just adjust mine in small increments by compressing the shocks to get to it

Mine are the same way. I have no hex head on the screw end. I was thinking you just run full droop all the time.

you can get to the droop screws easy as when its all assembled no problem

just lift the arm a bit and the screw head is there

Serves me right for not checking, i just assumed they had the hex in the end.

I'm swapping out the bearings in my NB and wanted to give an update on the Sylveris RC aluminum axles. I probably have about 2-3 hours of driving on the axles so far and they show no signs of wear or damage.

I'll be heading up to PNB next week and that track can break anything so I'll let you know how they do.

Just get some Mugen droop screws. You can adjust from either end.

+3