Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13473397)

When I first got my nb48 I was eating up protek and stock bearings all the time but found out it was caused by improper shimming for me so may want to check that out, I have no idea your experience level with nitro so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious.

Another good upgrade is the TKO clutch bearings, they last forever and get the thrust washers too.

Originally Posted by Graham11 (Post 13473397)

When I first got my nb48 I was eating up protek and stock bearings all the time but found out it was caused by improper shimming for me so may want to check that out, I have no idea your experience level with nitro so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious.

Another good upgrade is the TKO clutch bearings, they last forever and get the thrust washers too.

Originally Posted by vandalzzz (Post 13473748)

Dear TeknoRC, could you please perform a sort of quality check of your nitro kit pins holding clutch shoes? The issue i've met: got brand new MIP Thorp 1.5mm screwdriver and fresh set of clutch hw (incl. pins), and even with just opened pins my screwdriver doesn't seat tight enough, and it seems that pins' hexes gonna strip someday. But your 1.5mm setscrews are pretty good, such issue is only with clutch pins.
---
And btw, sometime ago you've mentioned about your own tuning guide. Any ETA on this?

Originally Posted by vandalzzz (Post 13473748)

Dear TeknoRC, could you please perform a sort of quality check of your nitro kit pins holding clutch shoes? The issue i've met: got brand new MIP Thorp 1.5mm screwdriver and fresh set of clutch hw (incl. pins), and even with just opened pins my screwdriver doesn't seat tight enough, and it seems that pins' hexes gonna strip someday. But your 1.5mm setscrews are pretty good, such issue is only with clutch pins.
---
And btw, sometime ago you've mentioned about your own tuning guide. Any ETA on this?

Originally Posted by ehartman_49348 (Post 13475093)

I raced my NB48 for the 2nd time this weekend and started off with Mo Denton's setup and made a few minor changes (1mm up in ride height front and rear, a little more toe out up front and 1 o-ring on each shock shaft to limit up-travel) and the car felt REALLY good. It had a lot of steering on-power and off-power and it was very easy to drive! I managed to put over a lap on the whole field during the 15 minute main and claim the win!!

Originally Posted by vandalzzz (Post 13473748)

Dear TeknoRC, could you please perform a sort of quality check of your nitro kit pins holding clutch shoes? The issue i've met: got brand new MIP Thorp 1.5mm screwdriver and fresh set of clutch hw (incl. pins), and even with just opened pins my screwdriver doesn't seat tight enough, and it seems that pins' hexes gonna strip someday. But your 1.5mm setscrews are pretty good, such issue is only with clutch pins.
---
And btw, sometime ago you've mentioned about your own tuning guide. Any ETA on this?

Originally Posted by CAR (Post 13475905)

Mo Denton... looking at your setup and have a question is the front kickup at 11.5 two dots down or at 10.5 two dots up? It would be nice if Tekno would fix this in the setup sheet. Also are you using the black 10 hole pistons that came with the kit which measure 1.25mm or the machined ones? Thanks much.

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13476167)

Aluminum screws lasted longer than the steel originals?

Originally Posted by Mo Denton (Post 13476176)

11.5 of kick up and the black pistons that came in the kit. I can't begin to tell you how many shock set ups I tried to come up with best overall. So far the guys that have tried have given great feedback. It may not be the holy grail but an awesome starting point and you may not change it at all. I havent

Originally Posted by CAR (Post 13476203)

So two dots down right? Sorry for asking just making sure that were both on the same page. Thanks

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13476229)

What's wrong with the setup sheet? Is that portion backwards?

Originally Posted by ehartman_49348 (Post 13475093)

I raced my NB48 for the 2nd time this weekend and started off with Mo Denton's setup and made a few minor changes (1mm up in ride height front and rear, a little more toe out up front and 1 o-ring on each shock shaft to limit up-travel) and the car felt REALLY good. It had a lot of steering on-power and off-power and it was very easy to drive! I managed to put over a lap on the whole field during the 15 minute main and claim the win!!

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13476462)

Is it just the 2 dot pills?

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13472951)

Raced the Tekno at yesterdays JBRL event. Setup was basically stock with 5/5/5 and I went up to 45wt/40wt because temps were projected to be 100+ but this turned out to be a huge mistake on the extremely rough Proline track. Arrived late so I didnt have a chance to change the setup between the couple minutes of practice time and the 1st qualifier because I was wrenching on other things.

Buggy was such a handful during the 1st qualifier with the terrible setup decision I made at 1am the night before. To make matters worse, I was having engine issues as well. Back in the pits I started checking out the engine and noticed a lot of oil around the back plate so I pulled the engine to take a peak. The o-ring looked to be in good shape but it must have dried and shrunk down on me. We recently moved back from Japan and all of my equipment is on the slow boat so I had to ask around the pits if anyone had a replacement. One of the Losi guys helped me out and I was able to get that problem addressed. The setscrew for the pipe hanger on the chassis had backed out so I had to track one of those down as well! Matt Wolter saved the day with the setscrew and I was ready for the second qualifier just as the cars were heading out onto the track (ended up finding the original screw under the fuel tank, go figure).

With all the other work that was going on I still wasnt able to address the shock oils and had to fight the setup again. I dont think all four tires were on the ground for a single moment of the day! The clutch bell came loose during the second qualifier so it was back to the pits. The screw didnt back all the way out because it hit the tank but the bell chewed it up and I'd have to make another run through the pits to scrounge up another. Once again, the TLR guys saved the day and hooked me up with a replacement (big thanks to Jose Castelan!). Buy the time I was done replacing the clutch, checking the tank, fuel lines, and grabbing something to eat, it was time to get back on track for the main, yet again with an ill handling buggy.

My buddy and I ended up in the same main so we had to find somebody to start and fuel us. Jerry Gerue and another TLR driver helped us out, rescued again! There were only five of us in the C main and I was able to take the win and bump in a pretty uneventful race. The C and B were only separated by one race so I wouldnt be able to address the shock oils for that either :( I started 11th in the 12 buggy field and had moved up to 6th by lap four but would DNF due to another clutch bell failure.

It was still a great day of racing and we truly appreciate all the racers that stepped up and helped out. I would have been done after the first qualifier if all these great guys hadnt hooked us up.

On another note, anyone have ideas on why the screw on the bell keeps backing out? I raced the 8ight for two years and never had this problem. I have quality tools and even used loctite the second time around.

My impressions of the buggy are pretty positive. It has a ton of steering like everyone has already mentioned. It was a fairly loose but driveable. Had plenty of tumbles during the day and although I havent torn the car down for cleaning and inspection yet, everything seems to have held up great.

Oh, one more thing. The brakes are more like an on/off switch right now with a small window one way or the other (quite a bit of deadband and then bam, full brakes). Any ideas on how to correct this? Also, when I push the car backwards, the brakes drag. It looks like the front rotor binds up. Not really an issue but was just curious if this happens to other people.

Originally Posted by blacktop20valve (Post 13476521)

on the brakes issue, i use kyosho mp9 tki3 brake rotors, pads, screw and disc guide, and i installed a small stiff spring came from my D8 on the brake linkage before the stopper, it has a very nice feel, and the pads barely wears

Originally Posted by JsK (Post 13476478)

The tekno setup sheet expresses kickup as if your doing it from the A plate like most other cars. Since your doing kickup from the B plate it is backwards . Dots down meaning higher kickup degrees.

Personally I would like them to build an A plate that does kickup instead of arm sweep. Leave the current B plate alone. Then we would have roll center and kickup adjustment.

Originally Posted by FastPete (Post 13476567)

Interesting. I was thinking of trying different brakes on my NB48 GT car. Mine fade the hotter they get. But this is on-road, still great brakes.

Originally Posted by blacktop20valve (Post 13476521)

on the brakes issue, i use kyosho mp9 tki3 brake rotors, pads, screw and disc guide, and i installed a small stiff spring came from my D8 on the brake linkage before the stopper, it has a very nice feel, and the pads barely wears

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13472951)

Raced the Tekno at yesterdays JBRL event. Setup was basically stock with 5/5/5 and I went up to 45wt/40wt because temps were projected to be 100+ but this turned out to be a huge mistake on the extremely rough Proline track. Arrived late so I didnt have a chance to change the setup between the couple minutes of practice time and the 1st qualifier because I was wrenching on other things.

Buggy was such a handful during the 1st qualifier with the terrible setup decision I made at 1am the night before. To make matters worse, I was having engine issues as well. Back in the pits I started checking out the engine and noticed a lot of oil around the back plate so I pulled the engine to take a peak. The o-ring looked to be in good shape but it must have dried and shrunk down on me. We recently moved back from Japan and all of my equipment is on the slow boat so I had to ask around the pits if anyone had a replacement. One of the Losi guys helped me out and I was able to get that problem addressed. The setscrew for the pipe hanger on the chassis had backed out so I had to track one of those down as well! Matt Wolter saved the day with the setscrew and I was ready for the second qualifier just as the cars were heading out onto the track (ended up finding the original screw under the fuel tank, go figure).

With all the other work that was going on I still wasnt able to address the shock oils and had to fight the setup again. I dont think all four tires were on the ground for a single moment of the day! The clutch bell came loose during the second qualifier so it was back to the pits. The screw didnt back all the way out because it hit the tank but the bell chewed it up and I'd have to make another run through the pits to scrounge up another. Once again, the TLR guys saved the day and hooked me up with a replacement (big thanks to Jose Castelan!). Buy the time I was done replacing the clutch, checking the tank, fuel lines, and grabbing something to eat, it was time to get back on track for the main, yet again with an ill handling buggy.

My buddy and I ended up in the same main so we had to find somebody to start and fuel us. Jerry Gerue and another TLR driver helped us out, rescued again! There were only five of us in the C main and I was able to take the win and bump in a pretty uneventful race. The C and B were only separated by one race so I wouldnt be able to address the shock oils for that either :( I started 11th in the 12 buggy field and had moved up to 6th by lap four but would DNF due to another clutch bell failure.

It was still a great day of racing and we truly appreciate all the racers that stepped up and helped out. I would have been done after the first qualifier if all these great guys hadnt hooked us up.

On another note, anyone have ideas on why the screw on the bell keeps backing out? I raced the 8ight for two years and never had this problem. I have quality tools and even used loctite the second time around.

My impressions of the buggy are pretty positive. It has a ton of steering like everyone has already mentioned. It was a fairly loose but driveable. Had plenty of tumbles during the day and although I havent torn the car down for cleaning and inspection yet, everything seems to have held up great.

Oh, one more thing. The brakes are more like an on/off switch right now with a small window one way or the other (quite a bit of deadband and then bam, full brakes). Any ideas on how to correct this? Also, when I push the car backwards, the brakes drag. It looks like the front rotor binds up. Not really an issue but was just curious if this happens to other people.

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13472951)

Raced the Tekno at yesterdays JBRL event. Setup was basically stock with 5/5/5 and I went up to 45wt/40wt because temps were projected to be 100+ but this turned out to be a huge mistake on the extremely rough Proline track. Arrived late so I didnt have a chance to change the setup between the couple minutes of practice time and the 1st qualifier because I was wrenching on other things.

Buggy was such a handful during the 1st qualifier with the terrible setup decision I made at 1am the night before. To make matters worse, I was having engine issues as well. Back in the pits I started checking out the engine and noticed a lot of oil around the back plate so I pulled the engine to take a peak. The o-ring looked to be in good shape but it must have dried and shrunk down on me. We recently moved back from Japan and all of my equipment is on the slow boat so I had to ask around the pits if anyone had a replacement. One of the Losi guys helped me out and I was able to get that problem addressed. The setscrew for the pipe hanger on the chassis had backed out so I had to track one of those down as well! Matt Wolter saved the day with the setscrew and I was ready for the second qualifier just as the cars were heading out onto the track (ended up finding the original screw under the fuel tank, go figure).

With all the other work that was going on I still wasnt able to address the shock oils and had to fight the setup again. I dont think all four tires were on the ground for a single moment of the day! The clutch bell came loose during the second qualifier so it was back to the pits. The screw didnt back all the way out because it hit the tank but the bell chewed it up and I'd have to make another run through the pits to scrounge up another. Once again, the TLR guys saved the day and hooked me up with a replacement (big thanks to Jose Castelan!). Buy the time I was done replacing the clutch, checking the tank, fuel lines, and grabbing something to eat, it was time to get back on track for the main, yet again with an ill handling buggy.

My buddy and I ended up in the same main so we had to find somebody to start and fuel us. Jerry Gerue and another TLR driver helped us out, rescued again! There were only five of us in the C main and I was able to take the win and bump in a pretty uneventful race. The C and B were only separated by one race so I wouldnt be able to address the shock oils for that either :( I started 11th in the 12 buggy field and had moved up to 6th by lap four but would DNF due to another clutch bell failure.

It was still a great day of racing and we truly appreciate all the racers that stepped up and helped out. I would have been done after the first qualifier if all these great guys hadnt hooked us up.

On another note, anyone have ideas on why the screw on the bell keeps backing out? I raced the 8ight for two years and never had this problem. I have quality tools and even used loctite the second time around.

My impressions of the buggy are pretty positive. It has a ton of steering like everyone has already mentioned. It was a fairly loose but driveable. Had plenty of tumbles during the day and although I havent torn the car down for cleaning and inspection yet, everything seems to have held up great.

Oh, one more thing. The brakes are more like an on/off switch right now with a small window one way or the other (quite a bit of deadband and then bam, full brakes). Any ideas on how to correct this? Also, when I push the car backwards, the brakes drag. It looks like the front rotor binds up. Not really an issue but was just curious if this happens to other people.

Originally Posted by Mo Denton (Post 13477082)

throw my set up on there and let it eat. you will enjoy it. as for brakes, I use a 7mm piece of fuel tubing infront of the collet to ease the brake engagement. but for having drag it sound like your end points are too high.

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13477411)

I'm not getting any drag brake effect, that is nice and free (rolling forward). When I pushed the car backwards, the front disc would walk towards the front of the buggy and bind on the pads a bit which I though was weird. It does do this when I rotate the wheels by hand on the starter box, just when it is on the ground. Since I'm not driving backwards, it isnt a big deal I guess.

Would more spring tension provide the same results as the fuel tubing, Mo?

Originally Posted by Mo Denton (Post 13477594)

is anyone doing wraps for the tekno stock bodies?

Originally Posted by Mo Denton (Post 13477572)

the spring tension doesn't have an effect on the brakes when they are applied. the spring on the brake linkage is compressed when the throttle is applied but when the brakes are applied the its directly being pulled from the collet. that's where I install a 7mm piece of fuel tubing. the tubing has a bit more flex than just the collet.

Originally Posted by madweazl (Post 13477639)

Ahh, now I understand.