4th race with the car and I finish 4th after starting 8th at the Prairieland shootout at Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet,IL.

Downside is I did end up bending the rear center drive shaft. I was able to bend it back. I only run one brace in the rear which is the long one so Im thinking that I will put the short one back in and run two and see how the handling changes.

The car is getting noticed by a few people at the track and they like what they see so hopefully I can gain a couple of people this year. They already know the positive rep the EB48 has so seeing the NB out there is peaking more interest.

While I haven't seen the center rear driveshaft on the NB48, I know that on the JQ these things are always bending. On thing that has been talked about and seems to work id grinding the tips of the dogbone flat. So taking 1mm or so material off the end and making it more flat. I don't know if the end of the driveshaft is a perfect ball or not as I don't have my NT48 in front of me, but it might be a possibility that it can be ground flat a bit.. Also adding 1 - 2 mm of fuel line into the cups helps cushion it.

Well after looking it up, the pictures appear to show that it is already pretty flat...

The ends are already flat but the shaft is long either way.

If you push the rear shaft forward into the center diff. It still takes up half of the outdrive.

Had an awesome day with the EB48 at a big race at the local track and the NB48 is coming around. When I picked it up NB48 a little over a month ago, I launched right in to Ramos's setup. It is pretty solid, but pushed real hard the way I drive. I heard good things about box stock, so decided to give it a overhaul since I had it completely torn down. Not a huge surprise, it's actually quite good! After just a quick tank at practice mid week (only had limited time), I fine tuned a few things.

I'm not only stacked up against a small handful of great local Tekno drivers (brand is still growing), but up against team drivers from Kyosho and a whole army of Mugen sponsored drivers. I need it to remain nimble and agile, especially in the very sharp corners we have. Using box setup, I have made a few adjustments that immediately helped out a bit to give a little slide in the rear to get around the corners faster. Using losi oils, I went to 42.5 in the front and 37.5 in the rear instead (85-95 degree heat). I shorted the rear link to the 'c' position. This was an immediate improvement, decreased the pushing, and allowed for much faster cornering.

I am narrowing the gap in feel between the EB48 and NB48, which is my ultimate goal.

Almost 16 hours at the track, almost 180 minutes running. Good day!

http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.07.2014-2.jpg

Hi everyone,

Glad to see some progress and success out there. There were a lot of races this weekend here and abroad and the results were very good as far as handling, durability, and a few podiums.

We hope to have a couple more setup sheets posted in the near future after we digest the AMS race and others. Thanks for posting and keeping the thread moving in a positive direction. See you at the races!

I see great job!

Very cool!

Just a few questions for you guys.i just recently ran my et48 for the first time at AMS 5.0 this weekend and managed to make the A main with this AWSOME truck with stock box set up with the the exception of my diff oils.so my question to you guy is that the nitro buggy just as good?i been running losi for the last year and was considering going all tekno for my nitro and ebuggy as well.pros and cons please!

The positive reviews on the EB48 are why I bought the NB48. I only run nitro and used Tekno parts on my Revo when I ran that so I knew the NB would be just as good both quality wise like the parts and track wise like the EB is.

I really enjoy my buggy. Ive had 4 races with it and those around me have noticed how well the car has performed and improved as I have tweaked the setup. It's durable,easy to work on and turns on a dime.

Pros
Durability
Corner Speed
Jumps Great
Box Setup
Great rear traction
Parts available
Greats plastics and metals
Shocks
Ease of Maintenance
Company supports Veterans

Cons
Honestly None.
I've not broken anything, I had one freak DNF due to the throttle linkage ball cup popping off the carb.


I took a chance and bought one after seeing one in the pits, liked the way it looked. The Ebuggy is very popular around here but the Nitro car had not taken off. I know of 3 total in my area and they ALL look good on the track. I am so comfortable with the car, I dont have to push hard to get good laptimes. The car corners flat and fast. I think thats the best part of this buggy. It works for me and I've run KYO/MUGEN/AE/HB in the last 3 years.

I was just wondering how does this company support veterans. Because I am a veteran and if they are legit, I'm sold on this company. That alone will make me change brands without question.

http://www.teknorc.com/military-discount/

Thanks!

Thanks for some insight!mine will arrive Friday.any hop up parts I should consider?

All I have to say is WoW!!!!! I guess I will have to break out the old credit card. This might get ugly updating the whole fleet...:D

I got the Ti-Ni coated shock shafts, would recommend.
Also have the aluminum driveshafts and diff pins, not necessary, but shaves about 15 grams if you're counting

Sounds good.thanks

I don't believe there is much in choices for aftermarket stuff for the car. Then again,it doesn't need it unless you're just looking to add bling to the car.

Agreed. Spend your money on some obvious spares (shock covers, diff/shock orings/parts, clutch bell/shoes, air filters, etc) and call it a day.

To be honest you will find a LOT of people that are just plain a fan of the brand. After you get one (which you did), you just get it and now you understand :D I think you will be very happy with a EB48/NB48. I run both.


To add to this, a post I wrote up on another forum that is also applicable here to anyone possibly weighing the pros/cons of different brands. I'm a "flashlight boy" (don't hate you silly stinky nitro boys hehehe) not having run nitro seriously since a NTC3 touring car probably over 10 years ago. I was really worried about the amount of time I would spend cleaning this when my EB48 and SCT410 are a breeze... What I wrote in the other forum:




Let's be honest, nitro is smelly and dirty. I really have to give it to Tekno though, they really have things figured out.

30 seconds in, motor, pipe, air filter is out (6 screws). Add 60-120 seconds to also spray down the pipe/motor:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-1.jpg

Add another 60 seconds and a half dozen screws, the entire electronic tray is off. Add another 60 seconds for hand wiping that down:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-2.jpg

<5% simple green, water, hand sprayer, air compressor, another 300 seconds:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-3.jpg

Under 10 minutes.... beat that! It actually takes me longer to do my electric because of the ESC/motor. They really put a lot of thought into things during design.

Now I see a single brace in the back. I run a single now but I did have both in back. 2 races after I took the small brace off,I bent the center rear drive shaft right at the rear of the engine mount.
I bring this up wonder if anyone did any serious testing about using both braces or just one?
I plan to put the short brace back in for this weekend.

[QUOTe3111;13323819]Thanks for some insight!mine will arrive Friday.any hop up parts I should consider?[/QUOTE]

Only hopup I bought was the tekno aluminum steering servo horn.

no issues at all with only running the longer rear brace thats all i run

never bent a drive shaft or even close there still perfectly straight

I doubt the small brace will stop a driveshaft bending. In fact I know it won't, as I ran both and still bent mine. If it crashes in a certain way, it's gonna bend.

I just run both because I like a stiff chassis, would rather the suspension do its job without the chassis interfering, just like 1:1 scale off-road, where chassis is braced like a rock.

You should cut excess amount of pipe hanger wire, otherwise you can damage your fuel tank.
And why you removed complete servo horns with assembly around them instead of disassembling links a bit?

1) Yes, checked the tank, good to go there. I bent it a bit to get it where I want it for the werks.

2) Because I have the brakes exactly where I want them and they're also filthy ;) Yes, I could marker the links, but either way you have to disassemble one of the two, so this is my preference. I square up the servo's to know exactly the location they are at when the horn is removed, clean, then put them back. Done. No concerns there other than the plastic horn **** HINT HINT TEKNO **** ;) Works well and installs back very quickly.

Thanks for sharing this method. I usually disconnect ball link from servosaver arm at the steering channel and remove brake link at thr.channel. Will try your method with thr.channel, but i doubt about so frequent removing of servo arm from st.servo, mainly because of the 1.5mm fix screw in arm, i think it will strip very fast.
Also i have a question about Simple green. I don't have anything named like that in local shops. What is it? Will automotive universal plastic cleaner fit for this? Or maybe glass cleaner? And what about bearings, don't you afraid about water+cleaner could penetrate them?

simple green or a motocross degreaser. I use Kalgard degreaser. Water and air compressor. Then once dry, WD40 and air compressor to lube the bearings and remove moisture.

yeh i used to use the simple green as well but its a bit dear so i have gone to truck wash CT18 as its way cheaper

but yes air and WD40 as well as per above :nod: :nod:

Yes, as mentioned, it's a partial greaser and cleaner. It can however chew through plastics, foams, etc. so (regardless of what you see lots of people doing at the track) never use it straight without diluting it. I personally get almost everything off with the compressor so do not worry about WD40 or anything else, but I have indeed heard many people doing that also.

The threads to adjust the throttle/brake links seem to strip quick, so yes that's another reason not to mess with them any more than necessary.

Will a mbx7body fit on the nb48?reason I ask is I have a kit coming and have a new body with wrap.

No it will not.

Thanks for input about cleaning. I definitely need to buy air compressor =)

Just wondering what setup can be called stock? I have setup sheet in the printed version of manual, another one in e-manual, and something called 'box setup' on the Teknorc site. Which one is 'stock'?
upd: just trying to clarify this because someone says 'went one link inner/upper/whaever from stock setup' without mentioning which one stock

For me,when someone says box stock. It means it is still setup as how the manual told them when they put it together. I haven't always seen a setup in the back of the book that is different then what the instructions during assembly.

I've been cleaning my cars the following way for 5 years now and it works for me.

http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/08...01_500X500.jpg
https://www.lamrod.com/uploads/produ...200_ml_827.jpg
http://i.walmartimages.com/i/p/00/04...17_500X500.jpg

I take off the front/rear ends and center diff assembly. I do the front and rear end one at a time. Then I do the chassis. I also just use the orange blast alone on the tank and wing then rinse with hot water. I use a rag to clean the radio tray and center diff assembly as I wouldn't want to get wd40 on the brake rotors/pads or electronics.

1. Hit the parts with the orange blast (50/50water) and use a tooth brush if needed to loosen dirt from shocks threads and recessed parts on the arms.
2. Spray it with some hot water from the sink on jet spray to remove the dirt and orange blast degreaser.
3. I then spray it down with wd40 paying special attention to the bearings and any other metal parts. You can see the water fall off as you spray the wd40 (Water Deterrent 40).
4. I then hit it with the air compressor to blast off any remaining dirt and moisture.
5. Use shop towel to wipe off excess wd40 and dry things up.

My cars look brand new after I do this. The orange blast also works well on tires just like simple green.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...608_184906.jpg

Local guy swears by this stuff. Maxima SC1
http://www.maximausa.com/shopping/images/SC1.png

That stuff is the best thing since sliced bread. Once you use it you will not try anything else. Oh yeah and it has a nice smell.

I just orderd my car so lets get the party started..:eek:

:nod: :nod: :nod:

All you need is an aluminum servo horn. Lol I just figured you ask whats needed that's not in the box, like everyone does on the SCT thread.

:lol: I kinda figured that. Aluminum servo horns are mandatory on pretty much every 1/8th scale. I also orderd the regular replacement items like front and rear arms, shock shafts, knuckles, hubs, gear box, and servo saver. I'm sure that will last me the rest of the summer season...:sneaky:

But thanks for keeping me in the loop. Tekno drivers seem to be the nices guys at the track.

Knuckles,hubs and front arms. Maybe the shock shafts are all you will really need and breaking those is hard to do. You would have to wreck pretty bad a few times like I did my first time out with the car to break.

The car is built well and strong but everything has a breaking point. Land any car on its side enough and something will break lol.

Maybe front drive shafts?? Unless you plan to bend it back if it does bend.