Should not effect it at all mate.

When you say rapid wear how long are you talking ?

What springs are you as that might make a difference as well

Rapid is goin from 'worn a bit' to 'worn down to spring ends' in a 0.5L.
Springs are stock.

Ok that's really weird mate I am easy getting 3 to 5L on them no probs something is not right in there that's for sure.

Engine torque, buggy weight and how much you pull the trigger determines clutch wear. Heavier springs wear shoes quicker, I am on a gallon on the kit shoes and they still look good. I would be intrested to see pics of your clutch.

Yes, that's true. The counter sunk screw was chosen to center or "lock in" the holder. The holder is also keyed to the chassis so that helps if you use the caphead screws, but you're right, it won't be as accurate as the CS screws.

What is the difference in flex characteristics and handling between the extra tough and regular arms? I ordered xtra tough instead of regular by mistake.

The NB comes with the XT arms. I don't think it has flex built into it, but it does have a different outer shock mounting location, and a stronger blend of plastic.

thanks

Here they are:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...G_8723-001.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...G_8725-001.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...G_8726-001.JPG

In the photos it looks like the the clutch springs run green.green.red.red instead of green.red.green.red. Can't tell for sure, but if it is, there may be too much slip because the shoes are trying to clamp down only one side of the clutch bell at a time.

Also, you probably do, but check for drag on buggy (brakes etc)

1. As mentioned it looks like you have the springs in wrong.
2. You need to put a 45deg bevel into the bottom edge of the shoe where it's coming out from under the bell otherwise the shoes will hang up on the bell and not return properly.

1. Springs are stock for NB48 - 2x green plus 2x gold
2. I'll try to do this on my new shoe set grinding some edge with sandpaper or dremel, wonder why this isn't mentioned anywhere.

Like it was said. Your springs are on the clutch wrong. They should stagger. Green gold green gold. That will help with wear. This clutch has good wear characteristics.

We are not trying to say you have the wrong springs but that they are in the wrong order. Unless its camera shadows playing tricks it looks like you have


GREEN-GREEN-GOLD-GOLD

It should be

GREEN-GOLD-GREEN-GOLD

Two springs of the same color should NOT be next to each other but 180 apart

1/ Yeah I couldn't tell the colours properly but they should be installed greens opposite to each other, golds opposite each other.

2/ Your shoes are getting a shoulder on them because the clutch bell is shimmed out past the edges of the shoes. You can bevel the shoes as mentioned or you may be able to shim the clutch shoes

I am NOT a big fan of running the bell that close to the flywheel. There is enough
radial play in the bearings to let it hit the flywheel when things flex.
The shoes are simply to close to the flywheel to use the entire surface without
the bell riding close enough to cause mystery flames. Best to bevel off the
bottom millimeter or so and keep the shoulder that develops there from hanging the
shoes up.

I am curious how having the spring on wrong effects bearing life.

Also those pads have a heap of life in them left

The key measurement is 23.4mm taken on the outside with callipers

There is a great video with Adam drake showing how to measure it correctly and when to change the shoes

Are there any clutch bells out there that will fit the car but are taller(or longer) then stock bells?

I dropped in a new motor and I find that the clutch bell is about 1mm short from being even with the spur gear. As if the motor was moved back just a hair to far. I cant shim anything enough to bring the bell forward or else the screw binds on the front bearing not allowing the bell to spin freely.

So it would seem that my options are finding a clutch bell that is longer or taller then stock,run with it as is(it's only 1mm at best..more like .5mm). Or return the motor for something else.

Hmm, i'll doublecheck my spring order (right now i'm pretty sure its fine), but i haven't modified my shoes system since first build. Looks like lower spring on the first pic is green due to green fuel line reflection, which i use to protect fuel intake and pressure tip.
I have something about 0.5 or 0.6mm shimming from the clutch nut, a tick smaller amount leads to touching something inside bell during rotation, but i'll try to shim a bit closer again.

Find a shim kit that includes a 7mm ID shim. Use that in between the engine bearing and before the flywheel collet. Then find some 3x5mm shims so the end cap doesn't bind up the assembly.

This kit has the 7mm shim: http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...Bells-Shim-Kit

Here are some 3x5mm shims:
http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Kit-3x49x03mm

I see what your sayin. The 3x5 shims will act as a extension of the shaft so the collet can be shimmed moving the bell forward.

Cool,thanks

center diff
 

Anybody else have this happen? Ran buggy first race and it was great I was a full sec. Faster on fast lap and top 5 and 10 noticed my center diff leaking after so I opened it up changed fluid and retightend then it started spinning out all over the track. Started going thru everything and found the diff shims looked like this and my diff was locked up. Took shims out put back together and feels crunchy and stiff.

Did you install the oring that goes under the shim.

Well technically I could see where it would throw the entire clutch out of balance. The light spring side would be engaged before the heavy spring side, causing more weight to be on the engaged side creating an uneven load.

That's just hypothetical guess.

Yes all o rings were installed and like I said it was great the first time out it was after I checked and put back together.

Mine's too got conecaved, i just opened it now coz i saw it was leaking

Don't know what would cause it to concave like that. My buggy has about 4 gallons on it and my diffs are fine.

So there is nothing on the front page. Im wondering what bodies fit the car? I already know about the FTW Xray body so besides that and stock,has anyone used a different body either Xray from say proline or something else from a different car?

I think the D8 body may fit or be close.

So, i've disassembled my clutch, and here are pics.
A bit angled view, to see that shoulder:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...8/IMG_8730.JPG
And here is wear pattern:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...8/IMG_8731.JPG
Spring order was correct, and i've placed shoes according to it. Now i'm a bit confused abut that angled pattern on shoes from gold springs.

Was the engine not running properly? I'm trying to figure out what the issue is. Clutch shoes will wear.

Mine are showing normal wear. The shoes with the lighter spring have slightly more then the other two. After4 runs I've already noticed some overlap on the sides of the softer spring shoes so some cleaning was needed.

Angled wear pattern is usually a sign of a clutchbell with a bit of excess play.

I have a JConcepts Finnisher for the EB48 being painted right now.....looks really nice in the photos on their site.
http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=684

Then there's also the ProLine body that apparently is nearing production.....honestly, I think the Finnisher looks better.
http://rcnewz.com/?p=14757

He is talking about body's for the NB48 not electric buddy :p

Yes the FTW x ray body fits and there is a FTW NB48 coming out soon it was tested a few weeks ago at a large event plus there is the stock body but not many others fit correctly

So limited to choose from right now.

I have a stock and a FTW but the back of the FTW got melted by the manifold when it moved on me so I already have to look at something else.

Oops.....total brain fart. Forgot which thread I was in. LOL

Just a random photo, ready to race Sunday :nod:

Sharp!