its been a while since anyone asked! Any word on new and improved NB48. I finally found a setup that works for me and excited for the companies new release.

Team drivers don't have any insider information for you. It's definitely coming soon but no telling when. Same for the EB. I can't wait!

My guess is not before end of september

Thanks guys, I will rebuild mine!

I would guess much sooner than that.

We've had 2 tanks in our car now and both were measured accurately in competition and both came in at 124cc's with minimal fuel line, i.e. our fuel line goes from the bottom of the tank outlet along the front to the steering servo side, under the air filter and onto the carbs inlet nipple. We were worried that in a long main the heat may cause the tank to expand and go over hence the short fuel line. We have even contemplated putting a plug in the tank to reduce capacity should we get a tank thats right on the limit. The old brand of car that we used came in at 120cc!!! Miles under but even running a foot of extra fuel line only gave you 123cc!

Hello everyone.
I'm fighting with excessive on-power weight transfer on my tekno buggies. Last race my NB48 almost pulled wheelies even on loose surface, and on-power steering was very terrible (inner wheel was in the air accordring to photos), revo-like bottoming etc.etc. I do know basics about droop. But i'm trying to clarify correlation of weight transfer and wheelbase, because some guides says that shorter wheelbase makes more on-power transfer (i have 1mm shim in fromnt of r.hubs). Also i'm running shocks in mid(arm) 3rd(tower, according to numbers in setup sheets) holes along with 104mm front droop, stock springs, 2dots down pill at C plate. Is there something else affecting weight transfer when you hit trigger?

All Canadians that own a Tekno please join here... I'm just trying to get an idea of the number of Tekno owners.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/698636993613372/

Check your center diff. Make sure your washers haven't coned out in it. What oil are you running? Is your engine in rear configuration?

Raise your anti-squat. That will make the car push the front end down while accelerating.

C.diff oil is about 6.5k AE (mix of 5k and 7k 1/3). Washers are about newly installed, revised, and i don't remember any concaves on them.
Engine is in front configuration.
The very weird fact in all of that is very very good shape of both buggies in the early May, but i've screwed something in setup and now trying to figure out what.

By 'raise' you mean 'hit 2.0deg mark' or something else? I already have 1.5deg with LRC D-plate (which increases anti-squat afaik)

Try taking the LRC off. I think it makes the rear to "Dumpy" when there is traction.

Is it possible that i have too much steering throw? And fr. wheels due to 15deg. castor block (and 11.5 kickup) just lays down too much (and/or sort of plowing because of too big angle of turn versus direction of vehicle itself) making contact patch too small for enough grip? I'm trying to recall what i've done prior to that mistune and afair i've set st.endpoints per Lutz video, with vehicle on wheels, not on stand, and that gave me about 8-10 clicks at my MT4.

More antisquat will reduce on power weight transfer but you described "revo-like bottoming" and "inner wheel was in the air" so that makes me think that your rear dampening might be to light. What are you running for shock pistons and oil? A lot of set-ups use the outer upper hole on the arm so using the middle will soften it up a little.