12LikesTekno NB48
09-04-2014 | 03:44 PM
#2236
Are you sure the ride height, droop, and tires are right? Mid and exit corner speed/stability has been phenomenal with this setup. I've had the rear diff out a couple times when getting on the power aggressively just before mid corner but have never felt it want to come around unless I was out of the groove (all bets are off then). I actually prefer 5/5/5 over the 5/5/4 I'm running right now at Revelation but I havent had a chance to race it anywhere else yet. Wanted to head down to Heritage for the Sidewinder race but truck registration is due and I've spent a small fortune this month on RC.
Edit: currently running Mugen oils (5/5/4) but have no idea how they compared to the kit supplied 5/5/5 that I was running prior so it may not be a fair assessment.
Edit: currently running Mugen oils (5/5/4) but have no idea how they compared to the kit supplied 5/5/5 that I was running prior so it may not be a fair assessment.
09-06-2014 | 07:13 PM
#2238
09-06-2014 | 10:09 PM
#2240
09-06-2014 | 10:41 PM
#2241
09-07-2014 | 09:14 PM
#2244
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (61)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 985
From: Chula Vista, CA
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...v-2100mah.html
As for the clutch, using the 34mm Werks 4 shoe clutch on the buggy and truggy. You will need to put some shims between the front bearing and collet to move the clutch forward.
09-07-2014 | 10:07 PM
#2245
Suspended
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 290
From: Usa
I use this one for both my buggy and truggy.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...v-2100mah.html
As for the clutch, using the 34mm Werks 4 shoe clutch on the buggy and truggy. You will need to put some shims between the front bearing and collet to move the clutch forward.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php...v-2100mah.html
As for the clutch, using the 34mm Werks 4 shoe clutch on the buggy and truggy. You will need to put some shims between the front bearing and collet to move the clutch forward.
09-08-2014 | 04:39 AM
#2246
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 762
From: somewhere near Japan
So, here is another one sort of bug report.
Issue: new (revised) tank can be cracked causing pressure problems and therefore tuning issues. Crack is so small and located in unobvious place making pressure test close to impossible.
How to repeat: side impact slightly above pipe line where most stress is taken by the outer rear fuel line clip.
Result: screw holding clip causes crack of the tank body starting from the screw' hole.
Major issue is about unstable nature of this damage: with body off and clip aligned well there is vrtually no pressure leak. With body on it applies some force to the clip, and not so soft landings temporary increases this force. While buggy is being upside down force is high enought to remove all pressure from the system and cause flameout.
But when you take tank off and decide to make leak test, you remove clips and screws also. or at least don't apply force to that rear outer clip, therefore silly drivers with weak lungs don't have a chance to detect this leak.
Workaround: mount this clip facing rear left wheel or/and apply some material betwwen tank sidewall and clip.
Hope this will help.
Issue: new (revised) tank can be cracked causing pressure problems and therefore tuning issues. Crack is so small and located in unobvious place making pressure test close to impossible.
How to repeat: side impact slightly above pipe line where most stress is taken by the outer rear fuel line clip.
Result: screw holding clip causes crack of the tank body starting from the screw' hole.
Major issue is about unstable nature of this damage: with body off and clip aligned well there is vrtually no pressure leak. With body on it applies some force to the clip, and not so soft landings temporary increases this force. While buggy is being upside down force is high enought to remove all pressure from the system and cause flameout.
But when you take tank off and decide to make leak test, you remove clips and screws also. or at least don't apply force to that rear outer clip, therefore silly drivers with weak lungs don't have a chance to detect this leak.
Workaround: mount this clip facing rear left wheel or/and apply some material betwwen tank sidewall and clip.
Hope this will help.
First. Fuel clip is mounted as per manual:
Its obvious that body can transmit impact force thru itself to that clip i.e. during upside down landing on the pipe, causing cracks like i've.
Second pic. Fuel clip facing rear wheel:
Even during hard crashes clip doesn't act as support for body, so no stress goin' to tank in such configuration.
Body is stock, and i have no idea how it looks with FTW body.
09-08-2014 | 06:10 PM
#2249
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,737
09-09-2014 | 11:55 AM
#2250
Spent some time to investigate a bit more, and here are two pics.
First. Fuel clip is mounted as per manual:
Its obvious that body can transmit impact force thru itself to that clip i.e. during upside down landing on the pipe, causing cracks like i've.
Second pic. Fuel clip facing rear wheel:
Even during hard crashes clip doesn't act as support for body, so no stress goin' to tank in such configuration.
Body is stock, and i have no idea how it looks with FTW body.
First. Fuel clip is mounted as per manual:
Its obvious that body can transmit impact force thru itself to that clip i.e. during upside down landing on the pipe, causing cracks like i've.
Second pic. Fuel clip facing rear wheel:
Even during hard crashes clip doesn't act as support for body, so no stress goin' to tank in such configuration.
Body is stock, and i have no idea how it looks with FTW body.
Vandalzzz,
I know you said it was the new revised tank but from the pictures that looks like the old tank, this could be your main problem if you are cracking the tank.
-Thomas