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Originally Posted by TTO1 Racr
(Post 13390286)
Hey guys I have a question. I'm considering getting into nitro buggy next season. What engines and pipes do you guys like? I've heard good things about the new Picco engines and the Werks engines. But here's a problem, I'm on a little bit of a small to mid-range budget. So I'm looking for something with good mileage for a buggy, 8-10 minutes on a tank.
Thank you |
Originally Posted by TTO1 Racr
(Post 13390286)
Hey guys I have a question. I'm considering getting into nitro buggy next season. What engines and pipes do you guys like? I've heard good things about the new Picco engines and the Werks engines. But here's a problem, I'm on a little bit of a small to mid-range budget. So I'm looking for something with good mileage for a buggy, 8-10 minutes on a tank.
Thank you and the combo works well in testing last week i was getting over 11 mins on my combo with 2 x green springs and 2 x gold springs in my clutch |
Check out http://www.rw-mods.com/engines.html
Engines are based off Alpha motors. I currently have the base motor,the A5. Great power,keeps up with everyone else. The R8 Im told is equal to the Reds motor. Engine lapping for a faster break in,or a full break in so you can just bolt it up and go. Grab either the 801 or Tb-1 for the pipe and your set. |
You'll go thru a few engines and clutch setups before you find what feels good to you. There are so many variables. The nova p5 is an inexpensive engine that has good run time. You can ask 10 guys and get 10 different answers. Stay patient, nitro is a whole new ball game. I always say find your best local nitro guru and pick his brain, absorb everything like a sponge. Nitro is like a puzzle piece, you'll get there :)
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anybody got a quick fix, center diff was completely locked up. I can get Mugen shims and orings not sure if they will fit. May be sidelined this weekend...ugh...
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r...pspecg7wyu.jpg |
Originally Posted by underway
(Post 13390961)
anybody got a quick fix, center diff was completely locked up. I can get Mugen shims and orings not sure if they will fit. May be sidelined this weekend...ugh...
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r...pspecg7wyu.jpg |
Originally Posted by underway
(Post 13390961)
anybody got a quick fix, center diff was completely locked up. I can. Iet Mugen shims and orings not sure if they will fit. May be sidelined this weekend...ugh...
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r...pspecg7wyu.jpg |
Originally Posted by underway
(Post 13390961)
anybody got a quick fix, center diff was completely locked up. I can get Mugen shims and orings not sure if they will fit. May be sidelined this weekend...ugh...
http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/r...pspecg7wyu.jpg |
Got it. Putting new shims in the basket now.
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Originally Posted by TTO1 Racr
(Post 13390286)
Hey guys I have a question. I'm considering getting into nitro buggy next season. What engines and pipes do you guys like? I've heard good things about the new Picco engines and the Werks engines. But here's a problem, I'm on a little bit of a small to mid-range budget. So I'm looking for something with good mileage for a buggy, 8-10 minutes on a tank.
Thank you http://www.houstonsengineservice.com...6ccde89f7005b3 Fusion X engines . NovaRossi quality, designed and sold by a racer. The X3 is a great motor at a very reasonable price. |
Originally Posted by masin14
(Post 13390984)
I used to have the same problem with the stock shims. But since i switched to the blackshims i haven't had a problem yet.:nod:
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Well I just got done building the NB48 and about to go test it on the home track. Here's a small review or synopsis of the build. Having built the NT48 this year I expected the same quality and was not disappointed. Some of the changes and notes I made while building:
Used the 3x40 socket head screws as suggested in post 1 for the A block and D block. Used I-Screws for engine mounting rather than the flat head washer method. Went mostly with kit setup, but swapped the sway bars and stood the shocks up one hole. Clutch Bell - I had a TKO rear bearing ready, and front; however, this clutch bell uses a larger front bearing than the bell on the NT48.. so using the kit one. Turnbuckles - ugh wish these were prebuilt hate them.. I do think the front ones are 2mm too long though, as they wont go in any further without really cranking on them and this may be an issue should I decide to go with a shorter camber link setup. Diff housing/ shimming - I noticed that even with both shims on gear side that the lash was still a bit much. Have to see how it wears after a shakedown run. (Should be noted that I only run 1 gear side on the truggy now) Screws - in general the socket hear screws and the larger 4mm screws are great; however, the 2mm screws are pretty soft. An upgrade to true 12.9 hardness would be a great addition to an already great kit. Overall again, incredible build. All parts were there and fit with no modification needed, instructions were very clear and easy to follow. Have to send for the new tank, but old one should be fine for now after doing all the tricks :) So off for the shakedown with my Picco powerplant.. will post later :) |
Sounds great!
Hope it all goes well on the shakedown |
Yes send in a request for the new tank it is well worth it if your track has large jumps that's for sure
Mine has been built proof now with the new tank in :nod: :nod: :nod: Agreed 100% on front turn buckle length as well but get the new tool and they are easier I have just ordered mine after stripping other brands of turn buckle tools :p |
Diff housing/ shimming - I noticed that even with both shims on gear side that the lash was still a bit much. Have to see how it wears after a shakedown run. (Should be noted that I only run 1 gear side on the truggy now) Clutch Bell - I had a TKO rear bearing ready, and front; however, this clutch bell uses a larger front bearing than the bell on the NT48.. so using the kit one. Turnbuckles - ugh wish these were prebuilt hate them.. I do think the front ones are 2mm too long though, as they wont go in any further without really cranking on them and this may be an issue should I decide to go with a shorter camber link setup. Went mostly with kit setup, but swapped the sway bars and stood the shocks up one hole. Swapped sway bars More rear toe, think I settled on 4.5 Short wheelbase And the inner pivot hole on the rear hubs. The inner pivot hole really squares the car up on exit. You have been doing so well with the truggy glad to see you running a buggy as well. Hope they got you a tekno shirt to go with it for your podium pics. Lol |
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