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Old 08-29-2013, 01:27 PM
  #5596  
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Has anyone shimmed their front or rear diffs to give them some more play? Mine had no play without them. Also in the manual it states 4mm of total shimming for each upper arm. Is that right? It seems very tight. Last thing, when talking about the rear shocks it says pivot ball position front or rear, what adjustment is that? What is moving and front or rear of what?

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Old 08-29-2013, 01:35 PM
  #5597  
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Has anyone shimmed their front or rear diffs to give them some more play? Mine had no play without them. Also in the manual it states 4mm of total shimming for each upper arm. Is that right? It seems very tight.
I had to put on shim in the front diff (gear side) and none in the rear. My friend who has also just built his has put one shim on the non gear side on both front and rear diffs to give more play.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by shanef
If he keeps running the mugen i doubt he will keep it very stock.
He doesnt seem to mod his cars that much looking at his previous rides.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by minty
I had to put on shim in the front diff (gear side) and none in the rear. My friend who has also just built his has put one shim on the non gear side on both front and rear diffs to give more play.
Thank you for your response. I added to my original post after you responded. By chance do you know the answer to my additional questions?
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:59 PM
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The mbx7 ECO has an updated rear tower with a second row of holes for the rear camber link and also an ackerman plate with 4 holes. I guess the 4th hole is an extra hole in the front to get the same effect of a reversed ackerman plate.

Would they update the nitro kits too with these changes?
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Has anyone shimmed their front or rear diffs to give them some more play? Mine had no play without them.
Yes, we use 1 shim on the other side of the ring gear when the car is new.
Also put 1 shim at the outside of the gearbox where the pinion sits. Without the shim, the pinion has some play.

Originally Posted by B00t13g
Also in the manual it states 4mm of total shimming for each upper arm. Is that right? It seems very tight.
It's right, but that is indeed tight. Take a spacer on each side and sand them down until you have a little play. If dust and dirt gets between the shims, it will bind if you don't sand them down.

Originally Posted by B00t13g
Last thing, when talking about the rear shocks it says pivot ball position front or rear, what adjustment is that? What is moving and front or rear of what?
The ball isn't in the middle, you can play with it. I think the change is very minimal and never changed this.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Yes, we use 1 shim on the other side of the ring gear when the car is new.
Also put 1 shim at the outside of the gearbox where the pinion sits. Without the shim, the pinion has some play.



It's right, but that is indeed tight. Take a spacer on each side and sand them down until you have a little play. If dust and dirt gets between the shims, it will bind if you don't sand them down.


The ball isn't in the middle, you can play with it. I think the change is very minimal and never changed this.
I guess I'm confused on what ball the sheet is talking about.does the kit come with the shims for the diff?
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:55 PM
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Made it to the track today for a test day. If you remember I had a very loose car a couple weeks ago and a few of you made suggestions. Well I did all of them at 1 time, figured I could back off what I didn't need............Man the track was very loose and the buggy was hooked, don't know what helped the most but now have a great loose track setup. Oh, the new BU-KU clutch helped a whole lot, loved dialing in what I wanted. I staggered the tension, 1 stock setting, 1 1/4 turn tighter and 1 1/2 turn tighter= nice smooth engagement even on a very "fluffy" track..Just wish my Futaba wouldn't thermal at 140°. I also tried a EBMods powerplate on my Werks B6 Pro and it was wild how much that helped with runtime, real quick return to idle. I thought it died the 1st time I let off the gas it settled down so fast. Also went to a 6.5mm carb insert from the 7mm. And did the akerman flip..smooth steering is nice and now the worst part of the track to me last time was the chicanes, now I rip thru it.
Thanks for all the suggestions
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:10 PM
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Does anyone have the specs on lengths for the throttle/ brake linkages?
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Stubbs
I just picked up an MBX7, and I'm looking for a good, stable set up to start with on medium to large outdoor tracks. Hard pack clay, some bluegroove, but with dust / fluff outside the race line.

Barry Pettit suggested using Lee Martin's "base setup", but I can't find anything like that online. The only ones I see are track and event specific. Does anyone know what his base setup is?

Thanks.....
www.robertbatlle.com

has his std set up plus others specific to tracks/conditions.
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Old 08-29-2013, 04:50 PM
  #5606  
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
Yuichi Kanai is not running his Green motor>>>>
He blew it up in one of his qualifiers.
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
Does anyone have the specs on lengths for the throttle/ brake linkages?
long enough to properly operate everything, not so long that it hits things.
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Old 08-29-2013, 08:57 PM
  #5608  
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I have not seen a setup sheet that lists front camber at all. Does everyone just run the upper pillowball all the way in with no shims and the lower with the 1 shim?
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g
I have not seen a setup sheet that lists front camber at all. Does everyone just run the upper pillowball all the way in with no shims and the lower with the 1 shim?
That equals 2deg camber.

I run the steel mbx6 pillows in the upper which allows you to run what ever camber you like.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:37 AM
  #5610  
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can someone confirm the rear ride height in respect with the shock collar? i have 29 mm ride height which translates to 9mm collar width. i am running the stock hubs with one hole and droop 126mm.
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