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Old 05-16-2013, 08:57 PM
  #4426  
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noticed both my rear shock shafts were bent tonight while getting ready for a race. When I replaced them and rebuilt, my csi pistons didn't want to fit smoothly in the shock body. Do you think the piston could be warped or maybe shock body tweaked? Went back to a mugen piston and it seemed to work fine in the shock body.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:42 PM
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Thought I might post a pic of one of the best cars I've owned over the years.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MBX7-922951_479861568750813_479040520_n.jpg  
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
how tight are you guys screwing in the adjustment nuts for the pillow balls. should there be any back and forth play with the hub .
If you have your pillow balls off the arms tighten them up then back them off till it drops down on its own weight. Obviously you will have to re adjust over time when wear occurs.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BradS
noticed both my rear shock shafts were bent tonight while getting ready for a race. When I replaced them and rebuilt, my csi pistons didn't want to fit smoothly in the shock body. Do you think the piston could be warped or maybe shock body tweaked? Went back to a mugen piston and it seemed to work fine in the shock body.
Sounds like you have the lock nut too tight on the CSI piston, hand tight only or they will get out of shape.

Jamie
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:59 AM
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What about the throttle spring?
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:18 AM
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Yes you cut the spring down a fair bit, especially if you want to run the collet also.
With the pillowball play adjustment check you have a slight amount of play still at full lock, when adjusted them that close with the steering straight ahead they will be too close at full lock, running them too tight can actually wind the alloy ball off over time.

With shock rebound you don't want much rebound, but I have noticed the shocks seem to have less when first filled before any oil and air is blead out, then I just crack the shock open a full turn holding it on an angle with the bleed hole facing up, push the shaft1/2 way in for some slow rebound or 2/3rds to 3/4 in for next to no rebound...and good tip made in a post above, do not tighten the locknut too tight on to the piston.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:35 AM
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Got my kit to a roller last night. The quality and fitment is top notch, probably the best in the business. I actually lost time trying to shim things that ended up not needing to be shimed (Ie. diffs in diff cases) Now i'm at a sticking point...racing tomorrow and I still need to pull all of the electronics and engine out of my old car and set up the starter box to run the X7 or get some good sleep and race the 8.2. I so want to run the X7 tomorrow but that pesky thing called a job is keeping me from finishing now.
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:21 AM
  #4433  
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Good morning Mugen peeps. I am picking up my new 7 on Sunday and want to order a few more parts to complete the build. I have read about the throttle servo arm problems and want to know if the Hudy arm I bought for the six will work for the seven. Does anyone know if this arm will work on the seven without major modifications?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/advanc...ords=HUD293495
Also, the JQ spacers are sold out everywhere I have looked, does anyone know if they are in stock anywhere?

Thanks, Mike
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Old 05-17-2013, 05:34 AM
  #4434  
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Originally Posted by mikal
Good morning Mugen peeps. I am picking up my new 7 on Sunday and want to order a few more parts to complete the build. I have read about the throttle servo arm problems and want to know if the Hudy arm I bought for the six will work for the seven. Does anyone know if this arm will work on the seven without major modifications?
http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/advanc...ords=HUD293495
Also, the JQ spacers are sold out everywhere I have looked, does anyone know if they are in stock anywhere?

Thanks, Mike
JQ Products B037 Shock Bushings

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KRMHCI/...I&linkCode=asn
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:17 AM
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Thank-you for the quick response Motorman, unfortunately they only have one set in stock and I need two. Does anyone else know who might have the spacers in stock?

Thanks again, Mike
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:46 AM
  #4436  
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Originally Posted by curacing2
Yes you cut the spring down a fair bit, especially if you want to run the collet also.
With the pillowball play adjustment check you have a slight amount of play still at full lock, when adjusted them that close with the steering straight ahead they will be too close at full lock, running them too tight can actually wind the alloy ball off over time.

With shock rebound you don't want much rebound, but I have noticed the shocks seem to have less when first filled before any oil and air is blead out, then I just crack the shock open a full turn holding it on an angle with the bleed hole facing up, push the shaft1/2 way in for some slow rebound or 2/3rds to 3/4 in for next to no rebound...and good tip made in a post above, do not tighten the locknut too tight on to the piston.
I cut a little of the spring and also cut the conical end of the ballend of so I have more place for the collet

As for the bladders, I changed them to Kyosho bladders. Rebound is much more consistent and easier to setup. It's a tip I got from Daniel Reckward when he was still driving Mugen.
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:22 AM
  #4437  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I cut a little of the spring and also cut the conical end of the ballend of so I have more place for the collet

As for the bladders, I changed them to Kyosho bladders. Rebound is much more consistent and easier to setup. It's a tip I got from Daniel Reckward when he was still driving Mugen.
awesome that makes sense. thanks
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:33 AM
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I have never ran the Collet just for that reason. Sometimes have to cut the spring depending on the engine as well.
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:11 PM
  #4439  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
I cut a little of the spring and also cut the conical end of the ballend of so I have more place for the collet

As for the bladders, I changed them to Kyosho bladders. Rebound is much more consistent and easier to setup. It's a tip I got from Daniel Reckward when he was still driving Mugen.
the bladders on the mbx7 are revised, no need for kyosho bladders.
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:12 PM
  #4440  
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Originally Posted by gt racing
the bladders on the mbx7 are revised, no need for kyosho bladders.
I know, but I think the kyosho bladders are easier to work with. And they shock perform great with them.
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