skirkman

Hey everyone,just stopping buy to wish Roy,Stephen,and all of my team C teamates a Merry Christmas!

WILLMCIVER

Thanks merry christmas to you and your family aswell!!!!!

ehames005

iTrader: (74)

I went out for some pre Christmas practice on Sunday, with my T8 and T8T. I had to miss the races due to work this week but I learned alot from the practice. I ran about 2 hours with alot of tweaks to the buggy. The track that I run on is super rough right now so I had been fighting the buggy hooking the ruts and I have got it very good. The biggest change was moving the camber links and putting the wheelbase in the middle instead of full forward like I had it. I have the front camber link at the top and the rear on the inside bottom. It really helped balance the buggy and take away some of the steering and keeping the rear end in check. I'm not sure how it affected my lap time as there was no timing but it mad it alot more comfortable to drive in the rough conditions. This was only the second time I have been able to run the buggy and it has been super responsive to all the change that I have made to it, now it is just a matter of getting more time running the buggy before the Nitro Challenge in Febuary!!!!

WILLMCIVER

Are you running the outside hole on the rear upright, and where are the shocks on the arms inside or outside?

ehames005

iTrader: (74)

I have the link on the inside of the hub and the shocks are on the outside hole on the arms.

RoyJ

On bumpy conditions, the rear shock position on the arm should be at the inside hole, unless you've moved the position at the tower to the outside.

For a more stable ride with more traction, move the rear upper camber link to the lowest inside hole at the tower, and to the outer most hole on the hub carrier. Maximizing the length of the camber link will slow down the rear response. If you then have too much of a push for a tighter layout, decrease the rear toe-in.

skirkman

@Roy, i tried it at the lowest hole on the tower but it kinda made it push alittle (for the low traction tight conditions) but good for highspeed cornering

thekisscutken1

iTrader: (46)

I was wondering if anyone with a T8E uses a sensored motor or if its even possible to put one in this buggy. I just got picked up by hobbywing and in debate about getting sensored or sensorless motor. i want to go sensored but not sure if the steering post is in the way. Heres a link to the motor i'm looking at (the 4168).

http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xrm4168sd

Pharcyed

iTrader: (18)

Another team driver named John Mathers use's a sensored Hobbywing set-up in his T8E and he never had an issue.

gone banana

iTrader: (14)

i run sensored motor in t8e i turned the can to make it to work i will post picture tonight

slakr

iTrader: (36)

You should be fine with the 4168 (68mm). I have the 4274 1800kv (74mm) in my T8e and it fits.

http://www.falconsekido.com/products/xrm4274sd

It's tight and I have to have it turned a certain way, but it does fit; so the shorter 4168 should be good to go.

thekisscutken1

iTrader: (46)

Ok great yea I could decide which motor to get. 4168 it is. Thanks!

thekisscutken1

iTrader: (46)

should i run the 4mm motor washer with it? Does this washer help the motor sit more stable or what is the purpose? I couldn't even fit one with my castle motor. way too long

RoyJ

The TU0807 and TU0811 motor washers are used to shim a shorter-can motor forward, for more front traction while cornering. Also, some motors have a very long output shaft, which can rub the left side batt-pack. If you don't want to cut down the shaft, you can use the motor washer to increase the gap between shaft and battery.

The XL motors don't fit with the washer(s). So if the output shaft is too long it will have to be cut.

FSULowLap

I run sensored only in my T8E. Runs great. VTX8 and Tekin 1900kv