5LikesTeam Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming
10-06-2011, 08:02 AM
#526
Oh man that is nice...
10-06-2011, 09:42 AM
#528
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.
10-06-2011, 09:45 AM
#529
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.
I run the DE skids front and rear. They really help save the life of the chassis in those areas.
10-06-2011, 10:12 AM
#530
t-bone Racing is also a great alternative. They have Racing and Bashing skid/bumpers. Also, what really is awesome, they have a lifetime guarantee. Worth a look see. Here is the link:
http://www.t-bone-racing.com/
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.
Heck no!
this is the same painter that paints a lot of the Pro drivers. I sent him the pictured shells and got them back all within like 5 days. He is fast and very reasonable on prices. Here is that link:
http://www.kustomrcgraphics.com/
Last edited by ABN Hoosier; 10-06-2011 at 11:13 AM.
10-06-2011, 01:32 PM
#531
Tekno V4 RC8.2 Build
Just finished my RC8.2 Tekno V4 build and I encountered two problems, so I came here and see that my rctech friends have already reported the same exact problems.
Problem #1 - I couldn't get full 106mm shock length on the front because the chassis is binding with the front arms and won't allow full droop. I thought this might only be a Tekno chassis issue, but apparently not. Time to break out the dremel on the arms. Has anyone contacted AE support yet to report this and see if there is a fix in the works?
Problem #2 - I get binding in the front and rear gearboxes when snugging up the suspension mount plates. I have had 2 RC8Bes, an RC8Te and an SC8e and I've never encountered this problem before, so I don't know why it's happening now. I can loosen the screws and get rid of the binding, but I don't feel comfortable that the screws are tight enought to prevent problems when runnning it on the track. I called AE and Chris suggested running it in a little to free up the gears and diff case a little. It looks like that worked for at least one other person on this board, so I'll give it a try.
Also, you all probably noticed that the new shock boots don't come with the plastic shock boot washers shown in the manual. According to Chris, you don't need them and that was an error in the manual.
Problem #1 - I couldn't get full 106mm shock length on the front because the chassis is binding with the front arms and won't allow full droop. I thought this might only be a Tekno chassis issue, but apparently not. Time to break out the dremel on the arms. Has anyone contacted AE support yet to report this and see if there is a fix in the works?
Problem #2 - I get binding in the front and rear gearboxes when snugging up the suspension mount plates. I have had 2 RC8Bes, an RC8Te and an SC8e and I've never encountered this problem before, so I don't know why it's happening now. I can loosen the screws and get rid of the binding, but I don't feel comfortable that the screws are tight enought to prevent problems when runnning it on the track. I called AE and Chris suggested running it in a little to free up the gears and diff case a little. It looks like that worked for at least one other person on this board, so I'll give it a try.
Also, you all probably noticed that the new shock boots don't come with the plastic shock boot washers shown in the manual. According to Chris, you don't need them and that was an error in the manual.
10-06-2011, 02:38 PM
#532
After 1 race day my rear CVD covers are both torn from hitting the arms and one shock boot ripped.
10-06-2011, 03:13 PM
#533
The new shock boots are really thin and have little to no structure to them. During my first race day the boots would be pushed up after every race, exposing the shock shafts. When you compress the shock the boot stays and the shock returns. I am going to the old boots or no boots.
After 1 race day my rear CVD covers are both torn from hitting the arms and one shock boot ripped.
After 1 race day my rear CVD covers are both torn from hitting the arms and one shock boot ripped.
I am contemplating Kyosho shock boots.......
Link to the weird lookin boots that might work pictured above...
10-06-2011, 03:19 PM
#534
I might try the shock boots off of my Serpent, they have been really durable and fit really well.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Boot-Set-4
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Boot-Set-4
10-06-2011, 04:38 PM
#535
Tech Adept
No problem. I actually enjoyed it. I was just worried I was being annoying because of all the pictures having to affect peoples download to view the page. But like I said before, I started a "RC8.2 Build Thread" and it was deleted.....LOL Anyway, I think this Buggy is going to make a big difference in my driving and for that matter, a lot of folks.
Cheers
-Hoosier
Cheers
-Hoosier
my mates just gone over to driving AE from Kyosho so i'm keen to drive his and see how different it is to the rc8b, which i had 2 of.
don't stop posting pics bud they make the thread 10x better!
Cheers
10-06-2011, 05:25 PM
#536
No problem. I actually enjoyed it. I was just worried I was being annoying because of all the pictures having to affect peoples download to view the page. But like I said before, I started a "RC8.2 Build Thread" and it was deleted.....LOL Anyway, I think this Buggy is going to make a big difference in my driving and for that matter, a lot of folks.
Cheers
-Hoosier
Cheers
-Hoosier
I went the route of doing the worlds upgrade and recently switched to 8.2 arms instead of buying a new 8.2. Couldn't wait when there was all this hype on new geometry
Anyways, I love the worlds geometry, but now I'm interested in driving an 8.2. Damn Associated for making the 8.2 slightly different. Now I will always wonder if the 8.2 is that much different than my worlds geometry RC8b
10-06-2011, 07:13 PM
#537
How far are you guys screwing in your bump stops for the a arms? Milimeter wise?
10-06-2011, 07:18 PM
#538
Problem #2 - I get binding in the front and rear gearboxes when snugging up the suspension mount plates. I have had 2 RC8Bes, an RC8Te and an SC8e and I've never encountered this problem before, so I don't know why it's happening now. I can loosen the screws and get rid of the binding, but I don't feel comfortable that the screws are tight enought to prevent problems when runnning it on the track. I called AE and Chris suggested running it in a little to free up the gears and diff case a little. It looks like that worked for at least one other person on this board, so I'll give it a try.
10-06-2011, 07:34 PM
#540
Check to make sure that the pinion bearings are seated fully in the diff cases. Leave the diffs assembled and pull on the CVD to seat the bearing fully. I pressed them in like I have on every other AE kit I have built and they still had a very tight/crunchy mesh between the diff and the pinion gears. I yanked on the CVD's and it seated another 2-3mm into the housing and freed up the diffs. The 8.2 housings have a much tighter fit for the bearings.