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Team Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming

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Team Associated RC8.2 Factory Team Kit is coming

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Old 10-06-2011, 08:02 AM
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Oh man that is nice...
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Old 10-06-2011, 08:55 AM
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I've started building my shocks and I noticed in the 8.2 manual that it says no rebound. I typically build my buggy shocks with half rebound and I wanted to know how some of you guys are building yours?
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by beidle99 View Post
ABN Hoosier
what make and where did you get the front and rear bumpers/skid plates that you installed? They look pretty pretty good and actually useful.
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Racerx336 View Post
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.

I run the DE skids front and rear. They really help save the life of the chassis in those areas.
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Old 10-06-2011, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by beidle99 View Post
ABN Hoosier
what make and where did you get the front and rear bumpers/skid plates that you installed? They look pretty pretty good and actually useful.
I run the DE Racing skids like they said.

t-bone Racing is also a great alternative. They have Racing and Bashing skid/bumpers. Also, what really is awesome, they have a lifetime guarantee. Worth a look see. Here is the link:

http://www.t-bone-racing.com/


Originally Posted by Racerx336 View Post
They are made by DE racing. I like the front bumper/skid combo and used it on my buggy, but I am not a fan of the rear skids personally. They tend to catch in holes or on the faces of jumps when the suspension compresses and it causes the car to act inconsistently. There are some people that really like them though.
thats a longshot......but the rear skid is smooth and will only catch if it is damaged and not in its original shape. They are well worth the few bucks to save us VISA/MASTERCARD sponsored drivers the more expensive price of a replacement chassis. My 2 cents.


Originally Posted by ride0012 View Post
Nice. Did you paint that?
Heck no!

this is the same painter that paints a lot of the Pro drivers. I sent him the pictured shells and got them back all within like 5 days. He is fast and very reasonable on prices. Here is that link:

http://www.kustomrcgraphics.com/

Last edited by ABN Hoosier; 10-06-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:32 PM
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Just finished my RC8.2 Tekno V4 build and I encountered two problems, so I came here and see that my rctech friends have already reported the same exact problems.

Problem #1 - I couldn't get full 106mm shock length on the front because the chassis is binding with the front arms and won't allow full droop. I thought this might only be a Tekno chassis issue, but apparently not. Time to break out the dremel on the arms. Has anyone contacted AE support yet to report this and see if there is a fix in the works?

Problem #2 - I get binding in the front and rear gearboxes when snugging up the suspension mount plates. I have had 2 RC8Bes, an RC8Te and an SC8e and I've never encountered this problem before, so I don't know why it's happening now. I can loosen the screws and get rid of the binding, but I don't feel comfortable that the screws are tight enought to prevent problems when runnning it on the track. I called AE and Chris suggested running it in a little to free up the gears and diff case a little. It looks like that worked for at least one other person on this board, so I'll give it a try.

Also, you all probably noticed that the new shock boots don't come with the plastic shock boot washers shown in the manual. According to Chris, you don't need them and that was an error in the manual.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nougat View Post
Also, you all probably noticed that the new shock boots don't come with the plastic shock boot washers shown in the manual. According to Chris, you don't need them and that was an error in the manual.
The new shock boots are really thin and have little to no structure to them. During my first race day the boots would be pushed up after every race, exposing the shock shafts. When you compress the shock the boot stays and the shock returns. I am going to the old boots or no boots.

After 1 race day my rear CVD covers are both torn from hitting the arms and one shock boot ripped.
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by RMKinWI View Post
The new shock boots are really thin and have little to no structure to them. During my first race day the boots would be pushed up after every race, exposing the shock shafts. When you compress the shock the boot stays and the shock returns. I am going to the old boots or no boots.

After 1 race day my rear CVD covers are both torn from hitting the arms and one shock boot ripped.
I had a feeling that the shock boots would be suspect. I haven't ran mine yet. I think the RC8B boots worked better. But Honestly, it doesn't take much time to change out the fluid in the shocks when it gets dirty. Depending on your track of course. Plus, the two O-rings on the bottom of the shock "squeegee" out about 98% of the dirt/dust anyway I would think. Both, the binding of the shocks from the boots malfunctioning and having that on your mind, would most likely increase your lap times I would think. So, when in doubt, run NAKED shocks...


I am contemplating Kyosho shock boots.......


Link to the weird lookin boots that might work pictured above...
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Old 10-06-2011, 03:19 PM
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I might try the shock boots off of my Serpent, they have been really durable and fit really well.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Boot-Set-4

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Old 10-06-2011, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
No problem. I actually enjoyed it. I was just worried I was being annoying because of all the pictures having to affect peoples download to view the page. But like I said before, I started a "RC8.2 Build Thread" and it was deleted.....LOL Anyway, I think this Buggy is going to make a big difference in my driving and for that matter, a lot of folks.

Cheers

-Hoosier
i have to admit the AE kits i've built have been the best and easiest out all the kits i've built.

my mates just gone over to driving AE from Kyosho so i'm keen to drive his and see how different it is to the rc8b, which i had 2 of.

don't stop posting pics bud they make the thread 10x better!

Cheers
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ABN Hoosier View Post
No problem. I actually enjoyed it. I was just worried I was being annoying because of all the pictures having to affect peoples download to view the page. But like I said before, I started a "RC8.2 Build Thread" and it was deleted.....LOL Anyway, I think this Buggy is going to make a big difference in my driving and for that matter, a lot of folks.

Cheers

-Hoosier
I like following your build. Sucks that your build thread was deleted.

I went the route of doing the worlds upgrade and recently switched to 8.2 arms instead of buying a new 8.2. Couldn't wait when there was all this hype on new geometry

Anyways, I love the worlds geometry, but now I'm interested in driving an 8.2. Damn Associated for making the 8.2 slightly different. Now I will always wonder if the 8.2 is that much different than my worlds geometry RC8b
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:13 PM
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How far are you guys screwing in your bump stops for the a arms? Milimeter wise?
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nougat View Post

Problem #2 - I get binding in the front and rear gearboxes when snugging up the suspension mount plates. I have had 2 RC8Bes, an RC8Te and an SC8e and I've never encountered this problem before, so I don't know why it's happening now. I can loosen the screws and get rid of the binding, but I don't feel comfortable that the screws are tight enought to prevent problems when runnning it on the track. I called AE and Chris suggested running it in a little to free up the gears and diff case a little. It looks like that worked for at least one other person on this board, so I'll give it a try.
Check to make sure that the pinion bearings are seated fully in the diff cases. Leave the diffs assembled and pull on the CVD to seat the bearing fully. I pressed them in like I have on every other AE kit I have built and they still had a very tight/crunchy mesh between the diff and the pinion gears. I yanked on the CVD's and it seated another 2-3mm into the housing and freed up the diffs. The 8.2 housings have a much tighter fit for the bearings.
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:25 PM
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So how do these cars drive? Do they feel twitchy or do they drive flat and planted?
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Old 10-06-2011, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Racerx336 View Post
Check to make sure that the pinion bearings are seated fully in the diff cases. Leave the diffs assembled and pull on the CVD to seat the bearing fully. I pressed them in like I have on every other AE kit I have built and they still had a very tight/crunchy mesh between the diff and the pinion gears. I yanked on the CVD's and it seated another 2-3mm into the housing and freed up the diffs. The 8.2 housings have a much tighter fit for the bearings.
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.
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