Racerx336

iTrader: (37)

Check to make sure you don't have any bent driveshafts or severely out of balance wheels on the front of your car when you lose those screws. I have never had a problem with the screws backing out unless there was something creating an excess amount of vibration in the front.

I used blue loctite and tightened with my electric driver until the clutched kicked in, then gave her another 1/8 of a turn by hand.

akiyama77

iTrader: (13)

Wow sure wasn't expecting this kind of wear, I've heard some are using Kyosho drives, any other fixes? guess I'll be ordering sets twice a month

Square Wheels

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I never considered the screws might have some oil on them for rust prevention. I'll clean that stuff off from now on.

FWIW, my outdrives and drive shafts look fine. This is with an RX8 ESC / 1900kv T8 motor in it. Probably between 20-25 4S LiPo packs through it.

The car has really been very durable considering how bad my driving is. It has been through some rough crashes.

xxxntwv

iTrader: (18)

This problem was supposed to be a first run problem.I dont have much time on the replacements so I cant say for sure if the problems fixed or not.Someone posted that with a little modification that the hb outdrives fit.

XRC

iTrader: (33)

+1. HB's are a 1mm or so long, just to sit the gear on with the pin in and dremel that excess off.

Two-speed

iTrader: (24)

Anyone know if the FTW body for the 8B will fit the 8.2?

rigger6983

iTrader: (8)

It does, I had to stretch the hole for the rear mount a little bit but it works fine.

AZrc8driver

iTrader: (9)

I keep hearing about these issues about the bone coming out of the cups, but I have almost 3 gallons on my car and I dont see how its possible? Are you running the aluminum hubs?

koreanassasom

iTrader: (17)

have about a gallon on mine no screws coming out and outdrives are very little wear build like a tank cause I hit everything on the track lol

rtlawlor

iTrader: (1)

RC8.2 W/ Team Orion Engine, 2 Airtronics Servos, and custom Purple Anodize parts. I recently put some new Shock towers on, as you can see they have never been ran! I can put on a stock Orion CRF head if needed. And all the stock aluminum blue parts I have and will include with the sell. Also i have a coupe containers full of extra parts i will throw in since i have no need for any AE stuff.

















Al the purple anodize is done though an AEROSPACE MACHINE SHOP, its very very HIGH GRADE. Will last a lot longer then typical RC stuff. As you can see all the blue anodize parts from AE look brand new because they are. Even the Shock inserts, and chase screws. Its been just sitting on my desk looking pretty. Im converting all my cars to Team Durango. I have a b4.1 that looks just as dialed. All purple parts and brand new!


Riley Lawlor
[email protected]

rtlawlor

iTrader: (1)

there is also a Orion receiver batter pack.

heavyjeffd

iTrader: (15)

Certainly does! I've been running them for quite a while now and really like the way they handle! If you are worried about not having enough material behind the body hole, you can always shim the mount forward a few mm and use a longer screw, that's what I did, no problems so far.

LosiPRRACER

how does everyone set their EPA for steering? like without wheels on(ride height) or with (full droop) as with full droop the chubs hit the A-arms.

Tony Corley

iTrader: (10)

I have the aluminum hubs. If I use a 2 dot out in the D plate, it will throw the bones out of the inner shafts on the rear. They don't set deep enough. I am llooking today to determine if a set from the front will solve the issue.

oggietiu

iTrader: (7)

HAs anyone tried this already. I purchased a set and i built it like i am using a standard diff housing. It felt hard to rotate and not as smooth. Do I need to take out the shims or add them?