Ask Aaron Waldron
#946
PM
Casper you have a PM
#947
Tech Adept
alright thx aaron i have to take of my motor and everything still so ill try that. anyother thing it took me like 6 hours to put diff oil in the diff and put it all back togethor. it leaks out the sides of the diff were the universale things come out. and it seems like greace is coming out. is there like anyother way i can like get all the oil out and regreace it faster? its on a s-maxx or does anyone else know. thx
#948
that was my thought too casper, but thanks for confirming it
#949
Casper - That was DIALED.
I always stop my truck by hitting the flywheel.
balla - Are there o-rings that you may be missing? I'm not too familiar with Traxxas diffs but I'll look at some at work tomorrow.
Your best bet would probably be to head to a Maxx-specific board, like MaxxTraxx.
I always stop my truck by hitting the flywheel.
balla - Are there o-rings that you may be missing? I'm not too familiar with Traxxas diffs but I'll look at some at work tomorrow.
Your best bet would probably be to head to a Maxx-specific board, like MaxxTraxx.
#950
Originally posted by Aaron Waldron
Casper - That was DIALED.
Casper - That was DIALED.
seriously though, you were right on casper. i havnt run the car in about 5 days and sure as crap, i just checked and the glow plug is dead as a door nail. gah!
aaron, what do you do to your car after you stop the flywheel that keeps the glow plugs from dying?
#951
Tech Adept
beetle - ALWAYS put the piston in the BDC (bottom dead center). So the plug can cool down.
#954
elvo - That is just a safety precaution for the engine; it allows the piston to be out of the way when the sleeve is cooling down and contracting.
beetle - Nothing special..I just run good fuel :-)
ghostman - I thought it was that good!
beetle - Nothing special..I just run good fuel :-)
ghostman - I thought it was that good!
#956
I'm going up there this Saturday to check out the track and get the layout down, and then I'll be up there Tuesday night for the rest of the week.
#957
are you going saturday for sure. I think that Mike and I are going up early sunday and running all day.
#958
We're gonna go up Saturday morning and run all day. We have to help my mom move on Sunday so that's out..
#959
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Engine Tuning for Dummies....
Ok, I hate being the new guy at anything but here we go.
Aaron,
I'm gonna need (preferably you) as I really want one opinion, but any of you other nitro gurus can free to help me too. I got the engine running last night with factory settings, it didn't run good, but it ran none-the-less. So for the question....
What does each needle do? The big tall one with the copper tube. The little one under the opening of the carb itself. And the one in the swing arm.
You're really going to have to dumb this explination down for me. What does each do and.....
-If it wont idle....what do turn
-it it has no top-end......what to turn
-if it bogs when I really get on it.....what to turn
Thanks!
Aaron,
I'm gonna need (preferably you) as I really want one opinion, but any of you other nitro gurus can free to help me too. I got the engine running last night with factory settings, it didn't run good, but it ran none-the-less. So for the question....
What does each needle do? The big tall one with the copper tube. The little one under the opening of the carb itself. And the one in the swing arm.
You're really going to have to dumb this explination down for me. What does each do and.....
-If it wont idle....what do turn
-it it has no top-end......what to turn
-if it bogs when I really get on it.....what to turn
Thanks!
#960
im no waldron, but i am a demigod in some circles, so allow me to try my hand.
keep in mind im no tuning expert, infact i suck at it, but i do know what each needle does. i just have the finesse of a blind elephant.
FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY BREAK IN YOUR ENGINE PER THE MANUALS INSTRUCTIONS! once you do your engine should be in the right ball park.
the 3 screws as you describe are as follows; the one in the copper tube is the High Speed Needle (HSN) and that controls the air/fuel mixture at full throttle. the second needle, the one in the swing arm is the Low Speed Needle (LSN) and controls the fuel air mixture at idle. the third screw by the carb opening is the idle speed adjustment, which controls the RPM range of the engine at an idle.
first let me say, ive never had to adjust my idle speed. its usually dialed in right out of the box, but thats not always true. you want to keep it low enough (counter clockwise) so that the car wont creep, and high enough (clockwise) so that it doesnt just stall out.
the HSN is the first to be adjusted. turning it clockwise is called Leaning the mixture, which allows more air than fuel to enter, thus burning hotter, and getting more from the engine. if its too Lean, the engine will run inconsistantly and you can damage the engine. in the OS CVR manual it says to run the car in a straight line wide open. turn the HSN 1/8th turn clockwise and run the car again. do this until the car reaches its maximum top speed. if you have a temp sensor its good to stop when your car reaches 230 or 240 degrees F, depending on the engine. when you go too far with the needle the car will produce little or no smoke and run inconsistantly. if this happens simply Richen the mixture, or turn the needle counter clockwise an 1/8th of a turn.
The LSN, or low speed needle, controls the amount of fuel entering the engine at idle. more often than not engines come from the factory with the LSN set rich. this will cause the carb to fill up with fuel (called Loading Up) and stall the engine. if while its still running you try to punch the throttle, it will bog down and acceleration will severely suffer. If this is the case (and it sounds like it is) turn the LSN 1/8th of a turn clockwise (Lean it) until acceleration is smooth. this will also give you a more consistant and smoother idle as well, and prevent nitro from spraying from the tuned pipe when you nail the throttle
i think that about covers it. if im wrong im sure someone will correct me, but i think thats the basics.
keep in mind im no tuning expert, infact i suck at it, but i do know what each needle does. i just have the finesse of a blind elephant.
FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, MAKE SURE YOU PROPERLY BREAK IN YOUR ENGINE PER THE MANUALS INSTRUCTIONS! once you do your engine should be in the right ball park.
the 3 screws as you describe are as follows; the one in the copper tube is the High Speed Needle (HSN) and that controls the air/fuel mixture at full throttle. the second needle, the one in the swing arm is the Low Speed Needle (LSN) and controls the fuel air mixture at idle. the third screw by the carb opening is the idle speed adjustment, which controls the RPM range of the engine at an idle.
first let me say, ive never had to adjust my idle speed. its usually dialed in right out of the box, but thats not always true. you want to keep it low enough (counter clockwise) so that the car wont creep, and high enough (clockwise) so that it doesnt just stall out.
the HSN is the first to be adjusted. turning it clockwise is called Leaning the mixture, which allows more air than fuel to enter, thus burning hotter, and getting more from the engine. if its too Lean, the engine will run inconsistantly and you can damage the engine. in the OS CVR manual it says to run the car in a straight line wide open. turn the HSN 1/8th turn clockwise and run the car again. do this until the car reaches its maximum top speed. if you have a temp sensor its good to stop when your car reaches 230 or 240 degrees F, depending on the engine. when you go too far with the needle the car will produce little or no smoke and run inconsistantly. if this happens simply Richen the mixture, or turn the needle counter clockwise an 1/8th of a turn.
The LSN, or low speed needle, controls the amount of fuel entering the engine at idle. more often than not engines come from the factory with the LSN set rich. this will cause the carb to fill up with fuel (called Loading Up) and stall the engine. if while its still running you try to punch the throttle, it will bog down and acceleration will severely suffer. If this is the case (and it sounds like it is) turn the LSN 1/8th of a turn clockwise (Lean it) until acceleration is smooth. this will also give you a more consistant and smoother idle as well, and prevent nitro from spraying from the tuned pipe when you nail the throttle
i think that about covers it. if im wrong im sure someone will correct me, but i think thats the basics.