Ask Aaron Waldron
02-08-2007, 05:30 PM
#3091
I haven't run 4wd buggy in a while an when I did, it was on a small track with a 9x1 Checkpoint. So I put the smallest pinion on I could and let it rip. 
No idea what the gearing was. But your manual should have a recommendation for where to start.
Modified for under $50 is tough. I don't know of any decent motors in that range. But the money you'll save in replacing brushes constantly will be worth it in the long run. Especially if you go brushless.
No idea what the gearing was. But your manual should have a recommendation for where to start. Modified for under $50 is tough. I don't know of any decent motors in that range. But the money you'll save in replacing brushes constantly will be worth it in the long run. Especially if you go brushless.
02-08-2007, 06:00 PM
#3092
i cant afford brushless right now. and my current 17 turn wont keep up very well.
02-08-2007, 07:38 PM
#3093
this might be a dumb question, but if you replace the brushes of a motor but dont cut the com, will it have the original power or will some be lost? and is there a way to get full original power out of an electric motor without cutting the com? polishing it or something maybe?
02-08-2007, 07:42 PM
#3094
Originally Posted by streetracer745
this might be a dumb question, but if you replace the brushes of a motor but dont cut the com, will it have the original power or will some be lost? and is there a way to get full original power out of an electric motor without cutting the com? polishing it or something maybe?
02-08-2007, 07:53 PM
#3095
how can i get the best performance out of it without cutting the com?
Last edited by streetracer745; 02-08-2007 at 07:53 PM. Reason: mis-spelled word
02-08-2007, 07:53 PM
#3096
I'm VERY anti-comm stick. You stand a chance of pushing the comm out of round, and that will lose more power than you'll gain by cleaning anything off the comm. The most important part of cutting the comm on a lathe is that you will make it round and cylindrical (instead of hourglass shape) and there's nothing a comm stick will do to achieve either of those things.
Jon - You're funny! Haha.
streetracer - You might be better off saving your money to get a good motor setup instead of buying something cheaper in the mean time.
The power of your motor is not always related to how fast you can go around the track. Sometimes, having a faster motor will make you slower on the track.
LOWGEARED - When you're typing up a new post, there's an option to Attach a File under Additional Options, about half-way down the page. You can attach picture files from your computer.
AzBobby - I was pitting in that same row of tables, haha. I can't wait to get back out there...just over a week away!
Jon - You're funny! Haha.
streetracer - You might be better off saving your money to get a good motor setup instead of buying something cheaper in the mean time.
The power of your motor is not always related to how fast you can go around the track. Sometimes, having a faster motor will make you slower on the track.
LOWGEARED - When you're typing up a new post, there's an option to Attach a File under Additional Options, about half-way down the page. You can attach picture files from your computer.
AzBobby - I was pitting in that same row of tables, haha. I can't wait to get back out there...just over a week away!
02-08-2007, 07:58 PM
#3097
Checkpoint or Banzai mods are the best...
If you go to http://banzaimotors.com they sell a CP mod with a custom wind arm with welded tabs for $65 BUT they also will for a limited time include an extra set of brushes (thats a $10 value).
If you must be under $50, go for this:
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...en-S-V2/Detail
It is machine wound and a weaker can, but it has the good aluminum V2 revolution endbell...
If you go to http://banzaimotors.com they sell a CP mod with a custom wind arm with welded tabs for $65 BUT they also will for a limited time include an extra set of brushes (thats a $10 value).
If you must be under $50, go for this:
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...en-S-V2/Detail
It is machine wound and a weaker can, but it has the good aluminum V2 revolution endbell...
02-08-2007, 08:00 PM
#3098
my motor has lost a lot of torque. i mean it used to be able to tear out of the turns. now it just kinda slowly gets up to speed. it desperately needs work. but i dont have a lathe. and im not trying to find somethign cheap. i just want somethign that will last me for a good price. somethign that will last till i get enough for a mamba system.
02-08-2007, 08:15 PM
#3099
looking at that peak, it looks like it is built a lot like the checkpoint. will it last as long as the checkpoint motors? and what about the method R motors. are they any good?
02-08-2007, 08:22 PM
#3100
You get what you pay for.
You might be better off checking with your local hobby shop or the more experienced racers at your local track if they have a lathe and can cut your motor for you for a few bucks. Clean it really well, put on some new brushes, and you'll be good.
You might be better off checking with your local hobby shop or the more experienced racers at your local track if they have a lathe and can cut your motor for you for a few bucks. Clean it really well, put on some new brushes, and you'll be good.
02-08-2007, 08:23 PM
#3101
ive cleaned it real well already. and bout to get new springs and brushes for it. ill try gettign someone to cut it for me.
02-08-2007, 08:27 PM
#3102
Sounds good.
02-08-2007, 08:28 PM
#3103
thanks for the help
02-08-2007, 08:49 PM
#3104
Anytime.
02-09-2007, 07:44 PM
#3105
Hello ,,
Im currently breaking in a xxx-nt sport RTR version.
Imoved it off the Factory settings to get it to run...
But since its prefered in the manual to use factory settings HSN- 3 1/4 counterclock
LSN- 3 counterclock
I did those in full turns right?
Well I put just a smidge of fuel in it to see if it would still fire and it didnt.....
My question is does it need more than a smidge of fuel to fire up?
Theres one more question the factory settings are full turns right?
Im currently breaking in a xxx-nt sport RTR version.
Imoved it off the Factory settings to get it to run...
But since its prefered in the manual to use factory settings HSN- 3 1/4 counterclock
LSN- 3 counterclock
I did those in full turns right?
Well I put just a smidge of fuel in it to see if it would still fire and it didnt.....
My question is does it need more than a smidge of fuel to fire up?
Theres one more question the factory settings are full turns right?