Ask Aaron Waldron
10-02-2005, 12:41 PM
#2566
Registered User
Ok, u guys no i just got an AD1... but i have a few questions...
Now, for the questions. What hopups or parts shold i uy for it right away? DO i need to change any gearing(or should I) for the Fantom? What else do i need to make this thing hardcore for racing, which is all i do? I am used to racing top o da line off road electric modified, so i know I may have to spend some money, but what extra parts, back up parts, etc do i HAVE to have...
thanks
Now, for the questions. What hopups or parts shold i uy for it right away? DO i need to change any gearing(or should I) for the Fantom? What else do i need to make this thing hardcore for racing, which is all i do? I am used to racing top o da line off road electric modified, so i know I may have to spend some money, but what extra parts, back up parts, etc do i HAVE to have...
thanks
10-02-2005, 12:58 PM
#2567
Already got you covered 
10-02-2005, 01:53 PM
#2568
Registered User
Thanks again Aaron. Now, for one more quesiton. I am running on a small track, and was wondering if the Fantom will have too much powerfor it. Should I just stick with the OS .12 CV? I know it dont have too much power, but it should be enough for a small outdoor track right? Or should i just drop the Fantom in>
10-02-2005, 03:02 PM
#2569
I'm a firm believer in having more power than you need...you don't have to use everything you've got!
Obviously, if you're having problems getting through the infield then go ahead and motor down...but time CAN be made up on the straightaway!
Obviously, if you're having problems getting through the infield then go ahead and motor down...but time CAN be made up on the straightaway!
10-02-2005, 06:10 PM
#2570
Tech Initiate
Aaron; both the truck loves to wheelie when traction is there but it is controlable, but it also seems to be nose high in the air all the time. i think this is what causes me so many rear turnbuckle issues as it always lands in its tail. thus my other question on the lungsford/ Rpm setup from above.
when using the grey ballcups do you use the superduty lungsford buckles & studs. and if so do you need to drill & tap 5-40 for the ballstuds.
thanx Derrick
when using the grey ballcups do you use the superduty lungsford buckles & studs. and if so do you need to drill & tap 5-40 for the ballstuds.
thanx Derrick
10-02-2005, 08:37 PM
#2571
Tech Rookie
hey aaron, i was woundering if you can help me out with a setup on the x1 cr. whats your set up that you ran at the dirt saturday for the saturday series? thanks man,
10-02-2005, 08:47 PM
#2572
Tech Adept
Hey Aaron, can you send me a link or your post about building losi diffs. Thanks dude.
10-03-2005, 02:02 AM
#2573
Tech Rookie
Hey Aaron, what's your take on caster settings on dusty hardpack tracks?
I figured that a rule of thumb is that less caster is better for steering as long as the track is smooth. Am I wrong?
I figured that a rule of thumb is that less caster is better for steering as long as the track is smooth. Am I wrong?
10-03-2005, 03:28 AM
#2574
the dirt - here ya go!
When the diff is gritty, it's often the thrust bearing. Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat.
To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.
Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for five seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.
Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual, and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.
Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!
roee - I never really mess with caster..I think there are other adjustments that generally help in a wider range of situations. Caster changes how the car enters the corner and exits the corner. Less caster will have less steering going into the corner, and more coming out of the corner. Too little caster will kill turn-in, and that's bad. Less caster can make the car easier to drive to a certain point, but there are other ways to do that without making the car do funny things coming out of the corner.
BURLING - Here ya go...and by the way, make sure you say hi next time you're at the track!
My setup:
Front
B-block
Shock length 102mm
40 wt. Losi oil
#54 pistons.
Inside on the arm, middle on the tower.
Upper arm middle, ackerman middle hole.
2 degrees negative camber, slight toe-out.
Stock sway-bar
Rear
3.5 degree toe block, 1 degree anti-squat
Shock length 125 mm
27.5 Losi oil
#54 pistons
Hubs all the way back
Shocks middle on the tower, inside on the arm
Camber link outside hole on hub, drilled in the tower (more on this later)
2 degrees negative camber
Stock sway-bar
Diff oils f/c/r 5K/7K/2K
Arms dremeled for maximum downtravel.
For the rear camber link..I have another hole drilled, further inside
than the two rows already on the shock tower. I am running what would
be in between the bottom two holes on the stock "inside row". Adam is
currently using what would be one hole up from that. You've gotta dremel
some stuff back there (diff case) to get clearance.
dprior - I run the Trinity front pivot block for the weight it adds..it'll help the truck jump better. Lately we've been messing around with adding a little weight..I ran 1/2 ounce at Hemet on Saturday to get more on-power steering, and it will change the way the truck jumps as well.
Make sure you cut your body out...both side windows, the left half of the windshield, and the engine compartment. The faster air can escape from under the body, the better the truck will jump; just don't make the body so weak that it breaks apart.
Both mine and Adam's trucks would wheelie like a top fuel dragster 2/3 of the way down the straight at Hemet on Saturday. Kinda scary, but pretty darn cool lookin!
I'm running Losi titanium ballstuds and Losi's gray HD ballcups on my truck. In the rear, I'm using the Lunsford Heavy Duty turnbuckles and a Mugen captured end (C6010A) on the rear shock tower. You do have to tap the ballcups a little bit for the larger turnbuckles.
When the diff is gritty, it's often the thrust bearing. Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat.
To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.
Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for five seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.
Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual, and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.
Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!
roee - I never really mess with caster..I think there are other adjustments that generally help in a wider range of situations. Caster changes how the car enters the corner and exits the corner. Less caster will have less steering going into the corner, and more coming out of the corner. Too little caster will kill turn-in, and that's bad. Less caster can make the car easier to drive to a certain point, but there are other ways to do that without making the car do funny things coming out of the corner.
BURLING - Here ya go...and by the way, make sure you say hi next time you're at the track!
My setup:
Front
B-block
Shock length 102mm
40 wt. Losi oil
#54 pistons.
Inside on the arm, middle on the tower.
Upper arm middle, ackerman middle hole.
2 degrees negative camber, slight toe-out.
Stock sway-bar
Rear
3.5 degree toe block, 1 degree anti-squat
Shock length 125 mm
27.5 Losi oil
#54 pistons
Hubs all the way back
Shocks middle on the tower, inside on the arm
Camber link outside hole on hub, drilled in the tower (more on this later)
2 degrees negative camber
Stock sway-bar
Diff oils f/c/r 5K/7K/2K
Arms dremeled for maximum downtravel.
For the rear camber link..I have another hole drilled, further inside
than the two rows already on the shock tower. I am running what would
be in between the bottom two holes on the stock "inside row". Adam is
currently using what would be one hole up from that. You've gotta dremel
some stuff back there (diff case) to get clearance.
dprior - I run the Trinity front pivot block for the weight it adds..it'll help the truck jump better. Lately we've been messing around with adding a little weight..I ran 1/2 ounce at Hemet on Saturday to get more on-power steering, and it will change the way the truck jumps as well.
Make sure you cut your body out...both side windows, the left half of the windshield, and the engine compartment. The faster air can escape from under the body, the better the truck will jump; just don't make the body so weak that it breaks apart.
Both mine and Adam's trucks would wheelie like a top fuel dragster 2/3 of the way down the straight at Hemet on Saturday. Kinda scary, but pretty darn cool lookin!
I'm running Losi titanium ballstuds and Losi's gray HD ballcups on my truck. In the rear, I'm using the Lunsford Heavy Duty turnbuckles and a Mugen captured end (C6010A) on the rear shock tower. You do have to tap the ballcups a little bit for the larger turnbuckles.
10-03-2005, 09:15 AM
#2575
Registered User
Aaron, i have a chance to trade for a Kanai RTR buggy with brand new motor, bbut i wuld be giving my AD to the guy.... with two motors, what do u thinhk? I havent even run the AD yet, but i have so much for it alredy, and I have always wanted to try 8th scale, but.... i just dont know what to do
10-03-2005, 01:20 PM
#2576
Call me biased and I'm sure I'll probably get bashed for it..but Kyosho's RTR buggy isn't anywhere near the level of their racing kits..and it's really not one of the best RTR's on the market either.
10-03-2005, 01:35 PM
#2577
Tech Addict
Before I say this I want yall to know that I run a kyosho...I would get a Jammin X1 if you want an RTR.But I would stay away from kyosho RTR's like Aaron said IMO.Well a Sportweks Mayhem isn't that bad of an RTR either.
10-03-2005, 07:21 PM
#2578
Tech Rookie
hey thanks aaron, i will probably see you at the sidewinder race. do you run close to this set up for kz too?i also wanted to know how you measure for the holes in the rear. i seen adams and they are drilled perfect. you just use a dremel?
10-04-2005, 12:37 AM
#2579
It's best to use a drill press if you have access to one.
I run that same setup everywhere I go, and make adjustments if I need to. I'll let you know if I change anything this weekend while we're at the track.
I run that same setup everywhere I go, and make adjustments if I need to. I'll let you know if I change anything this weekend while we're at the track.
