Ask Aaron Waldron
#1636
kj - I don't know what gave it away..haha.
jbrow - The nickel plating won't last as long as chrome regardless of heat.
mafia - That "gooey nonsense" is unburnt fuel and oil. I don't really have that problem with Trinity fuel
JCathey - I'm running a Jammin header and JP-1 on my Sirios and that combo rocks; there's tons of power on tap and the pipe has taken a TON of club-racing abuse.
jbrow - The nickel plating won't last as long as chrome regardless of heat.
mafia - That "gooey nonsense" is unburnt fuel and oil. I don't really have that problem with Trinity fuel
JCathey - I'm running a Jammin header and JP-1 on my Sirios and that combo rocks; there's tons of power on tap and the pipe has taken a TON of club-racing abuse.
#1637
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
jbrow - The nickel plating won't last as long as chrome regardless of heat.
AW, how do you set your brakes up? Lots, middle, or just a touch of drag brake? When I watch Horne drive, his truck just turns on a dime and is off again. In reality I know it's just you guys are that great of drivers, and are super good on the throttle/brake control. Not to mention coming into the corner at the correct speed. Track time, that's what I need.
Last edited by jbrow1; 12-04-2004 at 08:47 PM.
#1638
Tech Adept
Thanks fellas,
One more question (hey, this thread does say ASK Aaron Waldron )
Since i'm such a stupid newb, i was thinking of changing my shock pistons/springs/oil.
I have a few sets of various pistons i want to try, all i want is ideas of where to start.
I normally drive on fairly hard packed track with a dusty surface, it's got big jumps, cause it's a BMX track.
Just wondering if you could give me an idea of what pistons (i.e. amount/size of holes), what oil (wt obviously) and perhaps springs for my buggy.
Thanks
One more question (hey, this thread does say ASK Aaron Waldron )
Since i'm such a stupid newb, i was thinking of changing my shock pistons/springs/oil.
I have a few sets of various pistons i want to try, all i want is ideas of where to start.
I normally drive on fairly hard packed track with a dusty surface, it's got big jumps, cause it's a BMX track.
Just wondering if you could give me an idea of what pistons (i.e. amount/size of holes), what oil (wt obviously) and perhaps springs for my buggy.
Thanks
#1639
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
If you're just bashing, and doing a lot of BIG jumping like it sounds like you're doing, then you're going to want a lot of "pack" in your whole suspension. "Pack" will help the car land and wont bottom out so easily. Small pistons, fairly heavy weight oil, and external limiters or a lot of travel would be your best bet.
You didn't say what car you're running, but I'd go with Losi #57 front and rear with 40+ weight oil. If you run ext.limiters, then put maybe a quarter of an inch of fuel tubing on the spring retaining cup....or....no limiter and unthread the shock ends a few turns to increase total travel.
You didn't say what car you're running, but I'd go with Losi #57 front and rear with 40+ weight oil. If you run ext.limiters, then put maybe a quarter of an inch of fuel tubing on the spring retaining cup....or....no limiter and unthread the shock ends a few turns to increase total travel.
#1640
I would try to get more down-travel. Bump stops can cause more problems than they're worth, it's alright if the chassis hits the ground.
I've never built a pair of Kyosho shocks, so I don't know what pistons to run. I'd try 40 or 50 wt. oil just for kicks and go from there.
jbrow - My truck has enough drag brake to start slowing the car down once I let off the throttle. At full brake, I have enough dialed into the car to completely lock up the rear tires. I tend to really only use my brakes in traffic and in the air, and slow the car down by throwing it into the corner, Steve Kinser style
I've never built a pair of Kyosho shocks, so I don't know what pistons to run. I'd try 40 or 50 wt. oil just for kicks and go from there.
jbrow - My truck has enough drag brake to start slowing the car down once I let off the throttle. At full brake, I have enough dialed into the car to completely lock up the rear tires. I tend to really only use my brakes in traffic and in the air, and slow the car down by throwing it into the corner, Steve Kinser style
#1641
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
corect pipe
Aaron I too am curious about the jammin pipes. I have and older rzv-099 and will probably stick with O.S. if I buy a new motor. which jammin or ofna pipe would suite these motors the best. I have ran the 10077 mid range in the past and it seems smooth all around. I was leaning toward the jp-2 because of the smaller 1/10 scale track we race on.
#1642
If it's a small track, the bottom end of the JP-1 would get you from corner to corner faster.
#1643
O.S. engines are also known for working great with the O.S. 2050 pipe. The pipe is pretty expensive but if you are looking at a V-spec down the road, it might be worth it. I've heard great things about the JP-1 too, seems to work on every motor out there.
#1645
Where can i find an ODONNEL Head for my os 12 and are they reall really expensive?
#1648
Other way around. Jp1 is for torque and Jp2 is top end. A way top add versatility is to get a topend pipe like the Jp2 or an 086 and keep a waller power adapter handy. Top end pipes are short but if you add length (the adapter) it increases torque, generally.
#1649
Tech Elite
iTrader: (22)
Who's an Idiot?....This Guy!
So....I've been hearing from a lot of the nitro guys at my track about porting and polishing the piston sleeve for more overall power......you already know where this is going.....so, I found an article on it in one of my old XRC magazines and decided to go for it. I had all the correct tools, so I thought I was dialed. What I didn't know or care to look for was the which "exactly" of the 4 ports to port......ehhh, ya.....so, I go at it on the exhaust port.
Get this, before doing this, I had never really inspected the sleeve to see which port goes where and what goes through each one. In the picture, It looked like he was grinding the big long hole....not the two smaller ones on either side of that. OOPS!
I must commend myself on my craftsmanship, the tear-drop cut out looks amazing if I do say so myself....but...its in the wrong place. So now, I have to go out and buy a new sleeve.....and do it all over again!
If tuning a nitro engine was anything like my electric motors, I'd be set....but to my surprise, its not and far more costly! OH WELL....
If anyone has any advise on porting and polishing, it would be most apprecieated.
later,
-the idiot.
Get this, before doing this, I had never really inspected the sleeve to see which port goes where and what goes through each one. In the picture, It looked like he was grinding the big long hole....not the two smaller ones on either side of that. OOPS!
I must commend myself on my craftsmanship, the tear-drop cut out looks amazing if I do say so myself....but...its in the wrong place. So now, I have to go out and buy a new sleeve.....and do it all over again!
If tuning a nitro engine was anything like my electric motors, I'd be set....but to my surprise, its not and far more costly! OH WELL....
If anyone has any advise on porting and polishing, it would be most apprecieated.
later,
-the idiot.
#1650
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Mafia, whoever is telling you to port and polish, is getting beat by motors that are untouched (Jeff, and Gary and myself to name a few). Badly.
I would recommend first understanding the 2-stroke engine cycle and more specifically how fuel/air mixture flows into and out of your CV's expansion chamber, what in the stock design limits the performance, why they designed it that way, what you are trying to do by modifying the ports/piston/block/conrod, where the most gains come from, the list goes on and on.
The biggest problem is that 1+1 does not always equal 2 when it comes to people giving motor advice. The bottom line is you could chop up a CV all day and it still won't give the smooth bottom end and screaming top-end some motors do right out of the box because they were designed right in the first place.
What up A-dub......didn't mean to butt in like that....
I would recommend first understanding the 2-stroke engine cycle and more specifically how fuel/air mixture flows into and out of your CV's expansion chamber, what in the stock design limits the performance, why they designed it that way, what you are trying to do by modifying the ports/piston/block/conrod, where the most gains come from, the list goes on and on.
The biggest problem is that 1+1 does not always equal 2 when it comes to people giving motor advice. The bottom line is you could chop up a CV all day and it still won't give the smooth bottom end and screaming top-end some motors do right out of the box because they were designed right in the first place.
What up A-dub......didn't mean to butt in like that....