R/C Tech Forums - OS Speed drivability

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- - OS Speed drivability (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/259684-os-speed-drivability.html)

Well I guess it is the 2060 I will try next, along with the readjusted mid needle and see how it goes. I knew that there would be a solution to this. The speed is to popular, and with the price tag it carries, it has to be as smooth as everone says it is. I am intersted in a winter time eb mods head insert, but I would like to find a driveable solution to the speed I am running before looking for more hp. Lets talk mechanical pinch. Like I said I purchase the engine with my truggy which was said to be 1 1\2 gallons old (truck and engine). I keep hearing about the engine loosening up and the pinch going away around 2 gallons. What is exactly ment by that? With the plug out, my engine has a slight amount of tdc pinch. Very easy to turn by hand. It has performed excellent since I have had it. Besides being a bit squirley it is fast with alot of bottom end for a .21. When is a good time to either replace the piston and sleeve or get a pinch (which a pinch is what i am leaning to since the last pinch I got worked really well. The rod on this engine was supposedly replaced after break in so it can't be many gallons old (2 gallons at most) ). I would like to get this engine in tip top shape for next summer as I plan on running alot of races on it.

I wouldn't touch that mid needle. I have seen a few guys try it and it never seems to come out well....

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpalessi (Post 5162669)

Hobdog.. The 2060 pipe WILL do the trick. if you already have the 2050, i would suggest getting the ninja 2042 pipe which is the same as the OS 2060, but it's available pipe only, and a lil cheaper... buy the pipe only and use the L header from your 2050.. :nod:
The clutch your running is fine, providing it's new and works free with NO binding. I would run the 2060/2042 w/ L header, P4 plug, and a 8mm stack.
The EB head button available from www.Tonysscrews.com is a great option for anyone looking for bolt on power. The button will not affect run-time or drive-ability...As you can see in the dyno graph on the http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...en-jx21-6.html thread the power-band is very smooth and consistent. The mid range needle can be used to adjust power curve if you are an experienced tuner..

Here is a good starting point as far as setting..
IDLE: 1 full turn from just closed
LSN: 4-1/2 turns from closed
MRN: 3-3/4 turns from closed "flush" 10 o'clock
HSN: 3 turns from closed

Tune your engine on the money with the HSN & LSN, shouldn't have to touch the idle much more then an hour if at all. THEN
If you wanna adjust the mid,,, If you want more low end, lean your LSN an hour and richen your MRN an hour.... vis-versa ...the MRN and LSN work together..

Hope this helps! Good Luck!
ps. the eb BP has no major +affect on any other OS other then the EB V spec which is no longer available.

So after figuring out that the msn was way to rich, I enjoyed many gallons out of my speed this summer and winter. I am freshening up the piston, sleeve and conrod for the up and coming season. Are those #s for a new stock out of box ready to break in speed or are those #s close to what a already broke in engine should be at. I am getting ready to break this thing in and am wonder where to start as far as settings. Also your idle says " one full turn from just closed" I am assuming this means the carb slide closed without the restrictor in? Any advice would be appriciated. I would like to break this thing in real easy and consistant with the ab mods heat cycle method I read about on these forums.

Those numbers are for an engine that has been broken in. These are the stock settings that a brand new carb would have on the Speed:
HSN: 3.5 turns
LSN: 5.25 turns
Mid: Flush with carb body

Idle needle is one full turn from fully closed with no restrictor in place.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlo8864 (Post 5163068)

what breakin method do you use on the speed, one post earlier said they got 9 gallons, i would be happy to get 4, let me hear from ya.

jlo

My speed started to flame out in it's 10th gallon. Put a new pair of tko's and a new p/s/r with the eb modded head button and back plate. It rips better than new. Shopping for a 2nd motor, but i'll always have a speed. It never stops pulling. Thinking about adding a pro mod v spec and a eb mods go engine. Ran other motors in my 8t and when i go back to the speed i can't figure out why i gave it a rest. I hear jx .21 about the same, but until i see it....

Quote:

Originally Posted by hambone (Post 5435610)

Rob jaylude is correct the idle should be 1 full turn from JUST closed with no stack..
Also you'll get to see both the EBM5, and the EBJX run at Motorama. Ed will be running the EBM5, and i'll be running the EBJX.. The JX is VERY similar to the "Speed" at a cheaper price, with better reliability. See you next week! ;)

Thanks for the info guys. Since you all have broke in speeds before, were you able to get them started for the first time with these stock settings and idle gap, or what did you need to lean out to get them to start and run fat for break in? Let's say they seem to fat to get going, would your first thing to do be to lean the lsn to get it to start? Just asking, because that is were I would go first to get it to fire, and then if the idle was to high or low I would adjust from there. Let me know if this is the process of the pros or just a plumber trying to break in a engine. THX!

I find that stock settings need to be changed in order for the engine to idle. Once the idle gap is set, you should be able to set the idle by adjusting the LSN. When it idles correctly, your LSN should be within the range. HSN may need to be leaned out a little, but won't make as much difference as the low until you start getting the car moving, giving it throttle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaylude22 (Post 5437052)

Thanks Jason!