Thanks for the info Maxixmo. Like I said I am running max life shoes with 1.0 springs. I am thinking a sooner engagement or carbon shoes might help a bit. The Jammin x2 is definitly a lot lighter then my mugen and so far has proven much more difficult to drive. I have been messing with setup and it has gotten better, but it is still real twitchy on the rough tracks. Does anyone know the stock setting on the needles for the speed? I bought it used and have not touched the middle needle but who knows what the guy before me did. What about the eb 2041 for a pipe? I cannot find any info on this besides people saying they like it. Is it a low end, midrange, or high end pipe?

Here are the stock needle settings, they're quite rich at 550 ft.
HSN: 3.5 turns
LSN: 5.25 turns
Mid: Flush with carb body

Thanks, On the mid do you play with the setting much or do most people just leave it and use the standard lsn and hsn. I have never messed with a three needle carb.

For the most part, most people leave the mid needle alone. Not really any need to mess with it. If you stick to using just the HSN and LSN, the O.S. engines are about the easiest to tune.

+1 definately leave the mid range needle alone. I have seen way to many problems caused by people messing with that needle. Leave her set at flush and you will be fine. I don't know what you would call a 2041 as far as a low end or high end pipe but you can check out the dyno results on the EB site.
www.ebmods.com

I beleive Hobog's motor came with his X2, so its possible the previous owner had tweaked the needles.....

I just checked the mid needle and it was 3\4 to 1 turn out(rich). Maybe this explains the the so called lag I was trying to explain. It wasn't like it was a bog, it just really exploded when it got on the pipe. So maybe it was loading up in the mid and then when it finally cleared out it was making it hit real hard. Just a theory, I would love to try it out but it just snowed a few inches today.

The eb mods 2041 pipe is a little stronger on the bottom compared to the 2060. You can go to ebmods.com and compare dyno graphs of the v spec with both pipes. 2041 will be listed as a mielke 2041.

Hobdog.. The 2060 pipe WILL do the trick. if you already have the 2050, i would suggest getting the ninja 2042 pipe which is the same as the OS 2060, but it's available pipe only, and a lil cheaper... buy the pipe only and use the L header from your 2050.. :nod:
The clutch your running is fine, providing it's new and works free with NO binding. I would run the 2060/2042 w/ L header, P4 plug, and a 8mm stack.
The EB head button available from www.Tonysscrews.com is a great option for anyone looking for bolt on power. The button will not affect run-time or drive-ability...As you can see in the dyno graph on the http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...en-jx21-6.html thread the power-band is very smooth and consistent. The mid range needle can be used to adjust power curve if you are an experienced tuner..

Here is a good starting point as far as setting..
IDLE: 1 full turn from just closed
LSN: 4-1/2 turns from closed
MRN: 3-3/4 turns from closed "flush" 10 o'clock
HSN: 3 turns from closed

Tune your engine on the money with the HSN & LSN, shouldn't have to touch the idle much more then an hour if at all. THEN
If you wanna adjust the mid,,, If you want more low end, lean your LSN an hour and richen your MRN an hour.... vis-versa ...the MRN and LSN work together..

Hope this helps! Good Luck!
ps. the eb BP has no major +affect on any other OS other then the EB V spec which is no longer available.

what breakin method do you use on the speed, one post earlier said they got 9 gallons, i would be happy to get 4, let me hear from ya.

jlo

I have a couple of Speeds and I stop counting at 10 gal. For the money, they are some of the best engines on the market. And yeah I said for the money.....

are you saying 10 gal, with no rebuild, thats awsome, what breakin method do you use and what temps do you run

+1

We heat cycle them on a break in station, for about 30-40 mins straight.

No, I am saying 10+ gallons!! And the only screw I turned was the fuel screw. I was hobby stupid and thought it would run forever and I almost think it would. A friend finally convinced me it would die one day, so I bought another one and rebuilt the old one.... Just heat cycle it. Pro Twister breaks them in for me on a stand now but the in-car heat cycling will work. I was running it 185 - 200.