ive never broken a shock tower on a truggy,the V2 Tower is just for the added upper shock mounting holes, it has 2 extra camber link positions too. as far as buggy shock towers breaking, they made the first run of towers to thin so they broke, i actually broke mine the first lap out when the 2.0 first came out. since then i havent broke one and ive tested it a lot LOL. im not saying they wont break but they are pretty strong.

It would have to be a verry verry hard crash to break a shock tower.
I have never broken or even bent one and Ive never seen anybody break one.

Thanks guys I'll probably forget about the towers for now!

If you race on a consistent basis the V2 tower is worth it. The camber link holes is what I enjoy about them.

The truck will rotate much better with the V2 tower by just standing the rear-shocks up in the outer hole. One of the best improvements you can do to the truck.

+1.
I couldn't agree more.
the rotation with the V2 tower has made me a more confident driver and has helped improved my lap times..

Yea like I said i'll wait on the towers, but good info on them. I was breaking in my 8ight today and fuel was spitting out from threads/sides of the glow plug, never seen anything like it. I seen the orange washer on there, although I'm going to try a different plug and go from there. Hopefully its not the engine itself, maybe to rich? Even rich it shouldn't do that. Just sharing a weird incident..

Was the plug loose? If not, I would try another plug and make sure you've got the copper washer on it. If it is still an issue, the head button could be faulty. If that's the case, you will need to contact Horizon Hobby and they will get you sorted. Even with a very rich tune, there should be no leakage there!

As for shock towers, are you asking for the buggy, truggy or both? If you're asking for the truggy, I highly recommend the V2 rear tower and if you want it, a standard Race Roller front tower. For the buggy, the stock Race Roller towers would be fine. If you want to shave a bit of weight off, the carbon fiber towers are sweet, but not quite as durable as the RR aluminum towers. I would wait till you bend one on the buggy. The only one I would say is a must have is the V2 truggy rear. It makes a pretty big handling difference.:nod:

what plug, standard or turbo? either way i would check to see if its tight, i make it a habit to make sure my glow plug is tight before i start it, ive had one back out and cause a tuning night mare. if its standard it could just be the gasket, if its turbo its most likely your head button, but try a new plug its worth a shot. if it still leaks get a new head button your prob only looking at like $40 .

Gotta argree with losi racer.
you need to let us know what engine and head type regular/turbo.
By what you said aboutthe copper plug ring Im going with regular so you might want to verry carfully clean the top of the head button being sure not to let an grit into the head then try a new plug with a new washer.
If it still leaks then you have either cross threaded your glow hole or it is faulty.
and a New head button would be the only fix for it..
sorry to be the bearer of bad news but your better safe than sorry.

Thanks for the advice and tip. Like I said I'll try a new plug (non turbo) and if it don't work. you can get new button heads for $10 bucks, but might as well get the turbo head conversion for $16! SO I'm not out that bad, but hoping it's the plug. It's the 350 by the way..

does anyone else have a problem with the front camber links not being able to go to the very bottom hole on the shock tower? the link hits the diff case...:confused:

Yep. It's the same way on the Losi Latemodel too. A little dremel work and it will be fine.

check out page four........

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/losr2300manual.pdf

It's like that if you use the inside hole for the rear camber link too. Dremel the rod end or the case just a little bit. It does not take much to free it up. I dremel the case.