Having trouble finding a Losi 1.0 Buggy thread on this site. Any links other than the Losi website?

There's one around somewhere, but it doesn't get much activity. I would just use the 8ight 2.0 buggy thread. Most of the guys that run the 2.0 have run the 1.0 so we should be able to help you out.;)

Thanks Jammin. So the big questtion that will answer most of my other questions is; what are the differences between the 1.0 buggy and the 2.0 buggy?

There is alot of small things but the main stuff is the longer chassis and shimable rear diff. Stiffer radio tray, 3.5mm outer hing pins, rear hubs are different, better fuel tank, lighter shock towers, tft chassis just to name a few.

On the buggy I'm not to sure, I know the front shocks, chassis, radio tray, shock towers..
Here's my converted 1.0..I do know what the differences between the truggies are..

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/5b6e976c.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/cf40e0b9.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...6/971370a6.jpg

Will the 2.0 tank fit the 1.0 chassis? What are the differences?
Would it be better to get a 2.0 rear diff instead of rebuilding a 1.0 diff? That way I can shim it as it gets loose?

Dave the tank fits the difference is the springs. And the diff is the same too the gearbox is a little different and use the alum gearbox inserts these help prevent the r/p mesh from moving. Many parts are the same but there are a few different ones. That diff case will drop right in. A chassis and rear center driveline and you have a 1.5. Your son looked pretty good with it though. Looks like it ran good to me. Biggestthing is practice and track time.

ya as Frank said the taank will drop in no prob. As ffor the rear diff it is up to you. I never had a probs with the 1.0 but being able to shim it is also nice. It is a cheap update so I say go for it. I would also get the 2.0 radio and 2.0 linkage kit. It is alot better then the 1.0 tray, the only mod you have to do is cut out your mud guard a little for the servo to clear.

Also get the 2.0 rear hubs and hing pins, the 1.0 ones bend just looking at them. If you use 1.0 rear arms you will have to drill them out to take the bigger hing pin. I liked the 1.0 shock towers better so I never changed them.

hello everybody, for the chassis is that BCE is worthwhile to compare an original

The BCE chassis excells on the rough tracks it makes the car go through the rough stuff easier. On smooth tracks I don't think it has much benefit but they do handle different than the stock. I have been running them for a littlemover a yr now and I like them. I'll prob put one on the Mugen I am rung now.

Thanks for the info Frank! He did do Ok for driving the car for the second time and never racing before. On his last 2 laps, his rear diff went out and I just told him to finish the race. He was winning it but got passed in those last 2 laps. Bumped to the B main, but couldn't race it because of the diff. He's from the SEGA/Nintendo generation, so he'll pick it up quick.

Anyway, bought a 2.0 complete rear diff and some aluminum inserts for the buggy. I shimmed the old diff hella tight for practice this week. Probably only last a tank or two.

Did I give you your 7mm OS restrictor yesterday?

Yes you did give me the restrictor. Glad to help.

hey guys, i was wondering if there was any difference between the 1.0 spindles and hub carriers to the 2.0?....i know the rear hubs are different cause its obvious....thanks in advance guys

The front hub carriers and spindles from a 1.0 work on a 2.0, uses the same pins..

maybe its me but the 2.0 spindles seem to have more throw from the 1.0.

Ran out of the 2.0 spindle.

Was running one 1.0 and one 2.0, the 2.0 side had more turn-in.