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-   -   8T 2.0 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-off-road/256312-8t-2-0-a.html)

bigjayjay1 09-02-2010 10:23 AM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 7889460)
I'm going to try the xray diff tonight and post my findings and pics.....

This reminds me of when I was having problems with my E converstion turns out it was a bad bracket it was a production error which was very fustrating.

air8 09-02-2010 10:57 AM

What bracket tho?

pyromania 09-02-2010 12:33 PM


Originally Posted by mason elliott (Post 7887703)
hey i dont get y ur car looks clean then right in the middle the steering rod end ball is caked? lazy hahaha:smile::blush:
and r u guys goin out to rev for nitrohouse / labor day race?

:lol::lol::lol:

I saw that. Right after I took the pics the steering assembly got a nice cleaning.

Actually we're not going to the nitrohouse race.:cry: If you guys go, good luck and take the win. :D

damang999 09-02-2010 12:49 PM


Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7889316)
Are you using the entire x ray diff, ring and pinion. Does it just drop right in? Any mods?

yeah mate complete diff xray crown with losi pinion no mods at all...the xray active diff will fit though its real tight and hard to shim correctly

damang999 09-02-2010 12:59 PM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 7888422)
I can't just use the Xray outdrives?

no they dont fit the losi diff case they have a slight differnce in the lenght and cant get the little internal pin in the outdrive once its in the case.

Frank L 09-02-2010 01:11 PM

Ok I'll just stick with the losi stuff. They just always make a nasty noise but they work.

damang999 09-02-2010 01:24 PM


Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7890161)
Ok I'll just stick with the losi stuff. They just always make a nasty noise but they work.

i would stick with it to if i could. mines not noisy at all i even used a secondhand crown and pinion.

Frank L 09-02-2010 01:51 PM


Originally Posted by damang999 (Post 7890207)
i would stick with it to if i could. mines not noisy at all i even used a secondhand crown and pinion.

Man I have shimmed and renshimmex and replaced r/p/case/bearings and n matter what I do my truck is noisy.

JAMMINKRAZY 09-02-2010 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7890295)
Man I have shimmed and renshimmex and replaced r/p/case/bearings and n matter what I do my truck is noisy.

Shim it tight and let it grind. It will wear in and quiet up quite a bit. These are steel gears though, so they are always going to make some noise. Running a generous amount of a good quality sticky grease(Mobil 1 red) helps quite a bit too.:nod:

Frank L 09-02-2010 02:24 PM


Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 7890374)
Shim it tight and let it grind. It will wear in and quiet up quite a bit. These are steel gears though, so they are always going to make some noise. Running a generous amount of a good quality sticky grease(Mobil 1 red) helps quite a bit too.:nod:

I use the mobile 1 grease on the r/p but i shim it so its free. That might bge where the noise is coming from.

Vareck 09-02-2010 02:34 PM


Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY (Post 7886182)
34mm;)



Fresh oils and boots. Seals and bladders as needed.;)

Not that often if you know how to build shocks properly!!!!!!!!!!!

I find it funny that when a REAL FACTORY DRIVER comes on these threads and posts what he does the WANNA BE FACTORY DRIVERS try and argue with them. What a joke there is a reason these guys ARE Factory Drivers and YOU aren't so quit arguing with them, and maybe more of the REAL FACTORY DRIVERS would come on here and help!!!!!!!!!!!!:batman:
Friery I totally agree with you!!!!!!!!!

JAMMINKRAZY 09-02-2010 04:21 PM


Originally Posted by Frank L (Post 7890402)
I use the mobile 1 grease on the r/p but i shim it so its free. That might bge where the noise is coming from.

Shim them tight. They'll last better and be nice n quite when they wear in. Not too tight, but as tight as you can get them while still spinning freely. That seems to get me the best results.;)


Originally Posted by Vareck (Post 7890438)
Not that often if you know how to build shocks properly!!!!!!!!!!!

I find it funny that when a REAL FACTORY DRIVER comes on these threads and posts what he does the WANNA BE FACTORY DRIVERS try and argue with them. What a joke there is a reason these guys ARE Factory Drivers and YOU aren't so quit arguing with them, and maybe more of the REAL FACTORY DRIVERS would come on here and help!!!!!!!!!!!!:batman:
Friery I totally agree with you!!!!!!!!!

I've been doing this awhile bud. I know how to build shocks.;)

Take a step back and read what I posted.:rolleyes:

Where am I arguing with anyone?:confused:

He posted that his shocks were 4 months old. Obviously the oils aren't. Unless they've been sitting on the shelf for 4 months. Silicone breaks down and thins out, IE it needs to be changed pretty often. If losi boots lasted 4 months, I'd be SHOCKED. Mine usually tear after a couple runs. As for the rest, that is what I was ASKING him about. Where do you see arguing?:weird: LMAO:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Integra 09-02-2010 05:07 PM

Im kinda confused as well......:weird:

jmackani 09-02-2010 06:05 PM


Originally Posted by Toiffel (Post 7884890)
So far I have replaced with new parts:

Hinge pin braces inner and outer
Hinge pins
Arms
Bearings
Hub Carrier
Spindle
Dog bone
Outdrive cups

Tonight:

Diff case
Diff Housing
and going to shim the diff

Are you sure you bought the parts for the 2.0 cvd's? There is a difference in length compared to the 1.0.

Toiffel 09-02-2010 06:29 PM


Originally Posted by jmackani (Post 7891236)
Are you sure you bought the parts for the 2.0 cvd's? There is a difference in length compared to the 1.0.

I went back and checked, unless they were packaged incorrectly I'm using the right ones.....


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