John Schafer

iTrader: (2)

I've never had a problem with the ring and pinion, however propper assembly is required. In the rear I use the Aluminum diff housing inserts. Shim the diff with little to no side play and set the mesh so that just a slight notchy feeling on the high teeth. Re-shim or check it again after a few tanks and try to keep just a very slight notchy feeling in the gears. Usually there are just a couple of high spots in the teeth. I'm sure you know that the housing has to be assembled and tightend together to get an accurate feel for the mesh. No Back Lash !

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Very important to shim the rear diff correctly usually start with 2 shims on each side and then after a gallon or so shim it closer with 3 on the left and 1 on the right. Use the 2.0 alum inserts and then when you do replace the ring and pinion also always replace the gear case. Usually the gear case is the issue as it develops too much flex. I have blown a front r/p but so far thats it.

hambone

iTrader: (1)

One problem the truggy encounters is the gearbox cover getting flexing when you are running a big horse engine. So just like John said, the r&p mesh must be a little snug in spots at 1st when new. Then keep an eye on it and keep it greased. I have had good luck with mobil 1 synthetic grease. Use the aluminum bearing inserts and don't ever allow the 8x14 flanged bearings to fail. Keep them like new and you won't have a problem. I go thru 2 pinions for every ring gear. The pinions get worn down to a much smaller diameter with time. One of the most important things to to is to make sure the pinion is pushed against its bearings and install the driveshaft and tighten the set screw so the pinion can't move in and out. Allowing the pinion to move in towards the ring gear while running is the kiss of death for both gears. Enjoy the truck, they rock. Keep the ride height and camber set by the book with ample front toe out and it's a joy to drive. I dropped down to 7000 in center diff and that's been working well at the tracks i run.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

+1 absolutely ZERO backlash and you will be fine. Shim it tight, and keep it tight.

John Schafer

iTrader: (2)

I thought for sure someone was going to shoot me down on that "No Backlash" gear setting. Truth is I always set-up a little backlash in gears, EXCEPT on the Losi 1/8 scales. Ran a tick of backlash in Mugen's Hot Bodies, and OFNA's always with good results but I was warned when the 8ight first came out to run the mesh tight to avoid problems. It works and works well.....

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

i have also blown front r&p. i now shim them just like the front. since i have been doing that no prob.

tc5 man

whats the deal with the 2.0 blowing r&p,, i have the eight -t 1.0 and the 1.0 buggy and never had a problem. i just did what the manuel said to do.

dnebout

iTrader: (32)

Alright I'll try it. I've tried everything else except no lash. In full size 4WD and cars for that matter, you always set some backlash for the coast side of the ring gear. I carried my experience with that in mind with no luck so far. I'll do it even though everything tells me not to, but I can't argue with RC tech experience. That's why I read this forum!!!

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

OK, thanks for all the input. It sounds like a lot of it is just preparation and maintenance. I am considering maybe changing rides and I am leaning towards Losi at the moment. I just want "reliable" vehicles. I race against a bunch of Losi's in my region and a lot of the truckers are very frustrated due to some blown ring and pinion gears. I will keep reading this thread.

tc5 man

thats why im sticking with my, eight-t 1.0 for now at least. ive had zero problems with the gears on the 1.0.

JAMMINKRAZY

iTrader: (17)

The gears of the 1.0 and 2.0 are the same. Some people believe the issue with the 2.0's resides in the gearbox. The new more flexible plastic formula developed to make the arms and other plastic items more durable, is also now used to make the gearboxes. The obvious problem with this new more flexible plastic, is exactly that. It flexes more than the old formula therefore the gearboxes flex more. Any flex what so ever in the gearbox can spell the end for the R&P. This is also why R&P blow outs are more common on hot summer race days. The heat only adds to the amount of flex happening in the gearboxes.

All of this withstanding, if you keep your diff shimmed tight and maintain it correctly you won't have issues. Use a good grease like Mobil 1 synthetic red bearing grease on the R&P and you will be good to go.

reggie l.

iTrader: (4)

+1

and they have stuff called monkey grease..or something on the lines of that, where as though you put the grease on the r/p and it will not sling off...

tc5 man

how often to you greese your r&p by the way ? i know what you mean about keeping the diff shimed, tight i just think if i got the 2.0 later on it whould get on my neves, checking it after a weekend of racing.


and also the short rack steering on the 1.0 t is sweet.

reggie l.

iTrader: (4)

well im anal about my shit...so i check the rear every few races..but my front has been good for a while...i say a half a gal or more...been kinda lazy with changing my fluids in there..i will do it mabe next week

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

Dave you want it tight but not notchy. If it's ntchy ten move 1 shim and make sure that the pinion is tight in the gear case no movement like jammin said above. That seems to work for me and I have had this truck since it came out.