I agree that 2.0 hinge pins are tough.. I went of a jump with my 8t 2.0 and landed on a pipe with a spike that was not hammered down all the way. My rear a-arm hit the spike, the hinge pin actually ripped through the hinge pin brace! hinge pin and a-arm are still good too :)

my truck wasnt turning right once and i changed the shock oil and it was a night and day difference lol...then changed the tires and it was even better...then tightend my servo saver and it was good to go...

i def agree with jammin on this

i put the lunsfords Ti's in both truggy and buggy and eventually bent one in each. I run only the Losi gold pins; they seem to take much more of a beating and stay straight.

you said the RC8's were turning under you; were you on power or off power when you noticed the lack of rear rotation?

I would check your suspension and ream the arms if you have too. Try reducing rear toe to 3 instead of the 3.5, it allows the rear end to rotate more and not push.

Did you replace the fluids from out the box?

what is the 2.0 set everyone is running including sway bars and springs thanks

black springs in the front...grey in the rear

2.3 sway bar in the front and rear

Im running 2 degree fron camber and 3 rear
32.5wt oil with black springs on the front
27.5wt oil with white or black springs on the rear
3K rear diff oil
7K front and 10K center or Smartdiffs on a loose track
BCE Chassis with 38mm front ride height and 43mm rear

Losi losi losi losi losi

i made my mark over there^:D

sweet

I like it

Most guys I know running the e-T 2.0 are running either no front sway bar or a thinner one and also lowering front ride height. Seems the weight of the batts aor something is messing with it. May try moving the batt around trying to get some more weight in the front. Also did you drive the truck before the conversion if so how much different does it handle. I will try and get intouch with Jose he's a local guy with an elec that has been working with his and has it fuguredout I believe. The first time he run his he also said his assoc would out turn his losi and I lsaid-that the first time I have ever heard a losi wouldn't turn

Yup at first the assoc. did out turn it. Now the Losi is doing good.....just ALOT has to be done to the electric conversions if you want them to handle like the nitro and still have a runtime that is worth a crap. These guys running the conversions at Pro races that are only 10 mins for E-classes, yeah its easy to get the weight down to the same as a nitro with small batteries or single batt setup. For guys like me that run with the nitro guys that want to run 20, 30 and more mins, I run stacked setups for long runtimes, but you pay a price for weight. Once you get it dialed, which mine still has some bugs but I am slowly figuring them out, they really will perform good. My truggy has been doing pretty good this year and only 2 DNF's with electrical problems. All the other races I have managed to finish I have done decent.

Just the man I was looking for-you must have known I was talking about you. How's it been going Jose. I haven't done much racing here lately with the new house and all, but I did manage a second overall in the rc pro midsouth open truggy class. Gonna try and make it to the snakepit sat looks like its gonna be a good crowd

Where do i find the 2.0mm swaybar for rear of the truggy? Do i need to buy a set for the buggy or are they sold separate and i'm just not seeing it?