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good idea Tix leave the rebuild for after the nats mate .....
as for the slop just check your bearings to sometimes depends how much you have the slop can be eliminated a small amount ... but the cars do work verry well with a small amount of slop all apart of the breaking in period :) |
Originally Posted by marccaracer
(Post 6039264)
Looking for shims to go between the rear axels and the hexes to take out a bit of slop. Anyone know where to find some?
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=1795 Are what I use. But like tix said, don't shim them too tight. I only use them when there is an overly excessive amount of play. Some movement is good.:nod: |
No shims here and the truck drives great. I do have a question about shims in the rear gearbox. I recently replaced the ring and pinion and pit the stock shims back in , 2 on each side. There seems to be a high spot where the mesh gets a little tighter. Do I shim to the highest spot or let it wear in? I have 1-5 min qual and a 20 min main on it and it still has a high spot. Reshim or leave it alone?
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I'm selling my 8T 2.0
I'm tired of playing bumper cars in the truggy class....going 100% buggy. If you are thinking about buying a new 2.0 hold a couple days and let me get the details of this fully loaded truck posted up and photographed. It has three races on it, it is dialed and all the minor issues are already addressed. If anyone is serious, PM me and I will fill you in. I have to find a casio usb cable for my camera, it seems to have walked away on me.
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Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 6039710)
No shims here and the truck drives great. I do have a question about shims in the rear gearbox. I recently replaced the ring and pinion and pit the stock shims back in , 2 on each side. There seems to be a high spot where the mesh gets a little tighter. Do I shim to the highest spot or let it wear in? I have 1-5 min qual and a 20 min main on it and it still has a high spot. Reshim or leave it alone?
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i just sgim my diffs so there are no high spots in it , hasnt given me any problem at all , i think by memory i have 2 one side and one on the other , that with the 2.0 alloy bearing housing too ...:)
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Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 6037175)
Yep thats it and the magic number is 23.3 mm as per Adam Drake
Also, after the race day on Sunday, there is spilt fuel covered in dust all over the inside of the car and the engine. I guess this is either my pit guy being too liberal with the refuelling or the tank opening when I bin it or both. What do you guys think? |
if its running fine them probley spilt if you have tuning problems then a leak somewhere
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Ive had the mysterious tank lid opening BS more then one time....granted its still a 1.0 tank...but i Do have more then a couple bands around the lid to keep it closed......i have a 2.0 tank ill be testing this weekend....but im not convinced its 100% the tank...it all started when i put the 2.0 body on....:weird:
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no problems with tanks leaks at all the only time i have had any issues was from the refuels at pit stops bit since using fuel guns im pretty happy alot let mess:nod:
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Originally Posted by Integra
(Post 6040355)
Ive had the mysterious tank lid opening BS more then one time....granted its still a 1.0 tank...but i Do have more then a couple bands around the lid to keep it closed......i have a 2.0 tank ill be testing this weekend....but im not convinced its 100% the tank...it all started when i put the 2.0 body on....:weird:
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Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 6040502)
The problem is defiantly with the 2.0 body. I had to just run just the flat part of the zip tie sticking out no fuel tubing and no end on the zip tie, and sometimes in a hard crash it still open the tank. It happens when the truck slides upside down it pulls the tank open. There is a fix to this problem where you add throttle linkage stops to the end of the springs on the tank lid. This helps but it can still open. It will make the lid close better as the springs are now stiffer with this mod. I hope that makes sense.
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Thanks guys, I have been having problems getting my V-spec to run right, even put a new carb on, but I am almost sure it is not leaking. I will get it sent off to my mate to check it over. I have an almost new crank case for it to, might get everything changed over to that. Then again, I might just bin it after 2 gallons and just run my new Siim 21 in.
Not been having much luck with engines lately, my GRP tuned was playing up with tune, going rich and lean and then rich again and so on. That's why I threw the V-spec in there. |
+1 on the rtr fuel tank lid puller , they look neater than cable ties to think
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
(Post 6040748)
i had the same problem with the zip ties. i got the rtr tank lid pulls and i no longer have an issue. $5 for 2 u can't go wrong.
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