hey guys i put the 1.0 spring on how many turns should it go??

and im going to order the camber and wing bolts but does anyone have a part number?

Does anyone know if DE make skids for the 8T 2.0 yet?

The regular DE 8ight skid plates fit.

Same as for the 1.0. I run them on mine front and rear.

There is no number of turns you need to set the saver. for the last and final time! it is a feel thing. It's already been said many times. you just have to set it where you feel it is doing it's job correctly!:nod:

I was told by Losi drivers to use the complete 1.0 servo saver assembly, not just the spring. It looks to me like the 2.0 are more angled and would be more difficult to engage.

With the 1.0 T, some people were complaining because it was "too soft".

I'm running 1.0 assembly with the 1.0 Fioroni spring and no issues at all.

I run the 2.0 with the screw part almost all the way down with a hitec 7955tg and have had not 1 problem or issue..

the Original 1.0 saver setup was Rock Hard it would barely engage due to the Flat edges the saver plastics had....Now that they are curved the right way it works like it should....the spring is all that's needed.

The only problem I've had with the servo saver is I stripped the plastic servo horn. I was rushed, got truck on thursday night, raced it saturday, didn't get around to adjusting the saver. I put a hitec aluminun horn on it, loosened the saver til I could get it actuated by hand, hasn't given me a problem since. Rear outer wheel bearing do seem to go after every race day,2 bucks to put in avids, not bad. Will be hitting up jdub for modded hubs soon. As for the short screws, I swapped the lower shock mount screws with the camber link screws, perfect. Haven't had a wing mount screw lossen yet, so all is well. I love this truck.

this might be a dumb question, how do you know the feel of a workin saver? whats it supposed to feel like

With the saver out of the car, you should be able to actuate it by hand. You want it to be pretty hard to get it to actuate, but it should actuate by hand. If you set it too loose the wheels will walk/wobble down the straights. :nod:

Has anybody replaced the standard steering rod ends with hockey stick style ones?

I noticed that at lock the rims were rubbing on them. I have now changed them to Kyosho hocky stick ends and have so much clearance now.

Also,I have changed back from the +2 hexes to the standard hexes. I put my GRP wheels back on and now they are really stiff to turn, its seems that the inside of hexes is rubbing on the rear hub plastic and the front spindle, causing loads of drag. With the wheels off, the drivetrain spins so freely. Thing is, it only seems to be on 2 of the wheels, while the others are a lot freer. Any ideas on how to sort this out? The standard Losi wheels seem to have a slighly shallower hex than the GRP wheels.

I adjust the hard way. With the car put together and the servo on I try to turn the wheels if I can turn them easily then its too loose, if I cant turn them then its too tight. I like it to where they are difficult to turn bur so the saver still works. Also you can watch the saver work using this method. The last test is on the track - If the steering feels loose then I need to tighten up the saver. It is a feel thing some drivers like more servo saver action than others. The worst thing I have had happen with the saver too tight is break the plastic saver or blow a top bearing in a JR9100T. The servo still worked it just had a lot of slop.

With the car on, grab the weels and turn them back and forth. Watch the servo saver work. It should be clean and spray some silicone on it once and a while. Also, you can watch how far the spring crushes in unison with how far the wheels turn. If the wheels still have a ways to go and spring has crushed, you need to loosen it until they match. I'm running all stock 2.0 with no issues.

Sorry Frank-I think were saying the same thing. Saw your post after I did mine. My bad!

Solution would be to put the 2mm hexes back on:lol: I found that on all but the AKA wheels, the webbing rubs the very back tip of the front arm where the hinge pin/screw is. I run the 2mm hubs and no rubbing for me! I also noticed a tick more steering with the 2mm hubs also.:nod: