Awsome !

Thanks guys :D

Alot of 8ight BUGGY parts also fit the 8T.
I just installed EU adjustable hinge pin brackets on my 8T..... cuz I like that blacked out look. ;)

Hey guys, i have a couple questions since I'll be expecting an 8T soon.

1. Receiver Battery - Wanting to go lipo on this one, what lipo do you guys recommend? Would i need some kind of voltage cutoff/regulator so it doesn't empty out? Also, what are those things called that connect the two servos together to fit into one plug?

2. Tool sets - Can anyone recommend a cheap decent/good quality tool set out there? I've seen the losi ones and i'm trying to stay away from those because of the price. If all else fails, i'll get em.

3. Starter Box batteries - I'll be going lipos on these ones too, i've been looking at the Ecopower 4s. Would i need some kind of LVC on here too? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ah-Starter-Box

4. Basically Anything that i would need to keep it going. I'm already thinking of getting a screw kit from Tony's Screws and a bearing kit from AVID.

Thanks guys. Any other tips will be appreciated as well, my first experience with nitro didn't go so well, and now i'm giving it a second try.

Guys, I have an urgent question hopefully you can help me. Tomorrow will be the first time I will have ran my truck in about a year. I started it up today to make sure everything was all good, and my brakes make this weird clicking, grinding noise. If I had to describe it I would say like the pad is gripping the rotor so hard that it finally gains enough power to turn a little bit, and then it gets stuck, and keeps going so it makes a ccckkk cccckkk ccccckkkk ccccckkkk noise. Can anybody help me out?

Check the rear diff.

Will do, thanks man!

Just rebuilt all three diffs and the problem is still happening. Could it be the brake rotors?

First off, does the car roll freely with the RX and controller on?

If yes, its not your brakes.
If no, leave the controller on and get the wheels off the ground. Spin the front and rear tires to see which side is the problem.

Then remove the brake linkages from the servo and make sure the move easily. Check one at a time. When you do it slow, you should see the brake cam move the inner pad. If the cam isn't moving, there is your problem. If the cam moves and not the pad, well, then there's your problem.

If everything is moving freely, you have your radio set up wrong, your clutch bearings are bad or another bearing is locked up, possibly a worn out outdrive or pin. Check the set screws on the input to the pinions for the diffs if they are loose and spinning. They should be tight on the flat spot.

8T 2.0, os .28xz, 086 pipe, losi clutch, 4 aluminum shoes, what springs?? Track is a 1/5 scale blownout out rough dusty track with a couple decent jumps. I'm currently running 4 aluminum 2 silver 2 gold and its seems like it engages to high of an rpm. The motors always running in high rpms. How do I take advantage of this motors low end as well as high end? What clutch springs?
When you remove the motor are you guys taking the 4 screws on the bottom of the chassis out or the 4 screws holding the motor to the mounts?

I found that my diff was incorrectly shimmed, and the grinding was the diff and pinion skipping teeth. Thank you

If I recall I had the same issue and I solved it with 4 silvers. However I now run two green and two gold I believe. And always remove it from the motor mount. If you remove the mounts you need to adjust your clutch mesh with the center diff every time

1. If you go to all silver springs, it will engage at a higher RPM. Go to a 2 green 2 gold and see if you like that. I will help on the dusty track. That OS .28 is a power house down low so use it.

Yes, take the screws out of the top side where the motor sits on the mount.

Has anyone had the issue where the front tires are rubbing off the A-arms every time you steer? My 8ight seems to be doing that. Also, to add on to that my steering linkage seems to wiggle a lot. Is that normal?

Yes and Yes.

The wheels do rub quite a bit. Dont worry about it. Unless you want less steering, that is the only way to really fix that issue. It just scuffs the arms and leaves a neat black ring on the inside of the wheels.

The play in the linkages is also normal from wear. you can replace everything to get the "Losi Slop" out but I would be worried untill it wont track straight.

OK so here's what I did. I took a mic and measured the clutch springs I took out. 2 were .040 and 2 were .036. I had a few springs laying around, looked olive color. They measured .036. Put 4 of the .036 guage springs and went to the track. Overall better performance but still not what I think it should be. Ended up ording an M2C 4 shoe clutch today instead of dumping more money into stock clutch.
Also I think I need a dif. pipe for my .28. I have a top end pipe and I think a low end pipe along with softer clutch springs will really make the combo work well.

Alright thanks, glad to see i wasn't the only one with that problem.