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Old 08-23-2011, 07:18 PM
  #13261  
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Originally Posted by outtafocus
Im picking up a used Mbx6 shortly and I dont believe it includes the manual.
Does any one know where I might be able to find one online?

I just did a search of the Mugen site and the only "manual" i was able to find was just a parts list.
all manuals are posted on racemugen.com, same with some setup: http://www.racemugen.com/downloads.html
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:28 PM
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Thanks, that was quick!
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:47 PM
  #13263  
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Originally Posted by John.
It's not the cause of your problem in this case, but it never hurts to heat proof anything especially radio boxes so close to the engine. Make sure the reflective part of the tape is facing the heat source. Reflective tape should not attract heat, it reflects it away.



Battery in the front should give you a little bit more weight transfer to the front helping with forward bite. It should also help keep the nose down if you're finding it's lifting in jumps. But this can also be controlled via brake modulations mid air.

Battle just drills 6 holes into his side guards and with 3 zip ties holds the battery down. See pics of his car from the recent Euros.




Hope this helps.
Wow, just curious, what is the flywheel that he used?
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:12 PM
  #13264  
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Wow, just curious, what is the flywheel that he used?
Is the Ultimate Racing, COMPAK CLUTCH SYSTEM V2 9.5mm

www.ultimateracing.es
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:36 PM
  #13265  
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Default MBX6 F/S

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ce-roller.html
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:57 AM
  #13266  
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I use the stock clutch with .9 springs and some times 1.0 spring. I race at over 5000 ft., works fine. There is alot of things that could make your bell blue.

Work with the stock stuff and you will get what your looking for
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:45 PM
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Default Chassis Braces

What chassis brace are people typically running on the front of the mugen when your running a +5mm chassis, the standard long or the short option one?
By my thinking the longer would stiffen the chassis more and move the chassis flew point further rear, the short would move flex forward and provide less overall stiffness improving front bite and traction? Would the longer brace move more of the work to the suspension as apposed to allowing to help, the longer front needing the suspension setup to be more critical and relevant?

Thoughts or opinions?

Last edited by Mauve; 08-24-2011 at 10:47 PM. Reason: Another thought...
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:15 AM
  #13268  
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Originally Posted by Mauve
What chassis brace are people typically running on the front of the mugen when your running a +5mm chassis, the standard long or the short option one?
By my thinking the longer would stiffen the chassis more and move the chassis flew point further rear, the short would move flex forward and provide less overall stiffness improving front bite and traction? Would the longer brace move more of the work to the suspension as apposed to allowing to help, the longer front needing the suspension setup to be more critical and relevant?

Thoughts or opinions?
I run the standard long one. I couldn't feel to much of a difference between the two. So I just went with the long one to reduce flex on the servo tray.
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:45 AM
  #13269  
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I run the short option one.
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Old 08-25-2011, 04:39 AM
  #13270  
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51
if you are trying to get -3 degrees, run all the way out, i run mine at -3 to -3.5
Thanks jmaxey, I was going to try a shorter camber link to counter on power oversteer. I think a longer link will make it worse?

I ended up softening the rear end (which fixed it) but i think the shorter links will be a better solution?
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:00 AM
  #13271  
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Originally Posted by Nogas
Thanks jmaxey, I was going to try a shorter camber link to counter on power oversteer. I think a longer link will make it worse?

I ended up softening the rear end (which fixed it) but i think the shorter links will be a better solution?
i always run my longer. ran mine about as long as you can on other brands too, works well IMO.

this may help:

REAR UPPER CAMBER LINK - LENGTH
CHARACTERISTICS

Shorter link (outer hole on tower and/ or inner hole on hub)
• Increases steering and decreases stability into corner
• Increases on-power traction slightly

Longer link (inner hole on tower and/or outer hole on hub)
• Decreases rear camber gain
• Increases stability
• Slows down the car‘s responsiveness

Last edited by jmaxey51; 08-25-2011 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:27 AM
  #13272  
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Long brace.

Short camber link will push it more on exit. I like your rear softening that worked well for me for this issue. Just laying the rear shocks down is a big help.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:00 AM
  #13273  
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Guys, what has been your experience with Mugen customer support. I have send many emails to them including the shock leaking out of the box issue. I havent received one reponse.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:04 AM
  #13274  
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Originally Posted by rcindia
Guys, what has been your experience with Mugen customer support. I have send many emails to them including the shock leaking out of the box issue. I havent received one reponse.
Did you try calling? I'm sure there EM bin gets overloaded.

Whats your shock issue?
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:50 PM
  #13275  
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Guys, I'm thinking of starting a blog about rc racing. I'll write about tips and tricks, race reports and interesting news that has to with racing. Mainly about 1/8th offroad and once in a while about 1/10 offroad.

I'm still thinking about a good URL/title that makes sense to anyone. All tips are welcome!
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