adrictan

iTrader: (10)

Where can we get one?

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Anyone have a copy of the M2C front and rear hinge pin arm mounts? I got a set used but no instructions and I can't seem to be able to find them on line anywhere. I thought I remembered someone postin them on here at some point but I can't seem to find that either.

I just want to be able to set it it so it's he same as what I have been running.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

This is all I have now - hope this helps. M2C setup is fantastic!

M2C:

Lonestar, correct vertically for the front rear block and horizontally for the rear block. But per the instructions and the stamped rear block, if you use the (1 dot pill) as they refer to, on the front rear block, it will give you 3 degrees of antisquat automatically. The rear block does not change antisquat, only toe (horizontal).

Now if you changed to the 2 dot pill it will give you 4 degrees of antisquat but if you flip it upside down, it will give you 1 degree of antisquat while the 3 dot pill gives you 5 degrees and upside down it gives you 0 degrees of antisquat.

First try the 1 dot pill on both ends and you'll see the 3 degrees I'm referring to by compessing the rear shock and checking under the rear arm.


Stock system:

when you have a 0 block in the back:

bushing down = 0 deg as
bushing center = 1 deg as
bushing up = 2 deg as

when you have a 1 block in the back:

bushing down = 1 deg as
bushing center = 2 deg as
bushing up = 3 deg as

Maximo

iTrader: (11)

wish we had more durable control arms ! that would be an option I would love to see..... Mugen is not liking our new track layout...front ends blowing apart like crazy .....

Z-Man.

iTrader: (4)

Boil the a arms for 10 minutes, It helps with my buggy and truggy

jmaxey51

iTrader: (7)

have you tried boiling them for 15-20 min? ... we did this on truggy (havent had a need to for buggy) and havent broken any (knock on wood lol). however, they start to "bow" after 4-5 gallons but atleast they havent broke.

morgoth

I do it in the rear. It's pretty easy to get the rear diff out of the car. But it's very fast to change toe/antisquate.

Z-Man.

iTrader: (4)

On my Truggy, they start to "bow" after about 3 or 4 races.

dakilo

iTrader: (53)

FRONT TOE BLOCK SYSTEM
MBX6
This system is made from 7075 aircraft aluminum for maximum strength for long life,
But it gives you the resilience of plastic to absorb the shock of RC car racing.
This system will allow you to fine-tune the rear suspension for you exact need.
The hinge pins PART NO.5701 have been redesigned with a ball end and tapered 4 degrees
In the area that comes in contact with the bushing.
This design allows the hinge pins and arms to float freely in the bushings and offers a duel system of the arms rotating around the hinge pin or the hinge pin rotating
In the bushing.
This system will allow the path of least resistance to the suspension system and
Allow it to react faster to the movement of the arm.
The hinge pins are captured to help with ease of maintenance and hardened o1 tool steel for long life.
This system now uses the m2c white delrin bushings, These bushing have a very long life and are very resistant to wear.
1 Dot Part no. 3910
2 Dot part n0. 3920
3 Dot part no. 3930
You can also use the Associated black bushings that can be purchased from most hobby shops Associated part no. 89039
This system consist of 3 blocks , the(2) FRONT antidive blocks and (1) rear block(set with mugen “(0) degree block) and a series of hinge pins bushings.
The “- 1/2”block (2 ) dot down corresponds to the mugen pill rotated down.
The “0” block is ½ degree higher than the Mugen block ½ degree down.
With the use black bushing it will give you a very wide range of selections.
The black hinge pin bushings have dots on the back side.
1 dot is hole is centered in the bushing
2 dots the hole is 1 degree off center
3 dots the hole is 2 degrees off center.

.example:
if you use the –1/2 block with the2 dot pill down you will have -1 degree antidive.
If you use the-1/2 degree block with 3 dot bushing down you will have –2 degree antidive.

If you use the “0” block with 2 dot down you will have-1/2 degree antidive.
If you use the “0” block with 3 dot down you will have –1.5 antidive.

Remember that this system will react quicker than the current system , so you may have to adjust the inserts to attain the best feeling system to you.
This system will also make it much easier to service the front diff. A definite Plus.

It will be necessary to modify front bumper slightly to attain proper fit.
Dremmel the front outside of the front about 2.5 mm back and it is best to completely remove the small braces in the middle . When we lawn dart the front , all the energy from the impact is transmitted through the chassis.
This is not good . removing the small inner tabs will allow the bumper to bend and absorb the shock.
So far removing these tabs has not resulted in any broken bumpers.


REAR TOE BLOCK SYSTEM

This system is made from 7075 aircraft aluminum for maximum strength for long life,
But it gives you the resilience of plastic to absorb the shock of RC car racing.
This system will allow you to fine-tune the rear suspension for you exact need.

The hinge pins have been redesigned with a ball end and tapered 4 degrees
In the area that comes in contact with the bushing.
This design allows the hinge pins and arms to float freely in the bushings and offers a duel system of the arms rotating around the hinge pin or the hinge pin rotating
In the bushing.
This system will allow the path of least resistance to the suspension system and
Allow it to react faster to the movement of the arm.
The hinge pins are captured to help with ease of maintenance and hardened o1 tool steel for long life.
.

This system consist of 2 blocks , the antisquat block and (1) toe block and a series of hinge pins bushings.

1 dot is hole is centered in the bushing
2 dots the hole is 1 degree off center
3 dots the hole is 2 degrees off center
½ degree blocks for ½ half degree offset. Example ½ degree rotated in will give you 2.5 degrees toe.
The white hinge pin bushings are :
The ¼ to the outside using the 3 degree toe block will give you 3 and ¼ to out
The ¼ rotated to to inside will give you 2.75 degree toe using the three degree block.
The use of this system will allow you to go from 2 degrees to 4.0 degrees in ½ degree increments using the hinge pin bushing.
Example:
1 dot using the 3degree block will give you 3 degree toe
2 dot using the 3 degree block will give you 4 degree if bushing is rotated to the outside
If rotated to the inside it will give you 2 degrees toe.

1 dot using the 3.0 will give you 3 degrees toe.
2 dot using the 3.0 block will give you 4.0 degree with bushing out, If bushing is rotated
in you will have 2.0 toe
The white bushings will allow you to adjust in ¼ degrees on the 2 toe blocks from 2.0 degrees to 3.5 in ¼ degree increments
Example 3.0 block with 1/4 to the outside of the bushing is 3.25 degree toe

The front rear or C block is the antisquat block.
The stock setup is black 1 dot .
This will give you the stock 1.5 degree antisquat . 2 dot down is .5 degree antisquat, 1 dot UP will give you 2.5 degree antisquat
You May also use the white bushing for fine adjustment of ¼ degree up or down.

NitroXray80809

iTrader: (24)

Knock on wood but my arms have been real strong. I have 3 diffrent kinds though. I have one syle thats all flat, then the style witth the notch by the sway bar ling and the style with the taller droop screw holder. IDK if theres a real diffrence or strength change. I have a feeling the flat arms are old lol.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Mine are done like this, I put a small flat spot on each side of the head so that I can use a wrench on the flat spots on the inside, then the nut is on the outside. Maintenance is much easier.

Nogas

iTrader: (7)

Good work! I have been doing it with a cut down allen key but thats a heaps better idea

goodlunds

iTrader: (8)

could someone post the latest spring chart with the new springs!

thanks

gdux

Here is a spring chart with the black(old) and Silver(new) springs, copied from earlier in the thread. Not sure exactly where the fancier one is.

Front Mugen Spring Chart, MBX6/MBX6T:
• MUGE0558 - Front Spring (763 N/m) Super Soft 75mm, 1.6/10.25T
• MUGE0559 - Front Spring (787 N/m) Soft 75mm, 1.6/10.00T
• MUGE0571 - Front Spring (788 N/m) Soft 1.5/8.25T
• MUGE0560 - Front Spring (812 N/m) Medium 75mm, 1.6/9.75T
• MUGE0572 - Front Spring (821 N/m) Medium 1.5/8.0T
• MUGE0551 - Front Spring (840 N/m) Medium Hard 75mm, 1.6/9.5T
• MUGE0573 - Front Spring (857 N/m) Hard 1.5/7.75T
• MUGE0552 - Front Spring (868 N/m) Hard 75mm, 1.6/9.25T
• MUGE0574 - Front Spring (896 N/m) Very Hard 1.5/7.50T
• MUGE0553 - Front Spring (900 N/m) Very Hard 75mm, 1.6/9.0T

1.5 Silver – 1.6 Black


Rear Mugen Spring Chart, MBX6/MBX6T:
• MUGE0561 - Rear Spring (680 N/m) Super Soft 86mm, 1.6/11.25T
• MUGE0562 - Rear Spring (699 N/m) Soft 86mm, 1.6/11.0T
• MUGE0563 - Rear Spring (719 N/m) Medium 86mm, 1.6/10.75T
• MUGE0554 - Rear Spring (740 N/m) Medium Hard 86mm, 1.6/10.5T
• MUGE0575 - Rear Spring (758 N/m) Medium 1.5/8.50T
• MUGE0555 - Rear Spring (763 N/m) Hard 86mm 1.6/10.25T
• MUGE0576 - Rear Spring (788 N/m) Hard 1.5/8.25T
• MUGE0556 - Rear Spring (812 N/m) Very Hard 86mm, 1.6/10.0T
• MUGE0577 - Rear Spring (821 N/m) Very Hard 1.5/8.0T
• MUGE0568 - Rear Spring (850 N/m) Mega Hard 86mm 1.6/9.75T
• MUGE0578 - Rear Spring (857 N/m) Mega Hard 1.5/7.75
• MUGE0569 - Rear Spring (885 N/m) Ultra Hard 86mm, 1.6/9.5T

1.5 Silver – 1.6 Black

morgoth

Hmmm, that a lot easier indeed! I used some pliers but you get scratches on them quickly.
Do you also flip them in the front? I found that if I flip them in the front, it's more work to replace an A arm if you break one. Although I haven't been breaking A arms for a while