3LikesMugen MBX6
12-03-2009, 01:42 PM
#5836
I am also on my 3rd tank. It appears to be the oring seal around the lid. After awhile the seal becomes loose and thats where it starts leaking. The Losi lid seals around the top for a better fit. All you have to do is order the Losi Tank lid and dremel the lip out of the inside of the Mugen lid. then insert with the Losi seal and it should seal up and keep the half tank lean symptom.
12-03-2009, 04:33 PM
#5838
Where can I go to get a blank setup sheet?
12-03-2009, 04:58 PM
#5840
tony had lids which come with a new oring
12-03-2009, 08:28 PM
#5841
Tech Fanatic
fuel tank
I got the same problem with my fuel tank.It is not the tank but the oring that doesn t seal.I think Mugen knows the problem but instead to sell just the oring for $1 they want us to buy $27 new tank.
Could you please give me Tony web? So i see if i can fix the problem without buy a new tank all the time.
Thank you.
Could you please give me Tony web? So i see if i can fix the problem without buy a new tank all the time.
Thank you.
12-03-2009, 11:16 PM
#5842
new oring
is it only in the newer mbx6 with the new oring?
as in the updated kit
damn, not another item i have to buy.
the item on tony screw is H068 i think. on ebay , they seems to be the same one on mbx5, 6, 4 i think they all the same, not an up graded option
just ran my engine yesterday with my 1st generation kit. its now about 1 gallon. the engine seems ok.
as in the updated kit
damn, not another item i have to buy.
the item on tony screw is H068 i think. on ebay , they seems to be the same one on mbx5, 6, 4 i think they all the same, not an up graded option
just ran my engine yesterday with my 1st generation kit. its now about 1 gallon. the engine seems ok.
12-04-2009, 09:50 AM
#5843
tank
well , finally took the plunge and the the under water seal test on both my buggy and truggy (nearly friggin poisoned my self with fuel). and the verdict- no leakage. i suppose after 2 gallons and hard crushes there will be some leakage due to normal wear and tear
12-05-2009, 09:50 AM
#5844
anyone experience issues with the ofna truggy starter box wheel having a hard time making contact with the flywheel? mine barely reaches and i have a hard time starting it sometimes. the starter wheel seems to be catching the sides of the flywheel opening before it hits the flywheel.
12-05-2009, 01:51 PM
#5845
anyone experience issues with the ofna truggy starter box wheel having a hard time making contact with the flywheel? mine barely reaches and i have a hard time starting it sometimes. the starter wheel seems to be catching the sides of the flywheel opening before it hits the flywheel.
Seems like the Mugen engine mount may be too high or the flywheel is a smaller flywheel.
12-05-2009, 08:29 PM
#5846
i wish i could post a setup sheet for you but i really dont know how?
555
10/11 springs, 450/400, 6 hole pistons
#1 kickup block
0 2.75 toe block
3 deg of antisquat(use the upper pos.)
rear a arm forward
hubs in lower hole and middle on a arm
rear camber link middle on tower and outer on hub
front upper/lower arms middle
front upper pin pos high
2.3/2.7 bar
106/126 droop,measured from center of shock bolts
lower shock outer hole/upper middle(on tight low speed tracks i move the front shocks out one hole on the tower for more steering)
do not use s3 orings in diff
14 tcb,.9 springs,stock alum shoes
mount wing with upper holes to lower wing and forward
standard wing-no high downforce
avid disk brake rotors/xray laser cut shoes
keep all hinge pins free with play, most overtighten and bind their susp.
with full tank of fuel,car ready to run, drop on bench and set front arms level and the rear just above level. the rear ride hight is VERY important to the steering of this lighter car. just a 1/2 turn on the rear collar's will make a BIG change!
set swaybar preload at, front 1/8" and rear at 1/4"
2-3 deg of camber
555
10/11 springs, 450/400, 6 hole pistons
#1 kickup block
0 2.75 toe block
3 deg of antisquat(use the upper pos.)
rear a arm forward
hubs in lower hole and middle on a arm
rear camber link middle on tower and outer on hub
front upper/lower arms middle
front upper pin pos high
2.3/2.7 bar
106/126 droop,measured from center of shock bolts
lower shock outer hole/upper middle(on tight low speed tracks i move the front shocks out one hole on the tower for more steering)
do not use s3 orings in diff
14 tcb,.9 springs,stock alum shoes
mount wing with upper holes to lower wing and forward
standard wing-no high downforce
avid disk brake rotors/xray laser cut shoes
keep all hinge pins free with play, most overtighten and bind their susp.
with full tank of fuel,car ready to run, drop on bench and set front arms level and the rear just above level. the rear ride hight is VERY important to the steering of this lighter car. just a 1/2 turn on the rear collar's will make a BIG change!
set swaybar preload at, front 1/8" and rear at 1/4"
2-3 deg of camber
Go for it!!!
12-06-2009, 10:37 AM
#5849
I got a couple of general set up questions for you guys just so I am clear on some things. On the rear end toe block I am running 3 toe and 1 anti squat. How does the rear lower bushings change the anti squat? I am guessing that by running the upper hole I am creating more anti squat. What does changing the positioning of the bushing change the overall setting (1* between top/middle/lower?)?
On the front upper bushing is this changing the caster, and the upper arm spacers are changing the active caster? And one more question, the front lower bushing I am assuming is working together with the front lower arm mount (kick up). So by using the lower arm bushing in the upper position and then using a 0 kick up lower arm mount, is this actually creating front kick up? And please don't post a link to the Hudy set up guide, I have it and read it often, but these things I am not to clear on. Thanks
On the front upper bushing is this changing the caster, and the upper arm spacers are changing the active caster? And one more question, the front lower bushing I am assuming is working together with the front lower arm mount (kick up). So by using the lower arm bushing in the upper position and then using a 0 kick up lower arm mount, is this actually creating front kick up? And please don't post a link to the Hudy set up guide, I have it and read it often, but these things I am not to clear on. Thanks
