3LikesMugen MBX6
11-03-2009, 03:00 AM
#5642
Tech Apprentice
I slightly bent some chassis, but never cracked one even with lots of abuse.
One issue is that the fix of the rear brace to the chassis gets a little bit sloppy. Therefore i use a longer screw and fix the brace with 2 nuts instead of one. Problem solved.
One issue is that the fix of the rear brace to the chassis gets a little bit sloppy. Therefore i use a longer screw and fix the brace with 2 nuts instead of one. Problem solved.
11-03-2009, 06:47 AM
#5643
i wish i could post a setup sheet for you but i really dont know how?
555
10/11 springs, 450/400, 6 hole pistons
#1 kickup block
0 2.75 toe block
3 deg of antisquat(use the upper pos.)
rear a arm forward
hubs in lower hole and middle on a arm
rear camber link middle on tower and outer on hub
front upper/lower arms middle
front upper pin pos high
2.3/2.7 bar
106/126 droop,measured from center of shock bolts
lower shock outer hole/upper middle(on tight low speed tracks i move the front shocks out one hole on the tower for more steering)
do not use s3 orings in diff
14 tcb,.9 springs,stock alum shoes
mount wing with upper holes to lower wing and forward
standard wing-no high downforce
avid disk brake rotors/xray laser cut shoes
keep all hinge pins free with play, most overtighten and bind their susp.
with full tank of fuel,car ready to run, drop on bench and set front arms level and the rear just above level. the rear ride hight is VERY important to the steering of this lighter car. just a 1/2 turn on the rear collar's will make a BIG change!
set swaybar preload at, front 1/8" and rear at 1/4"
2-3 deg of camber
555
10/11 springs, 450/400, 6 hole pistons
#1 kickup block
0 2.75 toe block
3 deg of antisquat(use the upper pos.)
rear a arm forward
hubs in lower hole and middle on a arm
rear camber link middle on tower and outer on hub
front upper/lower arms middle
front upper pin pos high
2.3/2.7 bar
106/126 droop,measured from center of shock bolts
lower shock outer hole/upper middle(on tight low speed tracks i move the front shocks out one hole on the tower for more steering)
do not use s3 orings in diff
14 tcb,.9 springs,stock alum shoes
mount wing with upper holes to lower wing and forward
standard wing-no high downforce
avid disk brake rotors/xray laser cut shoes
keep all hinge pins free with play, most overtighten and bind their susp.
with full tank of fuel,car ready to run, drop on bench and set front arms level and the rear just above level. the rear ride hight is VERY important to the steering of this lighter car. just a 1/2 turn on the rear collar's will make a BIG change!
set swaybar preload at, front 1/8" and rear at 1/4"
2-3 deg of camber
11-03-2009, 06:48 AM
#5644
for the lower speeds of indoor we used jammin springs
white fronts and rears, when its really slick yellow rears
375/300, 6 hole pistons
last winter 7 4 2 was really good but im going to start with 5 5 5 for this winter.
the shock oils were for some pretty cold temps, for 40 and up i would raise the oil.
white fronts and rears, when its really slick yellow rears
375/300, 6 hole pistons
last winter 7 4 2 was really good but im going to start with 5 5 5 for this winter.
the shock oils were for some pretty cold temps, for 40 and up i would raise the oil.
11-03-2009, 06:52 AM
#5645
with the king headz extended motor mount your chassy will not have these problems
11-03-2009, 08:29 AM
#5646
OfnaJoe or anybody else with a Bce chassis on there buggy. Can you go into any further details on the chassis effects on the car? Also did you have to modify your body or body mounts any? I am just about ready to pull trigger on one. I would like to try one out but I have some new bodies that I am waiting to cut out and just want to make sure that I dont need to relocate any of the holes.
11-03-2009, 03:08 PM
#5647
No body changes, no setup changes, the only change you will have is you will turn faster laps but I stated that before and started a firestorm.
11-03-2009, 04:01 PM
#5648
11-03-2009, 04:20 PM
#5649
OfnaJoe or anybody else with a Bce chassis on there buggy. Can you go into any further details on the chassis effects on the car? Also did you have to modify your body or body mounts any? I am just about ready to pull trigger on one. I would like to try one out but I have some new bodies that I am waiting to cut out and just want to make sure that I dont need to relocate any of the holes.
11-03-2009, 09:19 PM
#5651
Ofnajoe, yes sir, custom mixed grey, white and a little black in front.
The colors are rear: True Blue pearl, fl blue. center: fl orange, fl yellow. front: white, grey, silver and black. W/Black, silver and white checkers.
Thanks for the interest so far guys, getting lots of PM's and emails!
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
The colors are rear: True Blue pearl, fl blue. center: fl orange, fl yellow. front: white, grey, silver and black. W/Black, silver and white checkers.
Thanks for the interest so far guys, getting lots of PM's and emails!
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
11-03-2009, 09:30 PM
#5652
Ofnajoe, yes sir, custom mixed grey, white and a little black in front.
The colors are rear: True Blue pearl, fl blue. center: fl orange, fl yellow. front: white, grey, silver and black. W/Black, silver and white checkers.
Thanks for the interest so far guys, getting lots of PM's and emails!
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
The colors are rear: True Blue pearl, fl blue. center: fl orange, fl yellow. front: white, grey, silver and black. W/Black, silver and white checkers.
Thanks for the interest so far guys, getting lots of PM's and emails!
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
11-04-2009, 07:35 PM
#5653
There are quite a few levels of paint, as well as different body choices, etc. So if you would like, send me an email and I can get you a quote.
You can also check out the website and galleries there. It's listed in my signature.
Thanks
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
You can also check out the website and galleries there. It's listed in my signature.
Thanks
...Jim
W.E.D.
Get Faster Gear
11-05-2009, 09:02 PM
#5654
So who oils there pre filter? I have always oiled mine, but I keep hearing about how many don't oil the pre filter to avoid any unwanted build up during long mains. That make sense, and I would think as long as your air filter is oiled well this could be a decent way. I have always thought the more insurance that my mill is being protected the better. I can't remember a time in a main that my tune has really suffered for any other reason then something really drastic happening. Anyways, what are your guys thoughts?
11-05-2009, 09:14 PM
#5655
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
So who oils there pre filter? I have always oiled mine, but I keep hearing about how many don't oil the pre filter to avoid any unwanted build up during long mains. That make sense, and I would think as long as your air filter is oiled well this could be a decent way. I have always thought the more insurance that my mill is being protected the better. I can't remember a time in a main that my tune has really suffered for any other reason then something really drastic happening. Anyways, what are your guys thoughts?