keetonni

Thanks for all the help guys

gameholic2

A lot of people don't seem to use enough brakes and try to get the car around corners at impossible speeds then they complain that the car doesn't have enough steering...
when coming into a corner just tap the brakes in order to get some weight on the front unless your suspension set up is totaly messed up your car will have a nose down position and tons of steering.
I learned this when i started following the faster guys around the track and I realized they weren't trying to get around the corners at break neck speeds.

keit29

iTrader: (24)

I did a brief search in this thread and didn't find much direct info. How do you guys feel about the wider hubs? Do they help the car rotate better? Any ill affects? Are they even noticeable?

Merciless

Can anyone shed any light on this Over drive or under drive Diff gearing I'm hearing about ?

What parts are needed ?

Thanks

Rod

JHN1

can someone please help i am all over the place trying to find a good set up
i read couple of pages ago that allen42 has good set up but cant find it
if possible can someone post a set up sheet please.

thanks

j

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

very good post.

rocketman95h

iTrader: (4)

allen"s set up is under the mugen forum underreally getting fed up with it.

allan42r

i wish i could post a setup sheet for you but i really dont know how?
555
10/11 springs, 450/400, 6 hole pistons
#1 kickup block
0 2.75 toe block
3 deg of antisquat(use the upper pos.)
rear a arm forward
hubs in lower hole and middle on a arm
rear camber link middle on tower and outer on hub
front upper/lower arms middle
front upper pin pos high
2.3/2.7 bar
106/126 droop,measured from center of shock bolts
lower shock outer hole/upper middle(on tight low speed tracks i move the front shocks out one hole on the tower for more steering)
do not use s3 orings in diff
14 tcb,.9 springs,stock alum shoes
mount wing with upper holes to lower wing and forward
standard wing-no high downforce
avid disk brake rotors/xray laser cut shoes
keep all hinge pins free with play, most overtighten and bind their susp.
with full tank of fuel,car ready to run, drop on bench and set front arms level and the rear just above level. the rear ride hight is VERY important to the steering of this lighter car. just a 1/2 turn on the rear collar's will make a BIG change!
set swaybar preload at, front 1/8" and rear at 1/4"
2-3 deg of camber

allan42r

for the lower speeds of indoor we used jammin springs
white fronts and rears, when its really slick yellow rears
375/300, 6 hole pistons
last winter 7 4 2 was really good but im going to start with 5 5 5 for this winter.
the shock oils were for some pretty cold temps, for 40 and up i would raise the oil.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

hey allan, I would like to try your setup. But I dont have the shock springs, the 6 hole pistons or the rear 2.7 swar bar. I have the updated mbx6 shock springs and the 2.8mm rear bar. Should I try your setup since I dont have the same parts or would you change a few things since I dont have the parts

allan42r

well if your running on a high bite or high speed track you should be ok. do you have the 9.75/10.75 springs then? the car is pretty fast on high speed tracks with the stock springs but on bumpy/low bite tracks its a little hard to hold onto. if your ok with the springs look into the rear bar. we tested with the 5 hole's first and then the 6 holes and i like the feel of the 6 holes for the bumps. for most tracks the stock pistons are fine, sorry i dont remember what oil?
if the track is low speed and low bite your car just wont have the side bite or weight transfer of the softer springs/and rear bar. hope thats what your looking for?

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

yeah those are the springs Im using. I just rebuilt the car with 400 front and 350 rear. Honestly my track isnt very bumpy. In sections its a little rough but not to bad. It has a few slow sections

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys

I am drooling over the M2C rear toe system again as I broke another 2.75x1 block yesterday (was 6degC... plastics were suffering)... is this the one, and are hinge pin included as I can't see them on the pic?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Block-System

to those of you using it, how tough are the hinge pins? Can spares also be bought separately? And last but not least, I think I remember we talked about the RC8 inserts being 100% compatible, were we talking about these as they look eerily similar?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Bushings-RC8


thanks for the help,
Paul

Losi-Runner

Yes the rear M2C toe block system comes with their taper hinge pins. You can buy the hinge pins seperately on M2C website, but doubt you will need to as my M2C rear toe block system has seen over 5 gals and the hinge pins are still straight. The Team Associated hinge pin bushings are the same as those used on the M2C. The bushings tend to wear out faster than you would expect, but I just found out that KingHeadz has brass bushings that are more durable. I have to check into that to see if they will fit on the M2C system.

JHN1

Thanks allen42 allthe info i am going to try this set up and stick to it until i can drive better

thanks again
j