Timox

iTrader: (5)

Yes i have.

I have a set of the Hudy 30mm droop blocks and the Hudy droop gauge. Its all i use.

Using the Hudy blocks and gauge i have my front end set at about 26mm and the rear at about 24mm i think. Its been a while since i last looked so cant really remember now. The higher the number the less droop there is with the Hudy method.

Measurement is taken from the bottom of the threads on the wheel axles.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

Well, I finally made the decision to run the mbx-6. Got about half way through the build last night and have a question. On the front Steering rack, are there shims anywhere in the kit to put between the steering posts and the carbon top plate? When I put the top plate on and tightened it down, the steering rack is not as free. I think it needs a shim in there to keep the top plate off of it. Just not sure if there is one somewhere in the kit or if I should pick some up today before continuing tonight.

arm2storm

iTrader: (25)

I had the same problem, the kit doesn't come with anything. I used a clutch shim but make sure it's a very thin shim because if it's too thick you'll have some play on the post, it will move up and down causing some slop in the ackerman transfering it to the wheel.

Darin Z

Thats odd. Maybe your bearings arnt seated in the bell cranks all the way, mine has a hair of room between the top plate and bearing at the top. Moves free when completely screwed down.

jsmax

iTrader: (54)

On the Servo Saver side mine has a hair of room as well and is fine, on the other side the plastic is rubbing te top plate. I think I am just gonna take that side back off tonight and sand the top of the plastic a hair to give it some room.

fiveoboy01

iTrader: (30)

Mine has no binding either, and I have mine tightened down well.

hambydsgb

The new kit with red upgrade wrap and the new changes is on its way to my house from Nitro House. Is there any thing i will need to make this build short and sweet. I will start reading this form again from the top tonight when i get home from work. Any good pointers for setup or the build will be helpful. Iam moving up to the six from a 5Prospec so i hope there is a big difference.

rpm1968

iTrader: (18)

MBX-6 Building Tips from Team Mugen UK:

Note: Internal diff pin (2.2x9. is bigger in diameter than the old pin (2.0x 9. There for the large internal diff gear has a new part number (remember when re-building).

1. Step 1&2: Make sure the diff output shafts (E0228/E0229) are maintained with fresh Super Joint Grease after 3-4 meetings.

2. Step 4: Apply some silicone sealant to the outside of the diff output cup E0225, to hold the rubber boot E0236 more securely.

3. Step 6&7: Use chain lubricant on the crown wheel and pinion for lubrication.

4. Step 8: Make sure the balls in the roll bar link move freely, squeeze the plastic around the ball to free off.

5. Step 9,19&24: Make sure the pivot pin E0123 fits freely in the front and rear wishbones, E0162 through the front upper wishbone and E0124 through the rear . You can use a 3.05mm and 4.05mm reamer to make movement nice and free. Make sure not to over tighten the nuts on the pivot pins (leave 1mm gap).

6. Step 12: Seal the outside and inside edges of the front and rear carbon shock towers with a thin super glue to increase there strength. Insert a washer behind the top 3x12 shock tower fixing screws for extra strength.

7. Step 15: Trim the excess thread down of E0826 after fitted through E0318. Use thread lock on the 3x 8 screw into the steel bush C0801H.

8. Step 26: Be sure not to over tighten the 3x28mm screws, make sure the brake cams move freely.

9. Step 27: Use thread lock on the 3x6mm screws to fix down the side guards.

10. Step 35: Make sure to protect your receiver and battery pack from vibration with foam packing.

11. Step 37: Use thread lock on the 3x8mm screws into the linkage balls H0867.

12. Step 45: Pour some silicon oil in the shock body before inserting the shaft, this will prevent the seals from damage. We recommend only 33mm shock length is required.

13. Step 50: Use silicon sealant to fix in the 3mm sn3 nuts to prevent them from falling out if the wing is removed.

We believe following the above information will obtain you getting the maximum performance from your MBX-6.

Happy Racing.

n.e.r.d

iTrader: (6)

May i sidetrack abit,
I'm intending to get the Ninja JX21..

To those using the JX21 engine,
I've both the FLS and EB Mods pipe, and i don't want to get another pipe for the JX.
If i'm not wrong, Savoya used the FLS pipe with his JX. there must be a reason for it eh?
Likewise in ExtremeRC mag Jan09 they tested the MBX6 with the JX21/FLS combo..

EB Mods pipe works well with the V-Spec, and with the JX being an OS mill, i'm wondering how the combo wld fare..

comments anyone?
Thanks in advance!

back to the thread,
i've got a question regarding the shocks/springs..

what would the effect of using a lighter spring and lighter oil have on the car, other variables being constant?

reason i'm asking is that i read somewhere that cos the X6 is a lighter, we need not use such a heavy spring or oil..
i'm thinking of goin down to 400 mugen oil all around with one softer on the springs. (9.0T front and 10.0T rear)

lastly, in scott hughes setup sheet, it's stated that he used medium springs..
what's the spring rate?

thanks again everyone!

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

The EB Mods pipe should work great on the JX-21. My guess is that Savoya uses the FLS pipe on the JX-21 due to the increased run time and very linear power band that the pipe has. It makes less Hp than an OS 2050, OS 2060, Ninja JX 2042 (same as OS 2060) or the EB Mods pipe thus why the longer run times.

When I tested the Ninja pipe on my old GRP .21 I was able to get an additional 30 seconds of run time than with a 9853, MSR1005, etc that made more power.

Timox

iTrader: (5)

I have a question for those that are going lighter in the shock oils and springs.

How do you stop the car from bottoming out on the bumps ? If you go lighter oils bigger hole pistons and lighter springs it would bottom out everywhere unless you run on super smooth tracks like 1/10th electric tracks ?

I have a theory about the car being bouncy in the bumps. I think the car is too soft in the suspension and the bounce is because the chassis is bottoming out on the ruts thus kicking the rear end up.

I think the shocks need more high speed pack. Small hole pistons and light oils.?

Any thoughts

W.E.D.Jim

iTrader: (17)

Some MBX6 bodies just mailed out, going overseas to Norway!

...Jim
W.E.D.

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

Man that is some awesome hello kitty!

hambydsgb

help please, I have been searching and reading for like 2hr and cant find the list of the parts from my 5 that will carry over to the 6 please tell me the page it is on, or website i know i have saw it some were.

jpz_67

iTrader: (57)

Theres not a whole lot of parts that carry over. Off the top of my head keep all clutch parts, rear camber links, fuel tank posts, spur gears will work just wont be lightened. Theres not too much.