cheesecake

iTrader: (27)

looks like you found your self a good setup. another way to calm the rear end down is to drop the lower tie rod link on the shock tower. i did that on my rc8 and it planted the rear end alot so the car wasnt as squirly

OCMACE94

iTrader: (4)

What kind of adjustment can you do to the front end to keep from getting squirly at the beginning of a straight coming out of a turn? My only recourse now is to let off and jab the throttle a bit which takes away lap time.

speedy2

iTrader: (1)

if you use front toe out at the fr/fr inserts
like 0.25 out or 1 out like the arr evo
settle the toe out at the front wheels to the minimum
or 0.25°
and put in more rear toe-in till it stops being squirly

you can also try 4000 in the center
or more caster, clips in front of the upperarms

benchemist

Any idea on how the Caster BB shocks are for length compared to the Stock EVO shocks?

Any word on when the OCM BB are gonna be made, or are they still vaporware as far as the general public are concerned?

vnmsgt

iTrader: (2)

I have both the Caster Racing BB's and OCM Evo stock shocks in stock and here are the differences in length. These lengths are comparing buggy shocks top to bottom

Caster front = 4.0"
OCM front = 4.75

Caster rear = 5.25"
OCM rear = 5.75"

However I do have in stock the new TQ racing SX 16mm big bore buggy shocks and here are there dimensions

SX8 front = 4.50"
SX8 rear = 5.50"

Hope this helps.

vnmsgt

iTrader: (2)

Also I found out today for a fact the Caster Racing K8T Lower A-arms will work perfect on a OCM truggy. I knew they fit but never ran with them. Pooldoc who posts here informed me today that he has had no problems at all and has been using the Caster's on the OCM truggy. The droop screws line up perfect with the chassis and the OCM swaybar and mount are in the same spot and fit perfect. With the mugen arms you cannot use the OCM swaybar, mount is wrong and droop screws are in a different spot. So know you guys know you have some arms to use to continue running the truggy.

manynitros

iTrader: (38)

My guys are looking for a few Practice Bodies for their OCM Kaos'
I need a few so PM me with pics please.

vnmsgt

iTrader: (2)

Pics of new clear bodies??? I only have one new body left for a OCM buggy. Mugen bodies will fit from proline or JConcepts.

manynitros

iTrader: (38)

No, I don't need pics of new clear bodies, I am pretty familiar with them thanks---lol.
I have plenty of NEW Bodies, just looking for some practice, junker, messed up, abused practice bodies for practicing. I know the Mugen fit, but no one around here has any to spare.

manynitros

iTrader: (38)

Thank You to all who helped. I was able to score 8 usable bodies so far. Still could use a few more...

katjim00

iTrader: (8)

Gigi thanks for posting the setup over here. I don't make it to this forum much. As for using the super sized shocks, to be honest I think the mugen shocks are more than enough. They are consistent and cheap to get now. To each their own, super size shocks is the new trend.

You got any video of the caster truggy turning really tight. We have had maybe 3 in the area and none turned at all on a track. Did you do some dremel work to the front hubs or is it all stock. Just curious really, if it was accomplished by setup then I can help the people if they still own them.

katjim00

iTrader: (8)

vnmsgt

Since you have caster and ocm can you tell me if the bulkeads are really close. I don't feel the ocm bulkheads are molded just right and thought the caster might be a direct drop in. That is providing that you don't have bearing fitment issues with the caster one. If not I will go the mugen route and modify the chassis holes.Thanks

vnmsgt

iTrader: (2)

I will see if the bulkheads are close. I know the chassis holes for the bulkheads are identical, I have both. I also know the diffs should fit too because Mugen diffs fit in the caster and in the OCM so that should be fine. I will see if I can come up with some video or something for you. Only thing I have done is dremel out the inside of my A-arms to clear the front knuckle at full steering lock. The Stock A-arms are pretty wide in that area. Mine did turn very well before that though and it should be in the setup. I actually have Alan Burtons old Truggy and I have done nothing to it except add servos and motor and my Caster Steers sharper than it.

One tip for your friends with the Caster's, you cannot run full droop in the front arms, they will bind when steering at full droop, like under acceleration out of a turn or something. Set you friends trucks on a stand and with the truck off turn the wheels all the way to one side. At almost full droop they will bind and not want to turn all the way, now turn in the droop screws little by little and all of a sudden it will be as free as can be and the knuckle will touch the inner part of the Arm. That is where you want to set the droop. Steering will increase like crazy this way.

katjim00

iTrader: (8)

We have been using the engine mount screws from the ocm as droop screws. Cut a notch in the threaded end for a flat head and install them from the bottom of the arm. The huge flat head will not wear your chassis so your droop never changes.

skeller

iTrader: (11)

Great idea Jim.

Are you running a Caster or still the OCM?