maximugen

All it is doing is moving the shock out on the arm... and to my knowledge, that geometry change would add more side bite to the tire, by giving the shock absorber a leverage point further out on the arm.

Can anyone confirm that?

pracy

iTrader: (2)

Tony,

You heard of this problem before? i cant see how having more torqueing available would cause a problem if its been tightened in a cross pattern properly...?

cheers

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

First time I've ever heard of a problem. If the conical gear is not flush to the cup it will not mesh correctly with the pinion gear. Myself and dozens of others I know use longer screws (12mm, 14mm or 15mm) and haven't had an issue. After you set the diff in the case with the pinion, you should tighten the four long screws (3.5 x 30mm and 40mm) without any shims and check the gear mesh. Then open the diff bulk cases back up and and install the 0.1 x 15.9mm shims to the outside of the 8x16mm bearigs either pushing the conical gear towards or away from the pinion gear until the mesh is perfect. The number of shims and where they go will vary. If you use one or two gaskets it'll change the mesh. Right now I am using two gaskets, cups sanded and 15mm long screws.

On another note, when you thread the 3x12mm cap head into the cup to pre-thread the hole, if it doesn't go in all the way and bottoms out, then the hole may need to be drilled out a pinch due to variances in the molding process of the plastic. You can use a 2.5mm drill bit or a 3/32" drill bit to drill the hole a pinch deeper. Or, you can just use a 3x12mm flat head instead of the 3x14mm or 3x15mm flat heads.

Best regards,

Loop&Roll

Tony, do those brake pad springs work with the thinner Racers Edge type brake disk or do you need to use the thicker Chunder Tigre brake disk.

Cheers in advance...

Vsfriedmugan

hey Tony,

was wandering why you do not include screws part#smg3.5x30 or smg3.5x40
in your screw kit.... the screws for the diff boxes....bought one from carolinasrc....

Vsfriedmugan

you wouldnt happen to know were i could pick them up would you....

FrankBlack

You cant buy em.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

go talk to a Losi Truggy guy at the track and Barder with him to get some of his...Guarenteed any Losi Truggy guy WILL have spare arms and probably would let u buy the tabs from him.

Vsfriedmugan

ill check it out!!!!

thanks
val

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

I don't use springs. I use the thin o-rings in between the calipers wrapped around the center diff carrier and then hook the o-ring to the back of the threads poking out the back. They should work with the Racer's Edge discs too. They are very thin o-rings like the ones on a carb insert.

Best regards,

TonysScrews

iTrader: (13)

Hi,

I don't include the 3.5 12mm, 3.5 x 16mm, 3.5 x 30mm or 3.5 x 40mm screws that are on the buggy or truck. I only use Grade 12.9 balck oxide alloy steel machine screws in my kits. The 3.5mm flat head countersunk screws are not available in Grade 12.9 let alone in those long 30mm and 40mm lengths. The shorter 12mm and 16mm screws that hold on the hinge pin supports are machine screws but the longer 30mm and 40mm screws are a course thread screw.

I do however offer a MBX5RT+ screw kit that replaces the 3.5mm course screws with 4mm machine screws. But you need to modify your bulk diff cases and your hinge pin support plates. You also need two 4mm countersunk washers for the lower front block. My dealers do not stock the "+" kit as I don't want them dealing with any customer service questions about the kit. I have detailed instructions on the plus kit. I mention the details of the plus kit on my website and warn that with the modifications that only the advanced hobbyist should use the kit (basically you need to be ok with the drill bits and modding of parts).

Best regards,

pracy

iTrader: (2)

Thankyou all, and Thankyou Tony.

I have some Dow 557 on order

I have a quick couple questions with pics attatched to make them a bit easier for me to explain. I had it apart ready for the longer screws for the diffs and new ceramic bearing going in and i have a couple questions that poped up.

I thought when i pulled the center diff out a week or so ago it must have leaked at the gasket. But after pulling the other diffs out it looks like its leaking from the end. Does it look like it to you? I havn't cracked them open to see if they are low but there is oil everywhere on the outdrives.

Also, I didn't use any shims on the diffs. I thought they were to take up the slop on the diff housings pushing the bearing tight. Though are they really to hold the outdrive out at a certain distance so i would have a constant mesh amount?

If they are only to take out the slop in the diff housing and only hold the bearing what stops the outdrive from sliding in and out changing the mesh inside the diff?

With a new buggy how many shims should be used? the bearings sit nice and tight inside the housing but the outdrive at the back end of the diff as pictured has about 1-2mm play.



Next question. How tight should i have the drive shaft onto the spider gear?
I have it pushed on all the way while hold the spider gear in as well. there was a bit of metal dust under the diff housing when i removed it which made me think i might have it wrong? when i hold the drive shaft i have no play in and out of the housing.



One last simple one.
Should I have had spare wing mount washers in the kit or did i miss using 2 of the washers somewhere? I am only use 2 out of 4...



Thankyou all!!

I have coming longer screws from TonysScrews.com, Ceramic bearing for everything, new oils, and some lubes can't wait to see it roll!

cheers!

slow coach

Hi Pracy

To try and answer your questions

It doesnt look like the gaskets leaking but as you say the other end, when you build them do you grease when assembling that end, you should grease inside the metal part of the diff case plus the outdrive shaft that goes in as well also grease under the large washer (not lots) and around the o-rings especially, if you look through theres lots of info for building diffs that wont leak in this thread.

dont worry to much re shims i never used to shim mine at all and never had a breakage, i now use 2 shims to open the gap making the diffs much freer it makes a big difference placing 1-2 shims the other side of the crown gear boy does it spin now, the UK mugen driver i spoke to recently said you can run the diffs very loose on the mugen as you will be hard pressed to break the gears

I do the same as you push the pinion gear in then push cvd on and then tighten down so your good there, perhaps allow a small gap for a little play between bearings and cvd.

I think you only get the 2 wahers for the wing in the kit but its been a while and i could be wrong.

HTH

pracy

iTrader: (2)

Hi

Thankyou for your reply!

I only grease the outdrives as in the manual. If i grease the outdrive, o-ring and shim will it stop this leak?

From my point it looks like it leaking from the o-ring but i remember Tony saying a lot of people think that where its leaking when actually its coming from the gasket.


Would a over fill be the cause? I only fill to the joint where the two spider gears cross over but its hard to judge with thick oil taking long to settle.
Can you guys give me all the tips for stopping the leaks..

Sand the diff cups
Longer screws
single gasket
Grease outdrive, o-ring, shim with Mugen super grease

anything else?

As for the shims, where exactly do you use them? between the bearing and the end of the outdrive? like in the manual. so you are opening the unsealed ring and pinion gear is that correct?

Do you use any shims to tighten/loosen the gear set inside the diff? thats where i have some play back and forth.

Thankyou!

slow coach

I only grease the outdrives as in the manual. If i grease the outdrive, o-ring and shim will it stop this leak? it will help

From my point it looks like it leaking from the o-ring but i remember Tony saying a lot of people think that where its leaking when actually its coming from the gasket. that is also the case but it does look like you are the other end

Would a over fill be the cause? I only fill to the joint where the two spider gears cross over but its hard to judge with thick oil taking long to settle.
Can you guys give me all the tips for stopping the leaks.. overfilling will force the excess silicone oil out somewhere just go level with the cross pins then turn the gears a bit to help it fill all the holes let it settle then top up if needed

Sand the diff cups
Longer screws
single gasket or double if you sand the diff cups
Grease outdrive, o-ring, shim with Mugen super grease

anything else?

As for the shims, where exactly do you use them? between the bearing and the end of the outdrive? like in the manual. so you are opening the unsealed ring and pinion gear is that correct? yes thats it slide them over the outdrive so they are flush with the bearing

Do you use any shims to tighten/loosen the gear set inside the diff? thats where i have some play back and forth. no but by doubling gaskets you will free these gears up as well



forgot to mention you can get slightly bigger S5 o rings 5x1.5mm instead of the kit 5x1mm this will give a tighter seal between the oring and outdrives at the expense of drag of course but they do work