mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

standard c6 with 8mm venturi and stock mbx5R clutch can go 8+ min driving like a mad man (more with heavier springs and more when you dont drive crazy)...i will admit it can be a handful but its driveable. i like it better than my nova 3 port (gets about same run time) and it can run faster times than my s7 as it has more grunt to get through the infeild.

flatspunout

iTrader: (38)

Hey everyone, I'm not a Mugen owner but I do run Mugen shocks on my buggy and I was hoping someone could help me out with properly filling/bleeding them. Thanks!

-rocky b

mugenlife

iTrader: (4)

the caps have holes and the bladder at the top pushes the access out the hole. only thing i do is try to make sure there isnt any air in the shocks if im changing oil

flatspunout

iTrader: (38)

So I just fill them to the top, screw the cap on and work the shock to push the excess out? That sounds way too easy...

-rocky b

o.s. power

iTrader: (14)

not even, just fill them to the top and screw the cap on tight, all the excess oil bleeds out the hole. Just make sure the bladders are not ripped or pushed in.

Mike Elam

iTrader: (6)

i fill mine up flush to top, then push piston up to get air from under piston, might have to put a little more oil in afterwards. then screw cap on 2 turns then turn shock to 45 degree angle with the air hole pointing up. start compressing shock shaft in all the way. then slowly tighten cap turning the body and keeping the hole in cap pointing up and still at a 45 angle. keeping it up allows air out before oil. tighten down and ready to go. just make sure you dont over fill the oil to begin with could damage the bladder or cripple it while on the car running. I usually always go a touch under flush to cut down on wasted oil, keep it cleaner as im bleeding air, and make sure I am not overfilling it.

Turbine_au

iTrader: (6)

Went to replace a broken arm and noticed that Mugen have changed the front lower arms again. Slightly different moulding. Nothing that's going to add much strength, more like a change to maintain a constant wall thickness for a better final moulding.

nashrcracer

iTrader: (1)

one of the guys at the local track took some video from one of our series races in Burns, TN he jumped around a lot but I think I mixed up one good lap from it. Mugen Mbx5 Prospec with a dynimate 21c. I have more but I'm messing with youtube to get the quality right. still never got my setup for a loomy track. and this was that track. next track hard black dirt with lots of jumps and no straight.

just for reference I'm the white yellow and blue buggy just incase you didn't know my colors

http://youtube.com/watch?v=dlztQCOKmdc

BTW bumped after starting in 4th in the "B" and finished 2 seconds behind 6th in the "A"

icemandolmite

iTrader: (42)

any body have good base setups for rough tracks
tires are bowties,crimes m3 compound

icemandolmite

iTrader: (42)

also for an rb-s7 motor what shoes and springs should i use

Hrdluck13

iTrader: (8)

Use the Schwartz set up but go 350-300 shocks and
2.75/-1 rear toe plate.
I would say Mugen alum with 2 1.0's and 1 1.1 spring

icemandolmite

iTrader: (42)

for toe do you mean (-1/2.75 plate)

Hrdluck13

iTrader: (8)

no, 2.75/-1 anti squat

icemandolmite

iTrader: (42)

that would be the rear hingpin insert holes on the bottom

Hrdluck13

iTrader: (8)

you are right sorry... I am doing four tings at once here.When it is rough
2.75/-1 rear plate. Neuteral(middle) on the plastic inserts