Shane Racer

iTrader: (4)

The m2c rear toe plate will let you go 4deg.

Charles Godwin

iTrader: (2)

Cheers guys. Will get that ordered up. Looks kinda cool too and with it also helping brakes keep dry against fuel it's a win-win situation

Rear isn't exactly loose but on Wet Astro Turf (imagine racing on ice it's that slippy) it feels a bit loose. On Power on some dirt tracks it feels a tad loose. From what people have said about the Neo-Buggy event at Harper Adams (which i hope to compete in, in April) the track is very smooth and takes some time getting traction up. In the earlier rounds i would probably like to run a 4* toe block. M2C rear block, hmmm i'll have to keep my eyes open for this then . Anybody know where i can purchase this?

Cheers, Chaz

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Yikes , 50 bux.
But here's a link.
http://www.m2cracing.com/product.sc?...&productId=235

Heck, might just have somebody weld the hole for ya in a stocker and then redrill it at your desired toe setting...

MikeL.

How does the RC8 compare to the D8? I have both cars but havent ran either yet (indoor electric season here in Missouri) I am having a hard time deciding which one will be my car for nitro season. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I ran a Jammin last year and want to do something different this year.

SPEEDSKI

I have the RC 8 and I think its a great car. I dont and never have run the D8, but it is obviously a great car. The AE is definately more popular, parts, track help etc. The Big Bores are great and in my opinion if you race they are a BIG plus. The RC 8 has great steering, acceleration, and it jumps well.

Both are great cars, so it comes down to your choice. My only recommendation would be to give wahtever car you choose atleast 4-6 months of racing to dial and to get a full review of what the cars characteristics are. With any car, with time you will learn the in and outs of and by then you should be running solid.

franklucas

iTrader: (8)

+1 speedski rc8 i love the way it handles and accelerates never driven a d8.

Brandon Powell

iTrader: (32)

Associated RC8 would have more parts availibility I would think. I've got 2 races on mine and love it. Also, AE is offering a free set of BigBores with a new purchase.


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=4552

8% new year discount . .


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=4552

Mark_Australia

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys setup question. RC8 FT still with the factory setup silver springs on std shocks and std oil weights etc - everything.

For a very rough track, what would you change first? (BTW I am not a good driver hahaha so a forgiving setup)

I find it a bit taily so am thinking about changing down rear swaybar as front is silver and rear is gold (fat) so maybe change to silver or black rear bar?

gkp5569

Firstly i would try raising the ride height if the track is really bumpy. what happens when the track is bumpy is that the chassis bottoms out reducing the effect of the suspension. if you raise the ride height you will have less bottoming out and get more use from the suspension this will make the car more stable. if this doesnt fix the problem try a softer oil in you shocks

hope this helps

Gary from darwin

Mark_Australia

iTrader: (1)

My ride height seems OK but I may raise it to see what happens.....

Dunno about changing to a lighter oil as then I will have not enough damping for the stiffness of the springs, leading to a chassis that wants to oscillate up and down after passing the bump???
Maybe black springs and go down 5wt on all the shocks if you think softer is the go?

franklucas

iTrader: (8)

i think its too late for the free BB's, i think you had to buy the RC8 by the 31 of december? I ordered mine on the 30th of december because that is what I was told?

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Mark I've tried the black springs and not liked them on any particular track, especially a bumpy one. I'd definately change the rear sway to a silver or a black. Try running the rear shocks in the inside holes on bottom if they aren't there already, and 5000/5000/5000 diffs. I would also recommend trying the harder bronze springs all the way around on the buggy. That's what I've found I like best on the bumpy tracks. This is with the stock shocks, not the big bores.

From what I've seen though, and felt when I drove others buggies is that the big bores really make the car feel better all over. Handles the track better and just feels like the car sticks better in the corners, and settled the rear down alot. This was on my buddies car, I still have the small shocks.

wstuart

iTrader: (117)

Ive heard decreasing droop all around can help through the bumps - helps the car kida skate over them - ive had luck with it

Mark_Australia

iTrader: (1)

That is interesting, somebody else said stiffer too... makes no sense to me but I'm told it works.
What oil are you running with bronze all round?

SirKarnage

iTrader: (123)

Have you tried the emulsion style shock setup? (cut bladders, drilled pistons, bleeder caps etc)
Unless we do alot of track prep before races, you wouldn't know it was a track except for the tubing..it was one of the first changes I made, and it helped tons