gabbyb3

iTrader: (5)

i jst got the rtr buggy and cant believe how much the pro and rtr are close together with a few parts being differnt{ chasis, shock caps ect} i did fry my stock throtlle servo , when i looked at it the arm and ball were at an odd angle...anyone got good setups? loose /loamy outdoor tight track??

infanterene

iTrader: (18)

Someone suggested that a non digital servo might solve my throttle servo problem. Does anyone have a suggestion as to which one?

I am waiting for a cen servo that I won on ebay for 20 bucks. Its has 140 oz of tq. I am thinking abouyt using that one just because I dont want to loose a high dollar servo b ut i dont want to try one that is junk either.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

I've been using a Z590 for a few months now, works well, and doesn't suck the battery dry like my digi steering servo...

infanterene

iTrader: (18)

I have gone through 3 z590's. Someone suggested I try a 8611a I have one but its kind scary to try a brand new 115 dollar servo. I think all the servos i have tried have been JR's. Maybe I should try another brand. I also have a Hitec 5945.

R40Victim

iTrader: (1)

If you set it up correctly, it won't matter what servo you use. Just as long as it has enough torque for braking

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

i havent cut the spring on my linkage and im useing the stock fuel line and im stil on my original servo after 3 gallons.
also, to thoes twisting their carbs. watch how much you twist them! my carb twisted on me one day and the barrel started to stick. i noticed it right away and fixed it.

Steve Walters

iTrader: (1)

When you cut your throttle spring so it won't bind, Make sure you cut it enough so when you apply the proper brakes, you can still pull the throttle rod out another 3/16" of an inch before it totally binds. This will also allow some room for torsional flex of the chassis, when/if the brakes are applied. Also allow 1/8" at full throttle too (Carb. slide) for flexing
These two setups are missed a lot........

Throttle servo at rest.



Full brake (Note the slight gap(s) between coils)



Full brake + 3/16" (For extra compression for Chassis flex)



Full throttle + 1/16-1/8" (Again chassis flex)



You also want to get your carb as strait as possible. (Prevent carb binding) I filed the end of the Diff plate to allow for more clearance. I took approx 1/8" off the diff plate. You also want to have at least 3mm gap between the Carb and the diff plate. (Flex) Also use rubber groments! I haven't loss any servos and I've been beating the hell of of it....

Hope this helps a little...

dirtracer1

excellent pics and post steve.....thanks.

question......on tech talk, the drake said that he doesn't use the rubber gromets......his he on to something? why would he do that if everyone else here insists on using them?

Steve Walters

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

Thats funny, because I remember reading a post a while ago (month or two)with him recommending them using them...

The main reason I use them, is my servos are Digital (HiTec 5995TG), and Digital typically don't like vibrations as much as analog servos do. Grommets hurt nothing and prevent potential damage. Why not.....

SupermaxxRich

iTrader: (16)

Adam may not use them but that doesn't mean running them doesn't help. I use to never run the grommets either but thought I would since hearing all these issues with the 8ight. My servo's have been good to me so far Grommets will help keep some vibration away from the servo plus also add some "cushion" for the servo from flex.....

dirtracer1

i agree with you guys....it makes sense to use them, however, over on techtalk and in the nitro forum, in the ask the drake thread, on page 181, post #2704, the drake plainly states that he doesn't use them and i was wondering why he'd do that.

he also says what you guys have been saying all along.....cut the spring off a little bit....either that, or cut some off of the ball cup.

anywayz......thanks again to both super and steve for the most excellent pics and descriptions/advice.

MonkeyWrench

Just for the record from my past experience, "Anybody running the JR590 or JR290 servo" These servos have been burning out since the introduction of the original LST a few years ago. I had several replaced by H.H. until I broke down and switched to quality servo. I think the major issues with the LST 1 was servos and Mach 26s. Anyway on another note anybody running a digital servo should make sure its a brushless coreless servo, these have a tendency to produce less heat when in a stalled position due to the fact there is no copper core with magnets. An analog servo responds at 30 times a second where as a digital servo works at 300khz therefore peak torque is obtained instantly 1 deg off center axis, that's way some say not to use digital servos for a throttle and brake servo. "They spend all their time at peak torque." Where as a analog has to build up to that performance as it travels. Anyhow A good high quality digital coreless should work fine.Besides that they can be forced centered while in max throw with out any damage.They just realign and selfcenter themselves. Steve Walters and I are running the same setups with no issues and we have around or close to 3 gallons in our 8ights. Epa and carb slide freeplay is the key to these things. Anybody feel free to correct me if im wrong.

MonkeyWrench

Im 100% sure Heat from these two sources has absolutly nothing to do with servo failure. I wouldnt spend any extra time here. Spend the time on proper carb alignment and epa adjustments. Trust me you will have to spend time on this. Just follow Steve Walters setup with a quality servo and you should be fine.

MonkeyWrench

About 2 years ago there was a bad batch of 590s that got out and were recalled by Horizon Hobby. Depending on how old yours are you may have had a few.

ridgewaybodies

iTrader: (42)

FYI, if you don't already know, there has been a running change to make a shorter ball cup. A couple other running changes include new revised clutch shoes(7075), servo horn inserts and I heard shock 0-rings.