Losi 8ight building and setup
#7471
i think u just need a washer....No your local hardware store will NOT have the proper size or thickness of washer u need....go to your LHS and buy some proper shims.
#7472
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
My WS7 came with a collet, but I can't get it to work with the Losi clutch. It moves my flywheel too far forward, and once you get the bearings and clutch bell on, the bell is too far forward on the crank.
I found a shim in my toolbox that I put behind the collet, but the only way I can use that and still get clutch bell endplay is to go without any shims anywhere else on the clutch setup. Will this cause problems for me with a bearing sitting right on the clutch nut? Will I need to go get a proper, thinner shim?
I found a shim in my toolbox that I put behind the collet, but the only way I can use that and still get clutch bell endplay is to go without any shims anywhere else on the clutch setup. Will this cause problems for me with a bearing sitting right on the clutch nut? Will I need to go get a proper, thinner shim?
#7473
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (9)
You need to use the Losi collet. The XXX-NT ones are the same ones used for as the 8ight's. http://losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSA9376
#7475
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Gotta use the losi collet - it's a different length to work with the losi flywheel.
Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?
If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?
If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
#7476
Gotta use the losi collet - it's a different length to work with the losi flywheel.
Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?
If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
Is the nut coming loss or the flywheel spinning on the collet?
If the flywheel is slipping on the collet, I suspect you are not getting the nut tight enough since the collet is a taper/press fit. Make sure you are using a crank locking tool so you can get the nut tight.
This isn't unusal ............
Hope you get it sorted
Rod
#7477
Tech Initiate
flywheel
Ok you need to use the Losi collet with a washer behind it,this should work,if not email James at Underground rc.com he ran a losi for a while with RB engines.Hope this helps!
#7478
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
I think I have it figured out. The finished product doesn't allow for very much clutchbell end play, but I'm hoping it's enough. I degreased and polished the collet, flywheel and crank, then put it together with the shim that seems too big. I used a really thin shim between the clutch nut and the larger bearing. I also had been trying to make it work with the screw at the end of the crank that was supplied by RB. I switched back to the Losi screw and cone type washer and it seems to be okay. But like I said, the play is minimal, but the flywheel probably isn't going anywhere without the crank.
#7479
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
By the way, thanks for the help, guys. It really is appreciated.
On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?
On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?
#7480
By the way, thanks for the help, guys. It really is appreciated.
On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?
On another note, how are you guys removing your engines from the quick change mount? I don't have a ball driver, so the only way is to take the cooling head off, or risk stripping out the screws. Do you guys have the appropriate size ball driver?
Rd logics is the ball driver's i use...they work like a charm.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7153
#7481
Does anyone make a different battery box cover for the 8ight yet?
It seems like one should be out by now.
I just got the Ballistic 2700L 5AA and I'd prefer not to have the corner of the cap sticking up. I have some extra caps and I was thinking about using epoxy
to join a short and tall together and dremel out the center of the lower one.
Sorry if its been covered
It seems like one should be out by now.
I just got the Ballistic 2700L 5AA and I'd prefer not to have the corner of the cap sticking up. I have some extra caps and I was thinking about using epoxy
to join a short and tall together and dremel out the center of the lower one.
Sorry if its been covered
#7483
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Here ya go. 8ight working on the surface of the moon, LOL. They hadn't watered since the week previous, I guess thinking they were going to get rain when Dolly hit further south. Didn't happen and it was super dusty. Thanks for the help on the clutch springs. Tight corners were the real problem, with it hitting so far up in the mid-range it would push every time I tried to give it throttle in the middle.
#7484
Tech Initiate
RCcrackhabit!
Have you removed the foam padding from bottom of redceiver box. I had to do this and dremel out the raised portion that the screw from the bottom screws up into to get mine to fit, but it will go in there.