Losi 8ight building and setup
07-07-2008, 11:52 AM
#7276
Tech Regular
The nearest LHS by me is ultimatehobbies. There competition kit is $400, where as the race roller is $515.
07-07-2008, 12:14 PM
#7277
Definitly get the Kit then, same exact thing plus you get the joy building the car, and you'll have a better understanding of everything if it breaks, and how to do maintenance, like change the diff fluids.
You can probably go on Losi's website and find the Race Roller setup if you want to start with that. The set up from the Kit was a little hard to drive
You can probably go on Losi's website and find the Race Roller setup if you want to start with that. The set up from the Kit was a little hard to drive
07-07-2008, 12:26 PM
#7278
07-07-2008, 01:13 PM
#7279
I went racing last week and mid way thru the race I popped the steering link ball socket. The one next to the tire. No biggie just had to pop it back on, but lost the race. I thought I read that someone made a heavier duty one/ non-pop one or are you guys installing a different one from a different manufacture or do you have a easy fix. Maybe a washer on the top or something? Thanks
07-07-2008, 01:45 PM
#7281
The heavy duty rod ends suck . they create more slop on the steering rack since they are shorter and they require smaller diameter screws . After trying a few methods that was listed on here and wasting $30 , I bought a set of the stock steering balls and put the hollow ones on the spindles in place of the solid ones . Put them in with the foot down and secure them with a cone washer and a screw while using stock nut . Worked ever since I made the change and no more pop offs .
07-07-2008, 02:52 PM
#7282
That sounds like that will work, however, I would suggest making some different size dowels and adjusting the front and rear ride heights seperately. Like Integra, I also use the AE ride height gauge.
I usually set the front height (behind the kick-up) lower than the rear. This should "pitch" the car forward. This allows the weight to transfer to the front under braking and helps the car turn in.
I usually set the front height (behind the kick-up) lower than the rear. This should "pitch" the car forward. This allows the weight to transfer to the front under braking and helps the car turn in.
07-07-2008, 09:28 PM
#7283
the nitro stuff was fun to try...but i put my 8ight on ebay. probably wont be in this discussion much longer.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Losi-8ight-1-8-s...QQcmdZViewItem
$450 buy it now RTR
http://cgi.ebay.com/Losi-8ight-1-8-s...QQcmdZViewItem
$450 buy it now RTR
07-08-2008, 03:28 AM
#7284
Yes, that's exactly how I do it.
I have multiply lengths and set the front separately from the rear. I run the front 1-2mm lower than the rear. Also look around, I know I saw somewhere somebody milled some out and engraved the size on them. Of course he is very proud of them $$$
I have multiply lengths and set the front separately from the rear. I run the front 1-2mm lower than the rear. Also look around, I know I saw somewhere somebody milled some out and engraved the size on them. Of course he is very proud of them $$$
I know, I know I can try this myself...just curious if anybody else had tried it. One time I tried 4 degrees of Anti Squat to get more "plant" exiting the corners, unfortunately it made the car very twitchy on off power steering
07-08-2008, 07:11 PM
#7285
Just curiors if you or anybody else has tried setting the rear lower than the front and if so how does it make the car react?
I know, I know I can try this myself...just curious if anybody else had tried it. One time I tried 4 degrees of Anti Squat to get more "plant" exiting the corners, unfortunately it made the car very twitchy on off power steering
I know, I know I can try this myself...just curious if anybody else had tried it. One time I tried 4 degrees of Anti Squat to get more "plant" exiting the corners, unfortunately it made the car very twitchy on off power steering
I just tried 3 degrees and totally didn't like it!
Went back to 2 degrees and its hooked up!
07-09-2008, 06:23 AM
#7286
Tech Apprentice
1. Upgrade to hd diff cups. "Ive been dealing with this since day one when the LST and Mayhem came out" and Ive found if you use anything less than 2000 wt you will be rebuilding them all the time.
2. Scribe a small line with a x-knife in the tiny piston screw when you add the thread lock this will give the threads more bite.
3. You need to reset your gear mesh. Run it loose real loose, Allow extra room for the flex. And use Avid revolution bearings.
4. You need to check your epa when the thing is at its hottest. Like After a long run.
Good luck
2. Scribe a small line with a x-knife in the tiny piston screw when you add the thread lock this will give the threads more bite.
3. You need to reset your gear mesh. Run it loose real loose, Allow extra room for the flex. And use Avid revolution bearings.
4. You need to check your epa when the thing is at its hottest. Like After a long run.
Good luck
i like my losi buggy but i am almost ready to sell it. for the last three weeks it has seen more pit time then run time. yesterday i blew two diffs. getting the hd diff cups tom any other suggest on diffs. the other problem for the last two weeks is shock shafts pulling out of body what the i lock tite the screw i set my drop limiters with calipers so the scocks did not pull all the way out. this buggy is starting to be nothing but a money machine. burnt up servo to and yes i had the epa set right and all the gapping throttle open 95% and no flex in tray when u were at full brake. love my 8t have had no problems at all with it is this buggy just weak or am i having a bad luck streak. have been thinking about getting 808 but i am a losi fan and do not wanna give up. if anyone can give me some help i would appraite it. like what i need to do to make this thing bomb proof. i am a ok driver ever race i have been in i have tqed or have qualfied 2-3 so i don,t drive it rough. just seems to fail me every weekend. heck yesterday had to finish A main with one rear shock other broke in main. o and clutch bearings every weekend this thing is blowing them never have blown one on my 8t what gives is there somthing u have to do? should i get hd diff cups in all three diffs? this thing breaks one more time somone is going to get a good deal on a nice buggy
07-10-2008, 01:33 AM
#7287
1. Upgrade to hd diff cups. "Ive been dealing with this since day one when the LST and Mayhem came out" and Ive found if you use anything less than 2000 wt you will be rebuilding them all the time.
2. Scribe a small line with a x-knife in the tiny piston screw when you add the thread lock this will give the threads more bite.
3. You need to reset your gear mesh. Run it loose real loose, Allow extra room for the flex. And use Avid revolution bearings.
4. You need to check your epa when the thing is at its hottest. Like After a long run.
Good luck
2. Scribe a small line with a x-knife in the tiny piston screw when you add the thread lock this will give the threads more bite.
3. You need to reset your gear mesh. Run it loose real loose, Allow extra room for the flex. And use Avid revolution bearings.
4. You need to check your epa when the thing is at its hottest. Like After a long run.
Good luck
+1 on all the above
plus
Make sure the 4 diff screws are hella tight!
For some reason the Losi diffs leak if they aren't HELLA tight!
1 added bit of safety for me is that I replaced the center diff with an aluminum one. It seals much better too!
Just added peace of mind for me since I nuked the last one I had....
So if you have the stock or even the HD diffs.... Fill them up with oil assemble them as usually then let sit on a table overnight... There will be a wee bit of leakage... Retighten the screws and repeat for a couple of nights or until there is no seepage in the morning!
