Losi Truggy
09-07-2008, 08:20 PM
#1591
http://www.losi.com/Products/Support...rodId=LOSA0802
Here ya go. Click on Instruction manual Part 4. Then scroll down to 3 pages from the bottom. This is the stock RR setup. They don't have a direct link to it. Also in this section of the manual is all the tuning info you need.
Here ya go. Click on Instruction manual Part 4. Then scroll down to 3 pages from the bottom. This is the stock RR setup. They don't have a direct link to it. Also in this section of the manual is all the tuning info you need.
09-07-2008, 10:06 PM
#1592
who is the Losi team manager these days?
09-09-2008, 03:25 PM
#1594
09-09-2008, 03:32 PM
#1596
typically yes.....But some guys run return springs....which i dont advise....so i was just checking......but it'll depend on how u have the throttle set-up....u can always add a stopper on the back side to tighten up the spring if its not long enough.
09-10-2008, 06:56 PM
#1598
What I've found works great is the little tiny rubber bands in the women's section of hair products at the stores. They are so small and when you put one or two around your carb, it works better than most throttle return springs. They stay out of the way, don't wear out, and they come in packs of like two hundred. Plus they're easy on the pocket book.
09-12-2008, 06:34 AM
#1601
Sorry RJ I don't have an engine in my T right now.
For the steering what have you checked so far? Remove servo horn to see if the steering works smooth by hand. If there is tight spots or resistance, start taking the steering apart one section at a time. There isn't a known problem in this area so it might be dirty. The one thing that has bit newer drivers is the servo saver adjusting nut on the bottom of the right hand steering post. If the nut backs off it will rub on the chassis and lock up your steering.
At my last race I found my end link to be very dirty and the plastic rod ends were super tight. It was bad enough the steering was something I'd never experienced before. So I lightly squeezed the rod ends to free them up. This is done in electric racing also to free up the ball cups a bit when new. After a few times of doing this with the T, the steering got back to 100%. So maybe check these two things and see if that helps.
For the steering what have you checked so far? Remove servo horn to see if the steering works smooth by hand. If there is tight spots or resistance, start taking the steering apart one section at a time. There isn't a known problem in this area so it might be dirty. The one thing that has bit newer drivers is the servo saver adjusting nut on the bottom of the right hand steering post. If the nut backs off it will rub on the chassis and lock up your steering.
At my last race I found my end link to be very dirty and the plastic rod ends were super tight. It was bad enough the steering was something I'd never experienced before. So I lightly squeezed the rod ends to free them up. This is done in electric racing also to free up the ball cups a bit when new. After a few times of doing this with the T, the steering got back to 100%. So maybe check these two things and see if that helps.
09-12-2008, 06:41 AM
#1602
09-13-2008, 01:35 PM
#1605
rjs--Make sure you aren't holding your radio too close to the vehicle when checking over stuff. Even with Spektrum systems you can get little glitches when the radio is too close.
Sounds like you need some small adjustments on the linkages. Check the servo horn is not rubbing on your servo. If so use a small #4 washer to raise the horn up. Use a throttle return rubber band or spring that can pull the carb closed if you shut your radio off. This alone will help with servo centering when letting off the brakes. The linkage length from servo horn to the carb might need shortened/lengthened.
Then move on to checking your servo gears inside of the top half of the case. Many servos use one plastic gear, even when they are labeled as all metal gears. And this protects the electronics in most cases, for those really nasty sudden stops from WOT. So this plastic gear might have some damaged or worn teeth. They are very, very tiny teeth too, so look closely.
Maybe these suggestions will help.
Sounds like you need some small adjustments on the linkages. Check the servo horn is not rubbing on your servo. If so use a small #4 washer to raise the horn up. Use a throttle return rubber band or spring that can pull the carb closed if you shut your radio off. This alone will help with servo centering when letting off the brakes. The linkage length from servo horn to the carb might need shortened/lengthened.
Then move on to checking your servo gears inside of the top half of the case. Many servos use one plastic gear, even when they are labeled as all metal gears. And this protects the electronics in most cases, for those really nasty sudden stops from WOT. So this plastic gear might have some damaged or worn teeth. They are very, very tiny teeth too, so look closely.
Maybe these suggestions will help.