CrAzYoNi

Thunder Trail,
- My motor didn't got warmer than 60c, I've added the temperature sensor ;-)
So no need to cool it, yet! as I didn't do any upgrade to the model.

- It does look like the front tower shock have 3 different adjustment options.
But when you take the front shock out, you can see that the middle hole (default option) has some kind of ring inside of it, which I failed to take out.
Also the middle hole is not slick but "screwable" while the other holes are slick - my guess is that you should not move the shock - in addition as you said, there are no option to play with the arm, so I feel that we should not adjust the front or rear shocks.

- I think that I just landed incorrectly, or had too many of jumps with it.
I'm jumping about 3-4 meters high on a very sharp angle... so the car "flies" for another 9-12meters away from the ramp. I don't expect the arms to stay complete, but other 1/7 scale RC I'm using never broke an arm - was hoping it will stay like that!
The right arm broke just below to the internal pin.

- It seems that the servo-saver has some kind of defect as it touches the metal protector of the internal part os the front diff.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

The plastic shock tower has threads cut into it as you install the screws. I did not see a metal insert in mine.

That rubbing metal to metal is bad. I bet your front chassis stiffener and the top plate over the servo saver is giving which allows the chassis to flex and bend right behind the front diff. One good nose landing could do this. Need to try and flex it and see where it might be bending. A metal top plate and chassis stiffener would help.

Anthonytoyo

Thx about the info.i will set the bec to higher voltage and see how that works 😉

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Welcome. Please let us know how it works out for you.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

I did some searching and found two other people who had this problem. One had broken the top plate over the servo saver in a fence post fight. The other had the front chassis brace flex and the bolt on the top plate had backed out some from hard track use and a few crashes. Both had a slightly bent chassis.
These guys used a dremel to get more clearance by taking some material off the aluminum ackerman plate and the suspension holder. These parts are a tight fit with little clearance between them even on a new buggy. The Aluminum chassis brace along with an aluminum top plate seem to be the fix after chassis was straighten. Those parts are expensive. It really needs a 7075 chassis pan. I'm told there is one available for the the gas buggy. No word yet on a better chassis for the E buggy. Another expensive part for sure.

CrAzYoNi

I'll check into it soon! though in my-case.. this situation was since I've unboxed the model.
Which oil should I fill on my front shocks? I think I've got a leak from it, since box as well.
Would like to purchase the oil before I'll open the shock.

Also, today I've removed the "driver's seat" in the model body, it broke due to impact from the jumps.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Page 100 in the manual shows 40wt shock oil in front shocks and 3000 diff fluid in rear shocks. I have not had mine apart yet, but the stock oil seems close to perfect for track use. If you are bashing doing big jumps I would change front shock oil to 45wt. Also, if you have a leaking shock you may need new seals or other parts. Really no easy way to tell without taking them apart. I do suggest you look at the shafts closely and see if there are any burs that will cut new seals. Maybe your lower cap is just loose. I highly recommend using shock o-ring lube to keep seals from sticking and make them last a lot longer.

terrainx

Got my XLE this week and made my first run (2). I'm running the same genace 4S 4K batteries and they only get a tad warm after a 15 min or so run. Curious if folks have compared these batteries to others and if others give a bit more punch? My genace are brand new (first cycle/balance) so not sure if they will get better on subsequent runs. I'd be willing to spend a bit more on batteries if they gave more performance over the genace as I felt my first run power was good but I was not blown away .... (coming from 5th scale gasers). I was initially considering some 8K batteries but if you have to let XLE rest inbetween runs to cool down motor then does not make sense (see q about temp below)

In terms of motor temp -- mine was HOT after the first run so much so that I let it sit for half hour. I did not have my temp gun handy .. what temp's are safe with stock motor? I also found the kit to cut-off/stop a few times. When it did this i could still turn the wheels but was not able to go forward - not sure if other folks have seen this?

Anthonytoyo

Hello,

I measured the temps for the first time yesterday.constantly running on short grass till lvc.the 4s nano-tech 45c-130c 5000mah were 28deg.But the motor was at 47 deg (60...is like the max i want to have it) ,wich i think is reasonably warm.my plans to go couple pinion sizes higher will go bad without A Castle dual fan.

terrainx

Anyone experience their xle not starting without a push? When I turned it on it would jerk forward a few inches and that's it... I swapped another set of 4S's thinking maybe there was an issue with set A1,A2 but B1,B2 did the same. Only way to get it to go was to push it and once rolling it would GO. Once going it lasted the entire pack. This happened on two packs on a row. Curious if anyone else has seen this? I noticed it was beeping during this...

Anthonytoyo

Try calibrating your esc (with throttle trims at 0 and end points 100%)

terrainx

Will following these steps - do that?


Pull the transmitter trigger to Full Throttle.
8. Push the transmitter trigger to Full Brake, then return the trigger to center.
9. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to Full Right.
10. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to Full Left, then return the steering
wheel to center. The orange LED flashes once.
11. Remove the Bind Plug, then power off the receiver to save the settings.
12. Power off the transmitter.

Anthonytoyo

No,that's the binding procedure of the radio.
U need to turn on the esc while holding the "set up" button until you hear A beep.then release.....neutral,full throttle ,full reverse...is's explained in the manual.
I hope it works

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Big difference in quality of lipos. Higher C=rating is best no matter who makes it. SMC lipos are built tough and work great for the cost.

Unfortunately, this is a RTR buggy and the ESC and motor are RTR units which are good for most users. It's quick, but not the hot rod you want it to be. Same situation with the gas rigs, a motor upgrade is needed to be satisfied with performance. With electric, better lipos, higher KV motor, maybe a better ESC and now its fast. However, the run times will suffer. Just like gas rigs, it cost money to go fast.

There is a learning curve with electric. ESC cuts off if overheated or if lipos reach the low voltage cut off. When ESC cools it runs again. If lipo voltage rebounds it might run another lap before doing it again. Temp gun and volt meter is only way to be sure which one. Always run a motor fan. Cheap insurance. The stock ESC will not last long if it is overheating and thermal cut off is happening all the time. Must keep it cool. Suggest removing the drivers and deck for more airflow.


This normally indicates a bad connection on one of the 3 motor wires. It could be one of the ESC terminals or even inside the motor stator windings. Takes some investigating to find these issues. Suggest getting help locally from hobby shop or other RC guys who race electric. Maybe it will be a wire that can be soldered and repaired easy. Please share what it is once sorted out. It might be the first signs of ESC failure. So many possibilities we can't cover it all here.

Dave_S

iTrader: (1)

I had my hitec open to install temperature sensor, so figured I'd take a picture. This is different model hitec though.